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What ambient temps will it be running in?

I think you can rule out the engine. That sounds like a driveline problem. Check to see that there's not excessive play in the u-joints. Check the hanger bearings. Make sure the yokes on the rear end and on the transmission are tight. Also, has it been towed recently? Make sure the...

Can you tell where the vibration is coming from? Is it rpm or speed dependent? Manual or auto transmission? If auto, is the ABS light on? Oil leaks are not uncommon. The pan gaskets sometimes leak. More commonly the oil cooler leaks, it'll leak both oil and coolant. The head gasket also...

Look closely at the cruise control switch. The push button is marked "Mode". The set/reset toggle is marked a certain way too. I don't remember which is which. Anyway: 1. Turn the key on, after the “Hino” logo fades press the “mode” button repeatedly until “Maintenance 1” is displayed. 2...

That would be interesting. If it hasnt holed the block, a rebuild would be pretty straightforward.

Usually the head gaskets don't fail like that though. They'll leak coolant and oil from the right rear corner, and occasionally on the right center. Occasionally you'll find a broken head bolt on the right center. I can't recall ever seeing coolant enter a cylinder. Sometimes the graphite...

That sounds bad. They don't really make banging noises. I would be prepared to see piston damage.

They can be joined by friction stir welding. I think that's about it.

I can't tell you which one to buy, that's up to you. But I can't stress enough the value of a third party evaluation of any truck you are considering. It needs to be combed over very critically. Are you going to be doing any of the repairs yourself?

I'd check for the following updates: Blue ignitors DCU software ending in 0123 BCU software ending in 25F7. If it's from a dealer, or you can get it to a dealer, reflash the BCU to 25F8, and reflash the ecu to the latest version. You're probably wondering what the heck I'm talking about...

Run some oil samples on it. If that looks good, I imagine you'll be fine. Hinos are well built too. You just need to be aware of facilities on your route that know what to do with them. You haven't mentioned what year the Hino is.

Do you know which model? Some have a tendency to blow egr coolers, sometimes with alarming regularity. Aside from that, Cummins is hard to beat.

If it was towed to a shop that had no experience with them, then that's a possibility. Parts might start getting thrown at it. For example, I've never replaced the following parts on ANY Hino truck: Cam position sensor crank position sensor (the one I crushed during an engine swap doesn't count)...

Does it have a CAT C7? If so, yes, there are a plethora of better choices. Including steam engines and canvas sails. Here's a recent one.

You're right. My bad. I was thinking of 11-13 models.

Have you had the A8440/A8510 recalls done yet? If you haven't, you should. Call your dealer and give them the VIN. There may be open recalls.

Both of these threads are absolutely infuriating to read. Why? Because I know exactly what's wrong with both of them.

Hi there. I work on Hinos and other Japanese trucks for a living. Let's start with the negatives. Hino's dealer network is not nearly as well established as most other major brands. Almost all Hino dealers are also the dealers of more popular brands of trucks, and most of the money set aside...

It can only be reset using dealer software. I would have your ITV inspected and modified if it hasn't been done already, and have the exhaust brake reset to 12mm3. This will keep manual regens trouble free. If you want the ability to do a manual regen at any time, have them set the 'rental car...

What codes is it showing? Did this problem develop immediately after the turbo was installed, or did it run correctly for a while? It is rare for a turbo to cause a problem like this. I've seen twice where an old turbo with worn bearings seizes up and makes the truck stall, but that doesn't...