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You need to remove the bezel that surrounds the radio and stuff. It just pulls off. This gives access to the HVAC controls. Then remove the panels across the bottom. There's a couple push pins and 10mm bolts. With some of this out of the way it will be easier to see.

There are three cables attached to the controls. They go to three different door controls. Make sure they're all attached and not bent up, and that everything is moving through it's range of motion.

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Warm up the vehicle to at least 170F. Use data monitor to monitor coolant temp, rpm, and injection quantity. Use activation test to command 980 rpm. Record injection quantity after it stabilizes. Turn on the exhaust brake, record injection quantity. It will be higher with the brake on. You...

You should have it attached to a scan tool to see what the system is doing. How long does a manual regeneration take? How often do you have to do a manual regen?

Yes, they're getting Cummins engines in them. For now, anyway. The current engine platforms have been developed as far as they can, and basically can't be made to run cleaner.

Are there bubbles in the coolant? Does coolant return to the radiator after it cools down? Does the fan clutch work? You have lots of stuff to check.

Is it doing a regen when it loses power? When was the last time the fuel filter was replaced? Search on here for brake pedal switch, make sure that's adjusted correctly. Any boost leaks? What is the DPR graph reading?

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I don't think Hino wiring diagrams are going to help you. The ECU is absolutely the last thing to consider. You have a million other things to verify first.

You can set up maintenance interval stuff in the dash. The check engine light only comes on when there is a problem, not when maintenance is due.

What, like drop them on the floor? Glad you figured it out.

It could be in limp mode. Try resetting scr history.

Can you command the ITV, EGR, and VNT through their ranges? Does fuel pressure target and actual match each other? Is everything plugged in?

Air or hydraulic brakes?

That's interesting. In my experience, the ECUs they put in Hinos are pretty robust and are rarely the problem.

The slave cylinder is moving the release arm correctly? Does this one have a slave cylinder return spring?

The truck really needs to be hooked up to the DXII software to get an accurate diagnosis. Start with this. It sounds like you lost the range switch on the side of the transmission where the gear shift shaft goes in. Water gets in these switches and messes them up.. There's an updated wiring...

There's really no way of knowing how much oil was released when the line was broken. Here's a chart that might provide some insight.

Check that the big o-ring didn't fall off of the clear plastic housing, I've seen them installed improperly causing these symptoms.