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Big Truck I work on Hino trucks. I'll answer any questions I know the answers to.

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greasytshirt

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So back in late August the light came on in the morning, took it to a Hino dealer to have them check the status and respec anything before the warrenty ended. They said everything was good, 1 week after that i went back to them because I was in regen mode every 50-60km, the respec'ed the Engine Break and everything was ok. Until a week after that, I was getting a lot of bogging and hesitation. I took it back to them and they said that my DPR system was GONE and my INJECTORS where GONE. They wanted us to pay for everything but we took it to another Hino service and they compared charts between that of the DPR maintenance light datasheet from back in August and noticed that the other Hino Server lied to us. So we had Hino Canada pay for the entire DPR system and Injectors. Everything started to work perfect again, until it started bogging and hesitating once again. Then I noticed a fuel leak right where the fuel line goes into the engine.

So we go back to the same Hino dealer that replaced our DPR and Injectors to have him solve the fuel leak. They replaced two fuel lines, (5 & 6). But went they went for test drive they had NO POWER. So they found the Turbo to be faulty, So we replaced the Turbo and power was back. After a week and a half of them doing the fuel line, and turbo replacement because we had to wait couple days for the turbo to come in, I go pick it up, bob tail to my trailer, NO PROBLEMS. I hook up load up and drive. NO PROBLEMS. It hits regen mode at 100km and burns away fine except for the MASSIVE power lose i get. Basically, im going down the highway at 105km and it brings me down to 55-60 km/hour with no power. My RPM keep dropping and dropping and dropping, until it finishes the regen mode and I get back FULL POWER. Eventually the chkeng light came on and check for what code it gave out. P0400. So i take it back to them today and they tell me this was the same code it gave them when i was in for the whole fuel line and turbo replacement, but they said that code is for the EGR Valve.

So we go and bring the truck back, we test, we test drive, everything is ok. So i tell them put in regen mode and it barely even goes over 45KM. I dont even hear the Turbo spool up when its in regen mode, but i know it should and i should hear it even if its in regen mode. We tried a fresh new updated ECU unit and nothing changed. EGR Valve has not yet been replaced but most likely they will replace it for the heck of it to see if it is the problem tomorrow. Even the tech is telling me, if it was EGR valve, u would feel it from idle, because it would be rough and you would have no power no matter if regen mode on or off. Also they noticed the TPS was a bit off today so they are going to fix that in the morning.

So heres a list of everything that has been replaced. I hope i made this understandable. if not i can clarify anything just ask. Just get this that when i HIT REGEN MODE I get NO power.

Late August
DPR light On -everything ok

Mid September
Respec'ed Engine break

Late September into October
Injectors
DPR System
Fuel lines
Throttle Valve
Turbo

Tested with new ECU as of oct15/14 No Change so ECU not problem. They will adjust the TPS tomorrow.

We are lost and even the tech has been in contact with engineers from States and even in Japan and no body does not know what to do. Please Help.

What a mess.


Ok, lots of things going on here. Just to make sure everything is straight, you're experiencing the following:

  • Regens are too frequent.
  • Low power during a driving regen
  • Hesitation and bogging

When there is a problem with regens being too frequent or not completing (on trucks with just a dpf), there's a checksheet available to help. Things it mentions:
  • Air filter ok?
  • Any leaks in the turbo piping or intercooler?
  • How's the mass airflow sensor? Compare it with a new one.
  • Is the turbo barfing oil into the intake air stream?
  • Is the engine overfilled with oil? *
  • Is the intake throttle valve in good shape?*
  • Does the VNT controller work properly?
  • Is the exhaust brake set correctly?
  • Inspect the hoses at the differential pressure sensor for cracks or clogging.
  • Inspect the pre and post DPF temp sensors for proper resistance, and check the harness for breaks.*
  • Is the exhaust brake adjusted correctly?
Engine oil...Is it making oil? When the injectors were replaced, that meant they had to mess with the somewhat fragile injector fuel return line. We never reuse these, ever. If they get kinked or bent, or if any of the banjo bolts were left loose, it will dump fuel into the oil. This is a very serious problem.

The mass airflow sensor is rarely the problem, but it's job is absolutely crucial for everything to work correctly. They're also sort of hard to diagnose, so sticking a new one on for testing purposes is pretty common.

In the US, we're modifying all of the Intake Throttle Valves on 08-10 trucks by drilling three 8mm holes 6.5mm from the bottom edge of the plate. One in the center, the other two 20 degrees apart on either side of the center one. Kind of like the bottom three points of a peace sign. If this thing sticks shut, it will cause havoc. The reason for the holes is to cause a controlled leak to help the little servo thing open the valve if it gets stuck. It should be wide open during a manual regen. I don't actually know what it does during a driving regen, but I imagine the same thing. Its purpose is to create an area of low pressure in the intake to help coax the lower pressure EGR gasses into the intake.

The DPF temp sensors are generally reliable, but on the conventional trucks down here the harness often breaks or degrades right behind the connector. We 'load test' the circuit by disconnecting the ecu connector, attaching a headlight on either leg of the connector down at the dpf, and forcing 12v through both legs. If the headlight lights, the harness is good. If anything else happens, it ain't.

Generally, if the thing does a manual regen ok, it'll do a driving regen well too, with a few exceptions. The exhaust brake should not be left on all the time. If you need it, pull the lever down. When you're done, push it back up. It interrupts everything when you are driving. On the other hand, it stays on all the time during a manual regen.

The exhaust brake setting changes as the injectors age. If they put injectors in it and didn't also readjust the exhaust brake again, it's probably set too high. It's essentially like shoving a banana in your tailpipe. It purposely loads up the engine to heat up the exhaust gas.

You said they were fiddling with the settings. I'd have the tendency to take a dx report and save it, then set everything back to default and see if some setting caused this problem.

Will it perform a manual regen properly?

I'm gonna pretend this thing is sitting in front of me right now, and go through some troubleshooting steps.
Start engine, warm up to 180 degrees.
Set idle to 980 rpm.
Monitor injection quantity with the exhaust brake on and off. Difference should be between 12-14 mm3. Adjust if off.
Turn engine off, turn ignition back on. Go to engine customization. Take a note of 'PM amount' and before and after dpf temps. Set 'PM amount' to 2.5. Reset dpf temp history.
Start engine. DPR graph on dash should jump from 2 bars to three, meaning that I can do a manual regen.
Set up data monitor to look at engine rpm, coolant temp, injection quantity, dpf pre and post temps, differential pressure across dpf. Hell, lets look and see if it's commanding the exhaust brake on, VNT target and actual, ITV target and actual, EGR target and actual, scv target and actual, Common rail pressure target and actual. VNT, EGR, ITV, SCV, and rail pressure actual values should all closely match their targets. These can be graphed in pairs using Microsoft Excel to visually see any discrepancies.
The pre dpf temp sensor should steadily climb up to around 1030F, maybe up to 1100. The post sensor will lag behind, but eventually make it up to 950-1000F (if it's relatively clean). If it's slammed full of soot, be careful. Around 1450F that thing will melt.
Push the regen button. See what happens. Save the data.
Go to system protection data. Note DPF outlet temp.
Turn off truck. Turn on ignition.

Go back into engine customization. Reset dpf temps again, set 'PM amount' back to 2.5. Set up another graph, same things (since we're trying to solve two things at once). Start the engine. Prop the computer up on the seat (or hand it to a passenger) and start driving. It will almost immediately start an auto regen. Hopefully you're graphing whatever parameters are actually causing the problem. IN particular, I'd be looking at mass airflow volume; scv, VNT, ITV, Common rail targets and actual values; brake light switch, Stop light switch, exhaust brake switch, and injection quantity.

Some of that stuff, like the brake light switch, doesn't make sense unless you know that the ecu will limit injection quantity if the brake is applied. Sometimes the switch gets flakey, and the ecu is sent a signal that the brakes are applied when they're not. Goodbye horsepower. A pretty common problem, actually.


We don't even have this model in the US, so all of this is based on the 338, which has the same horsepower engine. I imagine it's all very similar.


I've never seen an EGR valve hang open and cause a performance problem. Usually they either clog and don't move at all, or there's some other undefined electrical problem. I doubt very seriously that it's the culprit, but if they're gonna replace it under warranty, let 'em.

Oh, adjust your valves, too. They should have been adjusted four times by now. Have they?
 

greasytshirt

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Is there a cheap scan tool you can buy to read codes?

No. And yes.

A Matco code reader, a Snap-On Modis, and J-Pro Fleet all failed to pull engine codes. But 08-14 trucks will tell you engine codes.

08-10 trucks will show active faults. There is also an inactive fault menu. Use the mode button and up-down toggle. Hit mode until you see "System". System something, I forget. Press down on toggle to select. It'll show active codes. Press Up and HOLD for around ten seconds. it'll show inactive codes. keep pressing up to scroll through them. I think you hold down to erase them, but don't erase them. It'll fix nothing, and it removes clues.

11-14 trucks have a different menu screen, but it's done sort of the same way. What it can't tell you is the specific codes in the Burner ecu or the Dosing Control Unit.
 

macpl

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Ok I have read everything you said.

Dpr regen fine manually, I have auto transmission so it does go into auto regen mode during stop and go situations. But when it is in regen mode there is no power. Yes the eng brake was adjusted after the injectors where put it. The Dpr system is brand new not even a two week on my truck so it all works as it should. The whole computer test you where talking about was done and everything you mentioned about it hit target and actual. I will ask them to pop a new mfa sensor in for the hell of it to see if it was my maf sensors as I am headed down to the mech right now. I never said they played with settings I said they popped in a new ecu to see if the ecu wad the problem but it did not fix it. And as far as the valves I believe they where adjusted last about two years ago because of power loss then. I will ask them when I get there.
 

greasytshirt

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Ok I have read everything you said.

Dpr regen fine manually, I have auto transmission so it does go into auto regen mode during stop and go situations. But when it is in regen mode there is no power. Yes the eng brake was adjusted after the injectors where put it. The Dpr system is brand new not even a two week on my truck so it all works as it should. The whole computer test you where talking about was done and everything you mentioned about it hit target and actual. I will ask them to pop a new mfa sensor in for the hell of it to see if it was my maf sensors as I am headed down to the mech right now. I never said they played with settings I said they popped in a new ecu to see if the ecu wad the problem but it did not fix it. And as far as the valves I believe they where adjusted last about two years ago because of power loss then. I will ask them when I get there.

Did they tell you anything new?
 

epoxyman

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Got my new little Hino last week its a great little truck.
I moved all my tools from my other box truck into the Hino wow you can not even tell there is any
weight in this thing at all. Lots of power and rides real nice to I think I made the right buy on this truck.

Now the question I have is I want to add a USB charging socket for my phone that has power to it even when the key is off. Where should I look for power at and whats the best way to add this into my dash. I do not want to mess anything up want to do it right the 1st time.

Here's a link to the USB thing. Amazon.com: Dual USB Charger Socket 12 Volt Outlet Plug Jack Panel Mount Boat Sea Marine Car Truck Blue Rv ATV Auto #Ygd: Everything Else
 

greasytshirt

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If you pop the lower portion of the dash off, you'll come across a bundle of unconnected pigtails. One of these provides battery voltage all the time. Also in this bundle is connections for pto (if you want the ecu to control the pto, for example), and for cargo power sources (like lights inside the box). In other words, find the one that provides battery voltage, and leave the rest alone.

As far as where it put that adapter, there may be some switch knockouts it'll fit in.
 

epoxyman

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Thanks for the info I have a volt meter so I can use that to find the power I hope,
They put in two switches one for the box light inside and one for the lift gate.

Once again thanks. And like you said they are great little trucks.
Ron.
 

macpl

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All they said so far is that they are going to replace the air to air and work on our topped and valves. Since you said that they should have been adjusted four times up to now and us recalling only having our valves adjusted once about two years ago they said they were going to work on that. Will know anything else tomorrow
 

gboss

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I have a 07 hino 268 the hose that connects to the turbo and intercooler keeps coming loose with the pressure build up . I replace the hose and clamps. Any suggestions?
 

greasytshirt

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I have a 07 hino 268 the hose that connects to the turbo and intercooler keeps coming loose with the pressure build up . I replace the hose and clamps. Any suggestions?
Is the hose an OEM Hino hose? I know they are super expensive, but they work well. The Hino clamps are also thicker metal with beveled edges, compared to off the shelf hose clamps. The newest trucks are coming with two clamps on each end. Tightening with a screwdriver isn't enough. I use a 7mm socket on a 1/4" drive ratchet to crank them down.

Periodic retightening will be necessary.



Just in case you are having an overboost problem, hit both of the VNT link joints with Loctite Nickel Antiseize. Yes, it's expensive, but it works extremely well. I highly recommend putting this stuff on any exhaust system fastener that is being reassembled.

Amazon.com: Anti-Seize Compounds: Home Improvement

You can find it cheaper than this if you look. One can will last a long time.
 
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EASYTRADER

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I sample my oil every 15k miles, and lead has held steady at 13, it has now jumped to 28.

All other items are holding steady.

What could this be?

O7 hino 338 1030000 miles.

Sent from my SPH-D700 using Tapatalk 2
 
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greasytshirt

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I sample my oil every 15k miles, and lead has held steady at 13, it has now jumped to 28.

All other items are holding steady.

What could this be?

O7 hino 338 1030000 miles.

Sent from my SPH-D700 using Tapatalk 2

I am going to assume that it's the upper half of the rod bearings. At some point they changed the upper half of the rod bearings for increased fatigue resistance. I'm assuming the 07s had the original style.

Is that mileage accurate? 1.3M? It's probably due a set of rod bearings.
 

EASYTRADER

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The truck only uses about 1 gal of oil every 15k. But if im looking at rod bearings,

i guess its inframe time?

whats that gonna cost?

How long does it take?

Sent from my SPH-D700 using Tapatalk 2
 
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greasytshirt

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The truck only uses about 1 gal of oil every 15k. But if im looking at rod bearings,

i guess its inframe time?

whats that gonna cost?

How long does it take?

Sent from my SPH-D700 using Tapatalk 2


Well, if the power is ok and oil consumption low, then I'd consider just doing main and rod bearings, which someone could accomplish before lunch.

The last inframe I did included a turbo, injectors, a connecting rod, a CAC, every moving part of the cylinder head, and a camshaft (they ran it till it blew), and it was somewhere north of $17k.

I don't know how many hours it's supposed to take because I get diverted countless times during the process (I'm the official problem-solver, and i get diverted A LOT).
 

EASYTRADER

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Do these trucks have injector cup issues?

Last night it started blowing out coolant. I just put a new head it 50k ago

This really sucks.

Sent from my SPH-D700 using Tapatalk 2
 

greasytshirt

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Do these trucks have injector cup issues?

Last night it started blowing out coolant. I just put a new head it 50k ago

This really sucks.

Sent from my SPH-D700 using Tapatalk 2


Not really, but they do leak occasionally. It's mostly apparent when an injector is removed. You can see corrosion down in it.

How actively is it blowing out coolant? Is it a small stream of bubbles going into the overflow? Sometimes we see atmospheric air getting pulled into the cooling system past a water pump seal that is just beginning to fail. If the radiator cap is more than a few years old, I'd replace it.

To spot the difference between combustion gas and atmospheric air, I'd use a combustion gas tester.
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-75500-C...&sr=8-2&keywords=combustion+gas+leak+detector
This is the best method I know of to tell.
 

EASYTRADER

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I have had repeated problems with this truck blowing, coolant and overfheating. Now its running warmer than normal and blowing coolant.

Its been a real pain in the ***.

The truck was great for 400k, then I popped the head gsket, and it hasn't been right since.

I actually ran it for a year with a flow through radiator cap, just letting the gases blow thru.

I'm not paying for a fourth head removal and refix.

Thanks for your help, but this truck is going to be sold to a dismantler in 3 days.



Sent from my SPH-D700 using Tapatalk 2
 

greasytshirt

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Sorry to hear that it finally gave up. I'm impressed with the number of miles you've put on it. Most of the ones I see are driven by people that don't care nearly as much as you do.
 
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