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I'm assuming that manual transmission trucks have traditionally been produced in higher numbers than automatics, hence the greater number of used diffs in that range. I looked up a Fuller transmission similar to the one in your truck, the 0.78 ratio in 6th gear would give a 70 mph engine rpm of...

The difference in the gear ratio between auto and stick is the reason you're getting both recommendations for the 3.73 and 5.86 rear end ratios. It HAS to be a stick truck he's mentioning. I'd be curious to know exactly which one so I could look up the ratios for it.

I'm kind of leaning toward that one myself.

Did some more digging. Gears were available for that rear in the following ratios: 2.80 A41490 1 41490 41769 2.93 A41158 1 41158 41657 3.07 A41494 1 41494 41773 3.21 A41496 1 41496 41775 3.42 B41164 1 41164 41715 3.42 (Q1785 CARRIER) B41530 1 41530 41715 3.58 B41498 1 41498 41777 3.58...

It looks like a 5.29, 5.86, 6.83 are available, perhaps more in that range. Looks like they might come in different axle spline counts too. I can't help you there, you'll have to talk to someone who's more familiar...

Around what rpm does this thing generally like to downshift? Like, when does the horsepower start dropping off? You'll want your target cruise rpm higher than that, so if you encounter a slight grade, it doesn't immediately have to downshift. Depending on the pump's setup (which can vary...

You weren't kidding. Do you have any idea the make and model of the rear axle? Now it's time to figure out what's available.

There are several ratio/rpm converters on the internet. Here's one: Engine RPM / Engine Speed Calculator There are several others that are more complex. You'll need to measure your tire diameter, and it'd be helpful if you know the transmission output gear ratio in overdrive. It'd be even...

If the threads in the sensor bung get mangled (and they will) you'll need a M12x1.25 tap to clean them up.

There is a recall out right now. It involves reflashing the ecu, setting the exhaust brake, inspecting the dpf, and replacing it if its damaged. If its not damaged, they will regen it to make sure it does it properly. They should have checked to see if this pertains to you. I imagine it does...

I'm going to assume that the rear of the dpf exploded a year ago, and it recognizes the lack of differential pressure. that in itself won't cause the lack of acceleration. Do you have a copy of a repair order with the codes on it? If not, call them and get a copy of the system protection data...

Check engine light on or off? This may be the brake switch thing I've posted about numerous times. I've described how to check them not long ago. I'm just disappointed that they gave it back to you like that.

Absolutely. They get so rusty that when you try to wire brush it off, basically 3/4 of the tone ring disappears. This is the OEM Meritor rotors, too. Or a big chunk of rust will pop off, hit the abs sensor, nudge it back a bit, then you get codes for the air gap being too wide. Sounds good...

Ray was grandfathered in, back in the days of steam power. He's only driven locally, pulling a trailer and backhoe with ragged dump trucks. It was never an issue. I can't get a cdl because I can't see a **** thing. Your concerns are valid though. We're on our way home. The purpose of this...

Well, made it through the first one unscathed. Aside from going too slow and getting an earful of airhorn.

What should I expect at a weigh station? I don't have a cdl. My friend Ray does. He's driving. We are in a Hino SG rollback on a harebrained trip from VA to MA. He's never done a trip this distance, never went through a weigh station, never filled out a logbook. We found a logbook and figured...