Sprinter Cargo Securement

geo

Veteran Expediter
Charter Member
Retired Expediter
US Navy
i have a sprinter and l love it, i have e track down on both side, but not on the sliding door , also have rollers in floor that work wonders for loading and unloading, don't have to work at moving the load back and froce sides so easy

if you look in driver profiles for sept 04 you will see pictures of it
also able to put 4 pallets on \
and roller only cut 2" in height so not to bad
but for local works great

last big load i had on was 440 boxes and 2800, and just room to put hand truck on and close the door, pick up at the airport and they couldn't believe i got it on all on and when it off loaded at the customer turn in 7 pallets over 6' high

out loads a ford or gmc any day
 

Moot

Veteran Expediter
Owner/Operator
I would split the difference between the 14" and 26.5" or go above the 26.5 and run a piece of 5/8" x 6" plywood or hard wood. Bolt this to the verticles and screw the E-track into the wood.
 

Moot

Veteran Expediter
Owner/Operator
RLENT:
I would also add insulation to the walls. I use styrofoam board with a foil backing and Great Stuff expanding foam in an aerosol can for small cavities.
 

RLENT

Veteran Expediter
George,

Thanks for the reply.

>if you look in driver profiles for sept 04 you will see pictures of it

I'd love to see it - but I'm afraid I don't know how to get to the "driver profiles" section of EO that you are describing ........

It would be nice to see how you have it set up and the rollers. Where did you source the rollers from ? Have a link or part number ? You mention that they were great for local ..... I take it that is mainly what you run ?

I wasn't planning on putting any e-track on my door either.

>last big load i had on was 440 boxes and 2800

There's definitely alot of room isn't there ? :+
 

RLENT

Veteran Expediter
Moot,

>I would split the difference between the 14" and 26.5" or go above the 26.5 and run
>a piece of 5/8" x 6" plywood or hard wood. Bolt this to the verticles and screw the
>E-track into the wood.

Really ? Interesting ....... I assume that the reasoning is just from a positioning standpoint (e-track in relation to the load) .... because I would have thought that the heavier frame rail would have been the most sturdy place to hang it ...... just from a structural standpoint. Glad that I asked. Well, ok ... sounds like a good plan.

What do you think about running two rows of e-track on the sidewalls - one low and one high ? (the stuff is cheap .... at $15 for a 10' section) Any advantage ?

>I would also add insulation to the walls.

Yeah ...... ;) .... I'd been thinking about this ..... now would definitely be the time to do it.

I saw some pics posted by a guy over on the Yahoo sprinter group that had completely insulated his Sprinter using Great Stuff foam .... think he used a wire to cut it off flush. I believe he around $400 or $500 in foam. I like the idea of just using styrofoam board to fill in the major cavities and then using Great Stuff to fill in the small spots .... ought be alot cheaper. Maybe use some PL400 construction adhesive to hang the foam board up and then foam in around it with the Great Stuff.

I possibly have a line on a heater for the cargo area that I might be able to pick up fairly reasonable ..... not sure what brand or kind it is .... it's in an ex-FECC Sprinter that a friend bought.
 

Moot

Veteran Expediter
Owner/Operator
On my Chevy the center of the E-Track on the walls is at about 28" above the floor. I have modified 2 telescoping load bars, the light duty kind made for pick up trucks. These drop into E-Track sockets. I use this set up for securing drums. I run straps from the floor over the load bars keeping the drums from shifting.

I also have E-Track D-rings which are attached to the wall E-Track. Stretching a tarp strap between 2 helps to secure personal junk to the walls.

Running two sets of E-Track on the walls could come in handy but it will also add weight. Keep an eye on your weight. You will be amazed at how quickly a van can pork up.

Don't use Great Stuff to insulate the whole van. If you want sprayed on foam I'm sure an insulation specialist could do it cheaper than buying cans of foam. The Great Stuff works well for small cavities.
 

RLENT

Veteran Expediter
Moot,

Thanks - good data. Helps me get the picture as to how exactly you are securing cargo.

Right now I have a single solid Kinodyne load bar that fits a 96" wide trailer. I have to cut it down to the proper width for the Sprinter, drill a new hole and then reinstall and repin the sliding head. I'll probably pick up another one so I have two. I figured I would use these mid to high on pallets to keep the tops from shifting forward. I also have some E-Track D-Rings as well.

>Keep an eye on your weight. You will be amazed at how
>quickly a van can pork up.

Yeah, the four 10' sections of E-Track were probably gettin' close to 100 lbs. alone. Add another two ..... plus the plywood for the floor and it all starts to add up pretty quick.

>Don't use Great Stuff to insulate the whole van.

Nope, I wasn't planning on it - I'll use foam board to to fill the large areas and then fill the gaps around the edges and other small cavities with Great Stuff.

On cargo straps I was going to go with 2" Vulcan Ratchet straps from TruckNTow with snap hooks on the ends (or at least on one end) - to keep them from falling out while I'm trying to secure the freight. They have a WLL of 3300 lbs.
 

Moot

Veteran Expediter
Owner/Operator
I carry 2 straps with ratches and 4 straps with friction cam lock things. All straps have E-Track ends. I also have a 24' tow strap with hooks, a 12' chain with hooks and pallet tongs. I rarely use the tow strap but occasionally I have to loop it around a pallet or crate to get it to the rear.
 

RLENT

Veteran Expediter
Moot,

I was originally told that I would need three straps (at a minimum I guess) but it sounds like a couple more might be a good idea.

The chain and the pallet puller were on my list. Tow strap really wasn't but I have a couple of them lying around here and it's probably a good idea (for more than one reason) so I'll toss one on the van.

I have the removable E-track D-Rings .... plus the D-Rings on the lower walls .... and I picked up some pan D-rings for the floor (...... consequence of not knowing a load rating for the D-Rings on the walls - my dealer is checking with Dodge Technical Services for a number on those)

..... so I'm gonna go with snap or wire hook ends on my straps I think ...... that way I can plug them into either the D-Rings or the E-Track.

We just got back from Lowes where we grabbed some of that Dow 2" blue styrofoam (R10), 5 tubes of Loctite Foamboard adhesive, and about 6 cans of Great Stuff. I also grabbed a 4' x 8' sheet of 3/4" BC plywood which I had them rip into 9" wide lengths to mount the E-Track on.

A friend is cleaning up his (heated) polebarn tonight so hopefully I can get in there tomorrow and getting cranking on this in earnest. Crawling under the van in 18° temps just doesn't excite me all that much .... especially if I don't have to.:+
 

Moot

Veteran Expediter
Owner/Operator
RLENT:

I question your use of pan D-rings on the floor. I assume that the lip of the pan will be set below the top of the plywood so pallets don't snag it when loading and unloading. But another problem with those is when loading tanks, wire baskets and tubs with legs. The legs will get caught in the recessed pan. I haul alot of castings that are shipped in tanks with legs. Something to consider!

Good luck and don't forget to post some pics when complete.
 

RLENT

Veteran Expediter
Moot.

>I question your use of pan D-rings on the floor.
Fair enough.

>I assume that the lip of the pan will be set below the top of the plywood
>so pallets don't snag it when loading and unloading.
That's correct - planned on routing a recess in the plywood so that the top of the pan would be flush with the top of plywood on the floor .... although the heads of the carriage bolts that secure the pans would still stick up slightly. As far as where they would be located the plan was to put them on the floor, right next to the side walls. At that location they ought to be pretty much out of the way I would think.

>But another problem with those is when loading tanks, wire baskets and
>tubs with legs. The legs will get caught in the recessed pan. I haul alot of
>castings that are shipped in tanks with legs. Something to consider!
It absolutely is. Personally, I'd just as soon skip even installing them - it will be alot of work that I would just as soon avoid ..... if I could verify that the optional D-Rings that came with the Sprinter are adequate to secure a load. Since I haven't been able to get any info from DC and since only one other Sprinter owner has posted regarding their experiences with said D-Rings I'm uncertain on just how far to trust the D-Rings that came with the van.

When I met with the owner of the company he explained to me how they recommended (or had been) securing loads. Basically what they do is use two cargo straps - they come up low with one from the side and go across the front of a pallet and then go high and then over the front top edge of the pallet towards the back and down the side or back (not totally sure which.) The other side is then run the opposite of the first so that you have an "X" of two straps across the front of the pallet. At least that's how I understood it - which may be entirely incorrect. :+

Keep in mind I don't know that the vans they currently have even use E-Track ...... I was told that they definitely do use cast 7/16 eyebolts run up thru the floor, with a plate below to attach cargo straps to. At least 6 of them (3 per side) ..... not wanting to have eyebolts permanently sticking up thru my floor, I thought they recessed D-Rings in a pan would be a better option.

I will defintely post pics ... charging the battery for the camera as I type this.
 

geo

Veteran Expediter
Charter Member
Retired Expediter
US Navy
to see the rollers go to eo lifestyles and keep moving down until you find it

go to granger and get 2 18" wide rollers in 10' lenght and one short one about 3 ft
 

RLENT

Veteran Expediter
Thanks George, I found it.

Actually a very cool idea on the rollers ..... I'd imagine that ya would definitely want a forklight at the rear doors to "catch" things before ya tried to move anything. :+

I'm guessing that most of the pallets you pick up are pretty much intact, with the bottom boards all there. Even if they weren't I suppose it would be fairly easy to just slap down a pallet-sized piece of 1/4" or 3/8" plywood, set the pallet on that, and roll on ![B/]
 

Turtle

Administrator
Staff member
Retired Expediter
You'll find that for most loads, a single wooden 2x4 or 2x6 load bar across the floor, set inside of those 2x4 e-track fittings, will secure things just fine. Depending on the load, anything high or top heavy, next up is the e-track straps crossed over in the X configuration.

I've never used the D Rings in the van, nor have I ever used my e-track D ring fittings. So far, anything that I might want to tie off on a D-ring has worked just as well, and faster, using an e-track ratchet strap (of which I have four - two pair each of yellow 12 footers and 16 foot gray straps).

For barrels, side-wall e-track is very handy. You don't really need them ultra-secure to the walls like you would with them on the floor. Down the side, you'd mount them to that side rail using one screw along a row, instead of two screws (because, as you pointed out, the side rail isn't wide enough to have screws in both rows of the e-track). Then, where there is a vertical rail, or rib, that's where you'd put two screws into the e-track.

http://www.inlad.com/db_images/full/8835a50eed17ea25822d1f719dc0b686.jpg
 

Moot

Veteran Expediter
Owner/Operator
Great picture Turtle. From RLENT's picture I couldn't tell if it was possible to mount the E-Track on the main horiztonal and still be able to bolt to the verticles. Your pictures shows it can be done. I think this is the best way to mount one row of E-Track on each wall. Looks very secure.

I am a firm believer in E-Track mounted flush with the floor not on top of the floor. I use a 2x6 as a stop and then attach the straps in the first open slot in front of the 2x6. I then bring the straps over the freight and criss-cross them and hook them just behind the pallet and sinch it down. This should keep things secure in the event of a serious accident or roll over.


Geroge's roller system is great for the type of work he does. But for general expediting I'm not sure if it would be of any benefit. I have never had a problem loading or unloading. There have been times when I have loaded and unloaded 20 or 30 loose boxes and a roller system would have been nice. But for those few times and the rear of the van being only 100" away I'll just slide or carry the boxes.

Again D-rings in the floor sound like trouble.
 

Turtle

Administrator
Staff member
Retired Expediter
That pic's not my van, BTW. It's blatantly stolen from US Upfitters, the Inlad people at inlad.com. But it gave me the idea of how to mount mine in here.

I like the 2x6 thing with the e-track on it. Gonna do that. I need to take some updated pics of the van and post them here. I have 1-foot high sidewalls running the length of the van just inside of the wheel wells. Made from 1/2" PCB board. That gives me storage space, and protects the wheel wells from overzealous forklift operators. Between the walls, narrowest point, is 48.75 inches. Not a whole lot of room to spare, but then again not much sloshes from side to side, either. :)

Just inside of each wall I have a row of e-track bolted to the floor. Well, bolted to the original plywood deck that came with the Sprinter, and down through the metal floor. In between the e-track rows I cut a piece of 1/2" plywood for the decking. The plywood is actually 9/16", so it sits 1/16" above the top of the e-track. Skids never actually tough the e-track.

I've never felt the need to use D-rings. Ever. I do have a couple of e-track D-rings, but never used them. I felt so confident that I'd never use the D-rings that come with the Sprinter that I put those walls in place and use that area for storage, the D-rings are essentially covered up and I sometimes forget they are even there. More than anything, they are in the way of what I'm storing on top of them. hehe

I've just never run across a securement application where tying something off is gonna work better than strapping that puppy down with e-track strap. I'm sure I will one of these days, just hasn't happened yet.
 

RLENT

Veteran Expediter
Ken,

Question - is that your van in the pic ? No E-Track on the floor ?

I assume that there's two pieces of E-Track on that sidewall, given the length of the wall ?

>You'll find that for most loads, a single wooden 2x4 or 2x6 load bar
>across the floor, set inside of those 2x4 e-track fittings, will secure things just fine.
In all liklihood, for a pallet of some height and weight I would do the above .... plus add an aluminum load bar (2K lbs WLL) running side-to-side, in the wall E-Track.

I notice that the top row of holes in the E-Track appear to have a screw approximately every 10 to 12 inches. I think my E-Track is 12 gauge ... which is almost 1/8".

Maybe I'm being overly paranoid here, but given that the screw holes in E-Track will only take a 1/4" (or maybe 5/16" at most) screw I guess I just don't have a ton of confidence that if I am involved in a collision that with that few screws it's going to hold. And I won't have any sort of cargo bulkhead in the vehicle (at least initially, and perhaps permanently.)

>next up is the e-track straps crossed over in the X configuration.
Given E-Track on the sidewalls only in the picture I'm curious as to how exactly this is done ?

>You don't really need them ultra-secure to the walls like you would
>with them on the floor
The "them" in the above sentence refers to E-Track (and not barrels) correct ? I could see where that could be the case, since one one wouldn't want to tension much between the two side walls, like one might with a strap that's hooked into the floor.

Thanks for the picture and the feedback .... it helps to see what others have done.
 

RLENT

Veteran Expediter
Ken,

Thanks for the further elaboration. As you can see I posted a reply before your second post showed up. :+

>I like the 2x6 thing with the e-track on it.
I got some 3/4 BC plywood ripped to 9" wide - primarly because I felt that I wanted my screws securing the E-Track in a little bit from the edge of the board.

I'm thinking of going with the 1' sidewalls for storage as well. No sloshing is good. :)

The 9/16" plywood on the floor makes sense.

Moot,

Thanks for the description of how you run your straps (front to rear over the top of the load) .... this is really what I've been looking for .... an exact description of how ya strap down pallets.

And the Pan D-Rings will be going back. :p
 

Turtle

Administrator
Staff member
Retired Expediter
>Ken,
>
>Question - is that your van in the pic ? No E-Track on the
>floor ?

Not. Not my van. See my followup under Moot's. That's just a pic from inlad.com that shows how to secure the e-track to the walls. It's just a pic that came in handy when I was installing my e-track.

>
>I assume that there's two pieces of E-Track on that
>sidewall, given the length of the wall ?

Dunno. That looks like a short wheelbase Sprinter, so my guess would be one piece. :)

The e-track on my walls match that on the floor, which is 9 feet.

>
>>You'll find that for most loads, a single wooden 2x4 or 2x6 load bar
>>across the floor, set inside of those 2x4 e-track fittings, will secure things just fine.
>In all liklihood, for a pallet of some height and weight I
>would do the above .... plus add an aluminum load bar (2K
>lbs WLL) running side-to-side, in the wall E-Track.

I just add a wooden 2x4 across as a second load bar.

A 2K lbs WLL load bar is nice, but the walls of the van will give way long before the rating of the load bar gets tested. :)

>
>I notice that the top row of holes in the E-Track appear to
>have a screw approximately every 10 to 12 inches. I think my
>E-Track is 12 gauge ... which is almost 1/8".

Yes, it's 1/8" thick.

>
>Maybe I'm being overly paranoid here,

Yes, you are.

>but given that the
>screw holes in E-Track will only take a 1/4" (or maybe 5/16"
>at most)

It's a 1/4" screw. Holes are exactly 2" apart, center to center, and the rows of holes are exactly 4 1/2" apart, center to center.

>screw I guess I just don't have a ton of confidence
>that if I am involved in a collision that with that few
>screws it's going to hold.

The power of a few screws can add up quickly. (there's a joke in there somewhere, I just can't find it at the moment) In order for it to be a problem, the strain on the e-track will have to be enough that it will bend the e-track itself, and it will need to be very acute. Otherwise, all of the strain gets distributed evenly across all of the screws. In an accident, it's a sudden stop (like running into a brick wall) that you are the most concerned with, and that kind of a stop by it's very nature will strain each screw equally, regardless of where the strap fitting is inserted into the e-track.

>And I won't have any sort of
>cargo bulkhead in the vehicle (at least initially, and
>perhaps permanently.)
>

Me neither. Too often I need to get between the load and where a bulkhead would be, in order to properly secure the load. I also wanted the openness of not having a bulkhead. After living in a short wheelbase E-350 for so long, I wanted it to feel like Montana. I do have a permanent bunk built in there, and it acts as a partial bulkhead, even if it's only 21 inches high.

When I'm in doubt, I'll brace the load with the 2x4's across the wall, and also run an (two of them, actually) e-track ratchet strap around the 2x4. For example, picture a single barrel in the middle of the deck. I place a load bar forward of the barrel, between the barrel and the driver, with the load bar going from sidewall to sidewall. Back between the barrel and the rear door, I insert an e-track fitting from a strap into the floor on the row behind the driver, then run the strap over the top of the 2x4, then loop it back down under the 2x4 and bring it towards the rear or the truck, and insert it in an e-track slot 3 or 4 slots forward of where the other end of the strap is inserted. I do the same on the passenger side e-track row. Then tighten the ratchets until there is just a little tension on the wall e-track, but not much. Just until the ratchet stops. Too much tension and you'll rip the e-track right out of the walls.

What you have, when viewed from in between the driver and passenger seat, looks like I'm locked and loaded with a really big sling-shot. hehe

Corny, but hopefully that's a description that can be visualized.

>>next up is the e-track straps crossed over in the X configuration.
>Given E-Track on the sidewalls only in the picture I'm
>curious as to how exactly this is done ?

The X configuration if for floor e-track, not wall mounted e-track. Although, now that I think about it, you could do an X with sidewall straps. Attach a strap to the wall at the right rear and then to the left front, then one from the left rear to the right front. Then you have a hovering horizontal "X" above the deck. That would certainly keep a single barrel from sliding left to right, as the natural "V" in that X would keep the barrel more or less in place. Buuuut, I'd be wary of something like that. In general, you really don't want to use the sidewalls of a van as the primary load bearing contact point for anything heavy.

One time I saw a Sprinter that had been carrying a single 750 pound barrel. The driver simply inserted an e-track strap in one wall, then strung it across to the other wall, creating a load bar out of a strap. He had to make an emergency stop with his 2 week old van, and the barrel slammed into that strap and the walls slapped together. Totaled the van.

No matter how securely you mount the wall e-track, no matter how strong of a load bar you put there, the walls of a Sprinter will, absolutely, give way before everything else will.

For a single barrel, however, I always lay a 2x4 across the top of the barrel, with the 2x4 being oriented so that the ends of it sit above the e-track on the floor. Then I run a strap over each end of the 2x4 and ratchet it down. Same principle as a battery holder.

Brace with the wall tracks, but never think of it as the primary securement point (I'm talkin' Sprinter here, not a box truck that's designed for wall-bracing). Think from the floor up. Use the wall track as a secondary bracing point. Anything under 500 pounds and the wall should be fine for primary securement. Like empty automotive milk crates or something. But for a couple of skids, 2500 pounds, I'll secure to the floor, then maybe use a cross bar an inch or so forward just to keep the load from shifting.

>
>>You don't really need them ultra-secure to the walls like you would
>>with them on the floor
>The "them" in the above sentence refers to E-Track (and not
>barrels) correct ?

Corrent. "Them" is the e-tracks.

>I could see where that could be the
>case, since one one wouldn't want to tension much between
>the two side walls
, like one might with a strap that's
>hooked into the floor.

Correct again. Too much tension will bow the walls. Tension on the edge and you hit a bump will bow the walls. That's why, with anything heavy, you want to refrain from making the walls the sole bracing contact. A much better single bracing would be a load bar across the floor, secured in the e-track down there. If it's a tall skid, place a second load bar on the walls to help out the floor. If it's heavy and tall, strap it down to the floor. Period.

>
>Thanks for the picture and the feedback .... it helps to see
>what others have done.

It's a never-ending process, too.


After having said all this, it's way better to over-do it than under-do it. Better to be safe than stoopid. After a while you'll see others out here and how they are doing things. You'll see vans with no e-track at all, or the plywood deck just laying there, not even screwed into the floor. Or no decking at all, just bare metal floor, with all the pots and bracing exposed. Rubber bungy chords for tie-downs, or motorcycle straps. You'll be thankful that you were a little paranoid when you see things like that.

Also, and this is how I do it, you can do it however you want.... from the back of the bunk to the rear door, my van is all business, all about freight. I store non-freight related stuff along the walls, but it's always neat and tidy. When I open the read doors the shipper or consignee sees a cargo area that is designed to haul their cargo safely and securely.

From the bunk forward, that's where I live, but I always keep it neat and clean, as well. A Sprinter is still an unusual vehicle, specially one like mine where the fridge and microwave towers above the bunk, and often a shipper or consignee will want to check out the living space, take the nickel tour. I'm not anal about cleanliness, not even close, but no matter what, my living space is neat and clean when I pick up or deliver a load, because I have had people want to see it much more often than I would have expected.

Even if I haven't showered or shaved in a few days, something that shippers and consignees usually understand about drivers, when people look in the van they don't see the aftermath of Katrina. They see neat, clean, orderly, professional. They can't help but to think that I will treat their freight with the same care. I've had them tell me as much, or they've told me they have worried about freight that they placed onto some vans because of how much of a disaster is was in those vans.

If the van is dirty, I wash it, sometimes when going to pick up a load or to delivery, especially if it's been in an area with a lot of snow and salt and I'm heading to an area where there isn't any. If I've been driving around up north foe a few days and I have a load going to South Carolina, somewhere along the way the van will get washed.


Sorry for rambling. At least I'm famous for that. :)
 

jrcarroll

Expert Expediter
We ran two strips of E track on each wall. one just above the wheel well housing and the other higher along the metal bracing.
I do also use the load bars, but also use the straps. Only tighting them, not trying to get them to pull the walls in. Also use the D rings & like Targuard said, they will hold!!
 
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