They come with a cd that shows you how to do the install. I think guido said it took him about three hours.
sent from my FISHER PRICE Z100 using EO forums
Staying warm this winter?
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They come with a cd that shows you how to do the install. I think guido said it took him about three hours.
sent from my FISHER PRICE Z100 using EO forums
I installed an Espar in my old straight truck. The wiring diagrams did not match my the wiring harness at all. I finally just studied it until I could understand what wire had to be where for it to work and wired it up. Other than having to sort through the wiring, your toughest part may be getting fuel to it. I got lucky and my fuel tank had an extra hole with a pipe plug in it. I was able to just drop the pickup tube into that spot.
You'll need a hole saw to run the intake exhaust tubes to the underside of the body.
As for the vent tubing that blows the warm air into the van, I permanently installed mine and capped it with the vent provided. In a van, I would suggest doing it like OVM's is done. Just attach the tubing to the output of the heater and leave the other end loose. Then you can direct the heat anywhere you want by just moving the tube. That is the one drawback to the Espar. The warm air (can be pretty hot air actually) is blown out of the tube at a pretty strong rate and it will blow the heat away from you if you dont have it aimed right. If mounted permanent, just be sure to direct the air toward the spot you will be at the most when the heater is running.
It took me a few days (partial days really) to install mine. I could probably do a second one in a day or day and a half.
21cExp
Veteran Expediter
Oh cool, thanks xiggi. Come to think of it, I think what I saw online was maybe a preview vid of installation. A CD would be wonderful.
I'll do mine, then help others when I can to install theirs, in exchange for coffee and a hamburger. Okay, maybe a steak and beer
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I see at esparparts.com the D2 kit is $1095 and the D4 is $1820 ($1863 w/ mini controller). If petercar's price above from Mid-States Carrier in Ft Wayne is accurate, it must be for the D2 and install only, and not include a battery. I can't imagine it includes the installation and wiring for a second battery. That means a self-install should save about $550.
Looking at the specs now, I think I'll go for the D4 over the D2.
I'll do mine, then help others when I can to install theirs, in exchange for coffee and a hamburger. Okay, maybe a steak and beer
. I see at esparparts.com the D2 kit is $1095 and the D4 is $1820 ($1863 w/ mini controller). If petercar's price above from Mid-States Carrier in Ft Wayne is accurate, it must be for the D2 and install only, and not include a battery. I can't imagine it includes the installation and wiring for a second battery. That means a self-install should save about $550.
Looking at the specs now, I think I'll go for the D4 over the D2.
21cExp
Veteran Expediter
IIRC, it took them about 6 hours to install my Espar in the Sprinter, but that was Ray at Espar of Michigan and he does a lot of them, so a first time install would likely be 1-2 days.
The difference in buying it outright and the install labor was $500, it might be $550 or $600 now, so those figures seem about right.
You don't need much of a battery if all you're going to run is the Espar, as the amp hour draw is quite low, even over a 24 hour period. It's about 1 amp per hour overall.
Looking at the specs you'll see the D4 draws more power at each of the levels (boost, high, med, low), but it will also spend more time at lower levels than the D2. Where the D2 may spend most of it's time on Medium, the D2 spends that time on Low, because of the increased BTU output and the dramatically increased CFM airflow.
If the van is well insulated, the D2 will keep you plenty warm. Plenty of people stay warm and toasty with the D2s. But it'll generally work harder to do it, spending a lot of time on High or Medium when the D4 is on Medium or Low. The D2 isn't a bad choice at all, but I personally recommend the D4 for that reason. If the van isn't well insulated, D4 is it.
The difference in buying it outright and the install labor was $500, it might be $550 or $600 now, so those figures seem about right.
You don't need much of a battery if all you're going to run is the Espar, as the amp hour draw is quite low, even over a 24 hour period. It's about 1 amp per hour overall.
Looking at the specs you'll see the D4 draws more power at each of the levels (boost, high, med, low), but it will also spend more time at lower levels than the D2. Where the D2 may spend most of it's time on Medium, the D2 spends that time on Low, because of the increased BTU output and the dramatically increased CFM airflow.
If the van is well insulated, the D2 will keep you plenty warm. Plenty of people stay warm and toasty with the D2s. But it'll generally work harder to do it, spending a lot of time on High or Medium when the D4 is on Medium or Low. The D2 isn't a bad choice at all, but I personally recommend the D4 for that reason. If the van isn't well insulated, D4 is it.
21cExp
Veteran Expediter
Yep, my van is pretty well sealed up, though with properly installed Reflectix (not true insulation), dead air spaces either side, and covered. I saw another, in-depth, post by you somewhere, Ken, that compared the D2 & D4 that led me to lean towards the D4.
But thinking about it, with the way I have things set up, a D4 may never even get to run on high in my van, so I'm not yet sure there is sense in it.
I'll be running more than just the Espar Airtronic on the additional batteries. I also run a small thermoelectric cooler (now that I've been using it for a few months I can't imagine not having an ice-less cooler of some sort) but may go for a small, real, fridge/freezer combo (only 33.5" tall) that I saw at a Lowe's or HD. I also keep a scanner/printer, use my laptop a lot in the evenings or while sitting, and an 18v charger for cordless Ryobi fan and tools. I do a lot of desert and rural vancamping, year 'round, but those are my primary and consistent needs. I usually run the chargers only while I'm running, so the only typical draw on my starting batts while the engine is off is the cooler and my laptop, both somewhat intermittently.
May as well set up good house power to suffice for all that, so I don't worry about starting or not (haven't gone dead yet, in years). I'll add some small task lighting to the house, too. Still haven't really come up with a good cooling solution for the worst heat of summer, but that will probably draw from the house batts too when sitting.
Appreciate all your info.
But thinking about it, with the way I have things set up, a D4 may never even get to run on high in my van, so I'm not yet sure there is sense in it.
I'll be running more than just the Espar Airtronic on the additional batteries. I also run a small thermoelectric cooler (now that I've been using it for a few months I can't imagine not having an ice-less cooler of some sort) but may go for a small, real, fridge/freezer combo (only 33.5" tall) that I saw at a Lowe's or HD. I also keep a scanner/printer, use my laptop a lot in the evenings or while sitting, and an 18v charger for cordless Ryobi fan and tools. I do a lot of desert and rural vancamping, year 'round, but those are my primary and consistent needs. I usually run the chargers only while I'm running, so the only typical draw on my starting batts while the engine is off is the cooler and my laptop, both somewhat intermittently.
May as well set up good house power to suffice for all that, so I don't worry about starting or not (haven't gone dead yet, in years). I'll add some small task lighting to the house, too. Still haven't really come up with a good cooling solution for the worst heat of summer, but that will probably draw from the house batts too when sitting.
Appreciate all your info.
Those kinds of electrical requirements will definitely mean a good house bank, probably 300-600 amp hours if you go with a regular fridge, or 200-400 if not.
If you are heating the entire van, the D4 will definitely see some time at High (and of course at Boost), but not really all that often unless it's just stupid cold, 10 degrees or less. It'll start off at Boost for a few minutes to quickly get things warm then go to High and depending on how quickly things are warming up, rather quickly to Medium or Low.
One of the keys is the airflow through the heated space. I have a duct on my cold air intake that draws in air from the rear third of the cargo area, and the warm air output is split between the cabin area and the cargo space. Basically, you want the air intake and the heated output to be as far apart as you can, rather than leaving the intake bare (in most cases, but especially if you're heating the entire van). This moves the heat around more evenly. And with the CFM airflow of the D4, it moves it around quite nicely. Heat rises, cold air sinks. What you want to avoid is 120 degrees at the ceiling, 80 degrees at hip level, and 4 degrees on the floor. Insulating the floor with rugs and padding also helps.
As many here know, or at least have been told, when I'm in the van and its all buttoned up, I'm nekkid in there. And cold toes does not a happy turtle make. I'm warm and toasty from head to toe, laying down, sitting down, or standing up.
If you are heating the entire van, the D4 will definitely see some time at High (and of course at Boost), but not really all that often unless it's just stupid cold, 10 degrees or less. It'll start off at Boost for a few minutes to quickly get things warm then go to High and depending on how quickly things are warming up, rather quickly to Medium or Low.
One of the keys is the airflow through the heated space. I have a duct on my cold air intake that draws in air from the rear third of the cargo area, and the warm air output is split between the cabin area and the cargo space. Basically, you want the air intake and the heated output to be as far apart as you can, rather than leaving the intake bare (in most cases, but especially if you're heating the entire van). This moves the heat around more evenly. And with the CFM airflow of the D4, it moves it around quite nicely. Heat rises, cold air sinks. What you want to avoid is 120 degrees at the ceiling, 80 degrees at hip level, and 4 degrees on the floor. Insulating the floor with rugs and padding also helps.
As many here know, or at least have been told, when I'm in the van and its all buttoned up, I'm nekkid in there. And cold toes does not a happy turtle make. I'm warm and toasty from head to toe, laying down, sitting down, or standing up.
I have to ask: What about weight? It occurs to me that house batteries and such carry a weight penalty. It may mean a little less in a 3500 series van, you've got some ability to give up a little. In a 2500 series van, though, it may mean a good deal.
I had mine on the scale a couple of weeks back. With no freight, but a full tank and my personal stuff and me sitting in it, I have 2,900 pounds that I can play with between what it weighs and the GVWR. That's not as much as one might hope as it is, and it's not hard to see how a couple of hundred pounds of batteries and other assorted hardware can begin to hurt you. So--- what kind of weight penalty am I looking at if I really set up for housekeeping?
I had mine on the scale a couple of weeks back. With no freight, but a full tank and my personal stuff and me sitting in it, I have 2,900 pounds that I can play with between what it weighs and the GVWR. That's not as much as one might hope as it is, and it's not hard to see how a couple of hundred pounds of batteries and other assorted hardware can begin to hurt you. So--- what kind of weight penalty am I looking at if I really set up for housekeeping?
hooked to the truck battery ha very little battery amp draw and hardly any fuel use
You said it yourself, a couple hundred pounds. The more amp hours the batteries, the more lead they'll have. I've got four 6-volt deep cycles that weight about 90 pounds each, including cables, lugs, fuses and other things. About 350 pounds or so. Mine is 610 amp hours. 300 amp hours should total out at around 200 pounds.
I thought it might be something like that. I can trade off a thing or two. The shotgun seat can go, that shaves a bit of weight. I probably don't need to make as big a production of it as many of you do, since I run hot-shot and I don't spend all that much time trying to live in the van. Still, a bit of heat in the winter would be good and I know that whether I run batteries or a generator I have to figure the weight of the equipment I add to the van. That's payload I can't carry without going overweight.
Otherwise, these days I don't run much. The GPS unit and the phone charger are about it, I've recently bought a twelve-volt sleeping blanket and a coffee pot, that's about it. I never bring the laptop these days, seems a wifi hotspot isn't all that common so there's little point to carrying it.
21cExp
Veteran Expediter
Yeah, eventually I'll have it set up to be as much of a multi-purpose full time living/earning space as possible.
I have it set now to quickly convert from hauling freight to being a campervan with room for two bunks, for those weeks that I hit the road as explorer with family or companion.
Even as a solo freight hauler I have it set that I can put my bed easily and quickly in any of three different spots, all comfortable and longer than I am; just depends on what I'm hauling and how much living room I want. All based on a folding bedboard and wheel well cabts and same height movable storage containers. Great fun and an intriguing design challenge to figure out.
Sounds like the D4--again based on your experience and info--may be the better and more all-purpose heat source over the long run. I've already thought about how I want to distribute the heat and will most likely create a multi-flow path that can be diverted as needed with a simple flap similar to what is used in a stovepipe. Though I suspect, like many things I do, that I'll overplan and in the end will use it open and heat the whole space.
My floor plan is a very open one, with only a 1/3 bulkhead being the only floor to ceiling piece, about 112" from the rear doors and far enough behind the driver's seat that I can lean it back all the way and still have room to hang a garment bag etc on the front of the bulkhead.
I sometimes use a simple fabric wall between living and cargo space if I know I want to leave my living space set up but hidden from the freight area and that's adjustable too, anywhere along the length of the interior from rear doors to third-wall bulkhead. Sort of a moving fabric bulkhead, which I'm thinking about doubling up with a layer of Reflectix in between.
So yep, making it as comfy and cozy and stealth-like (my vans have always been my version of an SUV--Stealthy Urban Van) as possible to provide the greatest range of possibilities in parking spots and privacy. Nekkidness optional.
I have it set now to quickly convert from hauling freight to being a campervan with room for two bunks, for those weeks that I hit the road as explorer with family or companion.
Even as a solo freight hauler I have it set that I can put my bed easily and quickly in any of three different spots, all comfortable and longer than I am; just depends on what I'm hauling and how much living room I want. All based on a folding bedboard and wheel well cabts and same height movable storage containers. Great fun and an intriguing design challenge to figure out.
Sounds like the D4--again based on your experience and info--may be the better and more all-purpose heat source over the long run. I've already thought about how I want to distribute the heat and will most likely create a multi-flow path that can be diverted as needed with a simple flap similar to what is used in a stovepipe. Though I suspect, like many things I do, that I'll overplan and in the end will use it open and heat the whole space.
My floor plan is a very open one, with only a 1/3 bulkhead being the only floor to ceiling piece, about 112" from the rear doors and far enough behind the driver's seat that I can lean it back all the way and still have room to hang a garment bag etc on the front of the bulkhead.
I sometimes use a simple fabric wall between living and cargo space if I know I want to leave my living space set up but hidden from the freight area and that's adjustable too, anywhere along the length of the interior from rear doors to third-wall bulkhead. Sort of a moving fabric bulkhead, which I'm thinking about doubling up with a layer of Reflectix in between.
So yep, making it as comfy and cozy and stealth-like (my vans have always been my version of an SUV--Stealthy Urban Van) as possible to provide the greatest range of possibilities in parking spots and privacy. Nekkidness optional.
I'm going to be putting in some insulation. This van only has steel walls back of the driver, no insulation at all. It occurs to me that as it is, I'd have to light a bonfire back there to get meaningful heat on a cold day, but if it's got some insulation it won't be so bad.
Quickie update: I got some insulation in. It looks somewhat sloppy--- sheet foam doesn't cut as clean as I'd like-- but it's better than it was.
This morning I tried out a couple of propane heaters. The Coleman Sport unit was almost worthless. It gets hot enough, but it doesn't spread heat well. The Mr. Heat unit, on the other hand, will drive you out in only a few minutes if you leave it on high. Bonus: The Mr. Heat unit has fittings on the back that allow for securing it to the wall.
This morning I tried out a couple of propane heaters. The Coleman Sport unit was almost worthless. It gets hot enough, but it doesn't spread heat well. The Mr. Heat unit, on the other hand, will drive you out in only a few minutes if you leave it on high. Bonus: The Mr. Heat unit has fittings on the back that allow for securing it to the wall.
had a few -20 nights last winter, my D4 was just 1/2 setting and it stunk me out...I heat the whole sprinter....keep in mind a GAS Espar heats at a lower rate BTU then a Diesel Espar...I think it around a 30 degree difference at the source....Ray would know exactly
Gas and diesel burn at different BTUs. Back when I was running model power boats, a model airplane engine repairman put out a list of the BTUs of various liquid fuels. I've lost it, but I still remember bits and pieces of it.
Over the years, I've messed with every way to heat imaginable.....the Espar is the cleanest, easiest, most efficient way to go....
When I get sufficient spare change, of course the Espar is the way to go. In the meantime, I'm still in make it do or do without mode. The two units I tested this morning belong to a friend, I'll have to buy my own shortly. Of those two, the Mr. Heat/Buddy heater produced the biggest bang for the buck. The little Coleman unit was next-door to worthless, but then it was a little thing that screws onto the top of a small throw-away cylinder.
I've owned-- or been owned by-- a Sprinter. In really cold weather, heating that big box is a chore for any heater. Running the engine won't do, you get cold while the engine temperature needle drops. So, some type of auxiliary heating system is a must.
purgoose10
Veteran Expediter
You should be very careful about using the colemans, they are not approved for indoor use. Real embarassing to wake up dead.