sprinter to ford/chevy
- Thread starter desdes
- Start date
Rlent..he said he bought 2 new ones in 05....that doesn't mean he bought 2... 05's
the following response is from cartalk.com, I think this guy hit the nail on the head, since I just found out the OIL LEVEL INDICATOR SENSOR was replaced 5 years ago:
"They could at least try to fix it by changing the sensor on the oil pan. Overfilling should not be the cause of the problem."
also, just joshing you, but are not all these dodge/freightliner/mercedes vans diesel?
and just joshing again, who can not read a dipstick? haha! (lol)
"They could at least try to fix it by changing the sensor on the oil pan. Overfilling should not be the cause of the problem."
also, just joshing you, but are not all these dodge/freightliner/mercedes vans diesel?and just joshing again, who can not read a dipstick? haha! (lol)
RLENT
Veteran Expediter
OVM .... that's true .........
OVM .... that's true .........
Its the little things that count.....so says the wife....
RLENT
Veteran Expediter
jjtdrv4u,
I pretty much had your post figured as troll bait when I responded to it
..... However I gave ya the benefit of the doubt: I figured you might actually be someone looking for an actual solution to a real problem. However, given your response (or lack thereof) to my post, I don't think that's the case ...... lessee .... you joined EO in May 2008 ..... and your first post in this thread was your first post on EO.
My guess is you probably have another screen name on EO that we all might be a little more familiar with.
Unfortunately there seems to be quite a bit of that thing going lately - in my estimation, while it might well provide some sort of weird entertainment to the single individual doing it, it cheapens the overall value of the forum - and it is likely why I find myself spending less and less time here as time marches on. EO would do well to monitor this kind of thing and eliminate it as much as possible. Just my opinion - YMMV.
Well, that statement is actually just stupid - think about it.
Yeah ? ..... so what's your point ?
Like I said above - I don't view what you are doing as "just joshing" .....
Anybody can read one ..... the question is not whether they can read one, but whether they can read it correctly.
First thing one would have to know in order to do so is whether the dipstick in the vehicle is designed to be read hot (red) or cold (yellow) ..... the yellow dipsticks were largely only available on vehicles that were part of, or designated for, fleet purchases (Fedex, UPS, DHL)
Reading a red dipstick when the engine was cold could likely lead one to overfill the vehicle with oil.
Of course, there are quite a few idiots out there that don't bother to read the owners manuals of vehicles that they purchase - often for rather significant amounts of money ..... I don't know whether you might be one of them or not ......
OVM - that question you asked me awhile back - yeah, I changed my mind - just not worth my time and effort. Sorry.
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greg334
Veteran Expediter
I can't say it any better..... how many don't get that the manual is written for a reason other than swatting wasps.
RLENT
Veteran Expediter
Talk is cheap - cite 'em if ya got 'em ......
Was it an easy fix ? What was wrong ?
A fluid leak is not unheard of at the socket where the electrical connector enters the transmission - the o-rings and the socket themselves have been thru a number of revisions. This problem isn't only on the Sprinter, but potentially any Chrysler vehicle which uses a NAG 1 transmission - which are used in a variety of Chrysler (and Mercedes) vehicles. In fact, it is so common that when I asked the parts guy at my local dealer for "an electrical socket for an NAG 1 tranny", he didn't even ask "For what vehicle ?" .... he just walked to the back and got it .... without even looking up the part number.
BTW, I replaced that part at 123K miles at my second transmission service - it wasn't leaking (I've never had a transmission leak on any of the stock plumbing or the transmission itself) - it just seemed that for a cost of $9.75 it might be a good idea to do it preemptively - and avoid a potential problem while out on the road.
There was also an issue on some vehicles with a fluid leak at the right front corner of the pan IIRC, don't remember the fix, as I never experienced it myself - mebbe a new gasket or tightening the pan bolts.
BTW, Daimler licensed Chrysler to build this family of transmissions (the NAG 1) here in the US (for use in Chrysler vehicles other than the Sprinter) - only problem was "the great American auto worker" really pooched it up - they failed to adequately seal the point where the transmission filler tube enters the case - which allowed water to run down the tube and contaminate the fluid .... which destroyed a fairly significant number of transmissions .... and caused a big recall .....
Having found out that turbo resonators (prior to rev. Q5) were somewhat prone to developing a leak at the seam under certain conditions (a common factor related to failure appears to being loaded near, at, or over GVW and being run hard - like climbing a significant grade, IOW being flogged) I preemptively replaced mine with a Riordan Turbo Eliminator - being as it's machined out of billet aluminum, it will likely never "go" ......
Yeah ... that can happen - parts do fail (like electric, in-tank fuel pumps)
Three years and 176K+ miles later, all my doors open and close perfectly - but then I don't slam them excessively hard either.
In the interest of full disclosure, my son has '04 (and an '06, and two '07's) which has been driven by himself and his driver's - it has a very significant problem with the driver's door - but it has literally been beat to death, they've let doors get caught by high wind gusts (which actually damaged the hinges and the skin on both the door and the body) - but hey - no big surprise - like I said: the truck has been beat to death. Ya can't fix stupid.
I have all my original cargo lights, none have ever fallen off and none are broken in any way, I've never replaced a single bulb in any of them (they are set to come on every time I open my rear doors), and the only time they ever blew fuse was when I was reinstalling one into it's hole after having just installed Reflectix silver-bubble radiant heat barrier - apparently the silver is aluminum (which is electrically conductive) - I inadvertently bridged the hot and ground leads going to the lamp fixture and created a dead short to ground .... and of course, it blew a fuse.
I have seen this once before - a guy I know bought a used Sprinter and it had that going on. Whether it was going on before or after he bought it I don't know - but I can say this: he was a former Fedex Home Delivery contractor who had ..... well, let's just say a very intense personality ..... the wife and I almost bought his route (but not his several year-old Ford cube van ...... which he had literally beat to death and was falling apart ....)
Had one of those go myself - after I inadvertently squeezed it too hard - and damaged some internal part - replaced under warranty at 4.5K miles. After that I learned something:
"Don't squeeze the freakin' bulb too hard !"
.... some folks are slow learners I guess ......
The control cables which manipulate the doors for the airflow in the HVAC can become somewhat stiff (mine are ... and have been for quite some time) and I have heard that tearing into the dash and applying some lubrication might possibly remedy the condition.
I have also heard that if one uses excess force to turn the dial (rather than turning it slowly with a moderate amount of force) that it is possible to have the control cables become disconnected from the little plastic tangs on the air routing doors and cause the condition you describe.
I don't have that problem however - as sometime ago in Life I learned that using more and more force until something breaks (and then blaming an inanimate object for my own stupidity) was not a good way to ensure that my own personal property had a long and trouble-free life. Your mileage may very of course.
How many miles ? What about it "blew" ?
How did the injectors leak into the engine oil (beyond the fact that the statement simply doesn't make any sense whatsoever, the exact explanation for this oughta be good .... I doubt whether it will be forthcoming however ....
)Eh ? Power Module - what "Power Module" ?
The Engine Control Module ? Transmission Control Module ? The Glow Plug Module ?
I don't what "Power Module" you are referring to ? Can't find it in my '06 service manual ...... or the '05 PDF part manual ..... enlighten me ?
Ahhh ..... yeah ..... I'm sure you are.
The only point you have made is that you are potentially hard on vehicles ..... and are possibly prone to blame the vehicle - rather than accepting responsibility for how you are treating or caring for it. Your rendition of "the facts" (as you see them of course) proves absolutely nothing.
BTW, my son also owns two late model GMC Savanna cargo vans - one of them, the older one - an '05 I think - had a complete transmission failure - at less than 75K miles, IIRC.
Just out of curiosity - you aren't a fleet owner by chance are you ? Or do you drive for someone ?
This '05 Sprinter you referred to having problems with - was it a vehicle you drove ? Or did you just have drivers in it ?
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RLENT.... You should be a service manager for Daimler! I can't help but tweak you guys when it comes to Sprinters. You and a few others seem to have them figured out and do a lot of work on these rigs on your own and that's a real good thing. I wish I had found you before a friend of mine started having problems with his Freightliner. Now he's paying down 18K after he just made his last truck payment. BUT, you just can't say that they are a good truck for people to get started in. If you buy brand new, you pay waaay too much... they have a warranty but with all of the down time, who cares. And when the warranty runs out that is when the real fun begins. Trannys and engines that if they don't out right blow up... they die a slow death with the owner picking up the cost to get the last weeze out of them before they do crap out. Then you get to spec out a new motor and trans because most cannot find a place to do a rebuild. If you are successful in getting a rebuild... it's much more than good old fashioned AMERICAN Iron. This is not to mention the endless list of little stuff that plagues those Sprinter critters. My record with Ford, no blown motors and the earliest tranny swap was at 265K Chevy, no blown motors, a tranny at 550K. With good PM these 2 brands run forever in comparison to any other van.
Dodge just don't cut it, though I have always been a Chrysler man from way back... the vans just don't have the guts.
Newbies, do a lot of homework before you buy and start with used NOT NEW. Stick with Ford or Chevy. This way, your maintenance will be way down, your payments, reasonable and if all else fails you can use the van for a new business.
Dodge just don't cut it, though I have always been a Chrysler man from way back... the vans just don't have the guts.
Newbies, do a lot of homework before you buy and start with used NOT NEW. Stick with Ford or Chevy. This way, your maintenance will be way down, your payments, reasonable and if all else fails you can use the van for a new business.
The biggest problem with Sprinters happen when people try to treat them and maintain them as if they are something other than a Sprinter. If you treat a Sprinter the same way you would a Ford or a Chevy, you're gonna have problems. There are some fundamental differences between American and European vehicles. Ignore those differences at your peril. Most people who ignore the differences have problems, and then blame the Sprinter rather than their own ignorance and failure to educate themselves. "THE MOTOR FRIED (DUE TO INJECTORS LEAKING INTO ENGINE OIL)" is particularly telling (not to mention really funny).
I'd be willing to bet that somewhere in the back of the mind there is an "Oil is oil, and 10W-30 is 10W-30 is 10W-30" mantra.
I'd be willing to bet that somewhere in the back of the mind there is an "Oil is oil, and 10W-30 is 10W-30 is 10W-30" mantra.
Jack_Berry
Moderator Emeritus
i find the ....doors do not close..comments interesting. was the truck overloaded and the unibody tweaked?
kinda wish he would answer rlents questions.
kinda wish he would answer rlents questions.
in the taxi biz we used old seat belt strap...one bolt and washer to door and fasten to body...pre-measured to keep the door from being flung open too far either from customers or caught by the wind....
guido4475
Not a Member
I was never a big fan of unibody vehicles.When i was 17, I worked at a place that heavily modified vans for the handicapped.It included literally cutting the floor or roof completely out, and raising the body 6 inches,and re-installing the floor and/or roof to give the extra height needed for the wheelchair lifts.These were brand new vans drop-shipped from the factory for the customer.Ford, with a full frame, was the easiest.Chevy, with the unibody, was a total nightmare.I used to drive a c-30 one ton chevy also for delivery for the local newspaper.Sundays were the worst.Fully loaded, front to back, side to side, top to bottom with sunday papers, I could actually feel the body twisting as i turned corners or went down the road.Eventually they went to fords.Give me a full-frame vehicle anytime.Stable.Sturdy.Reliable.built like a tank, and can a direct hit with very little major damage.I'll stick with my police interceptor crown vics and full-frame vehicles until no-one makes them, I guess.
guido4475
Not a Member
Where are you getting "G" from? my post says "C-30." and, yes, they are a unibody constucted van. I have cut up enough of them to know.
RLENT
Veteran Expediter
C series = pickup
K series = 4wd pickup
G series = van
P series = parcel delivery or step van
That's about how I remember it from when I was in the parts biz .... How about you Greg ? .....
Guid,
'zactly what years wuz these unibody GM vans produced? .... Musta been a pretty rare beast .... I sure never seen one .... Mebbe you talkin' Astro van or sumthin' .....
K series = 4wd pickup
G series = van
P series = parcel delivery or step van
That's about how I remember it from when I was in the parts biz .... How about you Greg ? .....
Guid,
'zactly what years wuz these unibody GM vans produced? .... Musta been a pretty rare beast .... I sure never seen one .... Mebbe you talkin' Astro van or sumthin' .....
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