Yes, the vanes or linkage get stuck, and the effort burns up the controller.
With the ignition off, it should move with a gentle shove.
Big Truck I work on Hino trucks. I'll answer any questions I know the answers to.
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- 2016 hino
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Yes, the vanes or linkage get stuck, and the effort burns up the controller.
With the ignition off, it should move with a gentle shove.
balance
Rookie Expediter
I use pwr when I have a load and going uphill and find that it does help but given my old truck is like a v8 and this is a straight 6, I cant complain much. Gonna put in a extra battery this week, my old truck use the thread battery, while the hino use clamps gonna have to buy a longer cable do add the battery if I want to use my old batteries (they're like less 1 year old) :/ Might grab as much as i can from my old truck because it's going to a wrecker =(
Also this week my truck did it's first def regen but it was only at 2-3 bar on the dfp meter. I just kept driving my truck when the yellow regen light came on (dealership told me i have like 80km to drive) I was surpise when I arrive, regen was completed and dfp meter was 0 and all clean =)
Yes, like I had mentioned, it will automatically regen whenever the graph hits three bars. This will occur with no indication from the dash unless you come to a complete stop. Since the exhaust is so hot, the amber caution message on the dash pops up to remind you not to park near anything that can burn. As soon as you start moving again, the caution message goes away. Pretty soon afterward, the DPR graph shows empty, and the regen process ends.
You will rarely need to press the regen button on the dash. One scenario:you got to your destination and an automatic regen was in progress but didn't finish in time. Pressing the button will allow it to finish. If you didn't notice, it's no problem: the truck will initiate another auto regen soon after it's restarted next.
Another scenario: You are caught in a massive traffic jam for hours. The truck never moves long enough to complete an auto regen. Eventually the DPR graph goes up to 5 bars. You will get all sorts of warnings and flashing lights and alarms. That would be a good time to pull over and press the button.
Stoped at the dealer in Austin TX today to rum the codes, there was the p0045, which was expected, and 2 other codes that he said were can data errors, after I left there I looked up that code and its for the vnt circuit. Just stoppped for the night, and took a peek under the hood, looks like there is a broken wire at the plug for the vnt, but it was dark and I could hear something rustling in the woods near where I was standing so I will take a better look tomorrow morning, hopefully that is the issue. Also the corner ground strap where it mounts to the frame was moved to the bracket for the sleeper and it looks pretty rusted, will do something about that too.
crossing my fingers that I get it fixed!!!!
crossing my fingers that I get it fixed!!!!
It very well could fix it. Sometimes on the 05-07 trucks, there will be CAN faults with no P0045, which means the computer can't talk to the VNT at all. The P0045 generally means the ecu can't control the VNT properly, like if its sticking. If there's a broken wire, Id expect to see Can faults. So you might be in luck.
I would not put off the nickel antiseize treatment for long. The vnt can be damaged if it keeps fighting against a stuck linkage. They sell aerosol cans of the stuff on amazon. The dealerships should have it in stock too.
Absolutely clean the grounds, especially the one on the left rear of the cab to the frame. The ecu grounds through this cable, and that alone can set CAN faults. That ground is very important. Take it down to bare metal.,
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I ordered the anti sieze, it's at home waiting for me, but I knocked the linkage off at the turbo and the rod that controls the vanes moves freely.
I looked at it this morning and there was no broken wire, the way I was looking at it in the dark made it look that way.
I know I am ticking people off only being able to do 45 to 50 on the interstate but not much else I can do at this point.
Thanks!!!!
I looked at it this morning and there was no broken wire, the way I was looking at it in the dark made it look that way.
I know I am ticking people off only being able to do 45 to 50 on the interstate but not much else I can do at this point.
Thanks!!!!
****. It really sounds like the VNT controller is dying. The only hope at this point is a CAN error from a bad ground or flaky battery, but I'd be prepared for the inevitable turbo swap.
Yep vnt is bad, took it apart, found the motor connector burnt and the motor would not turn easily, messed with the connector lubed up the motor as best as I could and to my amazement the computer is "happy" not shutting it down until I get home, whew what a relief, could only go 40 mph
Any chance you could get a pic of the guts, the motor, #s off the motor, fried
Parts, etc?
I'm going to do a write up on it with pictures, I think that I can repair the one I have, the reason it froze up is because the motor coil is coated in plastic and with the heat generated from normal use, that plastic swelled against the armature, creating a restriction.
The nice thing is there is plenty of room to get to the vnt motor without taking the turbo off of the truck.
I can tell its sticking again, but when you start the truck and it makes it past its first "handshake" with the computer, it won't go into limo mode. I'm not going to shut the truck off until I get home.
460 more miles to go.....
The nice thing is there is plenty of room to get to the vnt motor without taking the turbo off of the truck.
I can tell its sticking again, but when you start the truck and it makes it past its first "handshake" with the computer, it won't go into limo mode. I'm not going to shut the truck off until I get home.
460 more miles to go.....
Ok made it home had the wife come out and rev it up while I watched and it was moving easy, shut it off and it popped right up like it should, and when she started it back up in went back down.
So I'm hopefull that once I tear it apart again and do what I'm planning it will be ok.
So I'm hopefull that once I tear it apart again and do what I'm planning it will be ok.
I hope you're making a photo essay. If this thing is easy to fix, you'll be a hero.
2 batteries, 700 cca each, threaded stud, 31 series. Room exists for a third. These are AGM batteries,, the electrolyte is soaked into glass matting, making them leak and vibration resistant. They are branded as Merit. I don't know the manufacturer. They are 10 times better than the conventional Exides they replaced. The COEs have a group 27? Made by Yuasa. These are also good.
Edit: If an AGM battery goes dead (like if the lights are left on or something), they can handle this deep cycling much better than a conventional lead acid battery. The problem is that it takes a while to charge it completely. A jump start and running it for an hour won't do it. It'd be better if they are disconnected and charged separately. They like higher than average voltage for this sort of charging. After they are completely charged again, they will behave normally. We've replaced a couple under warranty when they weren't bad because this behavior wasn't recognized as being normal.
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Making headway on my repairs, got the bearing off of the motor, what I thought was wrong was not what I found, the plastic didn't swell, but the armature rubbing on the coil caused some of the armature to grind away, and since its a big magnet, it just stuck to the armature causing it to hang up.
I sanded everything down and cleaned it up, put some grease back in there and assembled it and it turns really easy now. Only thing left to do is to fix up the electrical connection where it melted, but that wont be that bad.
I have taken pictures of everything and will do a nice write up once I am done. I wonder if this controller was made by Garrett or Hino, if it was made by Garrett, this fix might apply to many different brands of trucks.
Excellent, I'm sure many people will be interested to see it!
Jideco makes some of the VNT controllers. Maybe all of them. There are three or four different versions, depending on year.
Well, it looks like my repairs didn't work, or I screwed up something else in the VNT. I was able to get the motor cleaned up and spinning freely, but when I pulled the bearing off the front of the motor, I think I messed the little board that senses if the motor is spinning.
Well, looks like I am going to have to go back to driving my Sprinter for now, and hopefully get some good trips so I can get a new one.
Dang. Can you post pics of the board, front and rear? Maybe it has a broken trace or something.
balance
Rookie Expediter
I plan to add my 6 months old battery from my old truck to my 2015 hino. my old battery has a threaded connector.
how do i access the battery tray, remove the rail (front nut and one in the back) and drop it in or just unscrew the front nut and the bottom driver side step to slide battery in?
where should i connect the third positive wire on to that block fuse (never seen that kind of large fuse)
where can i buy the positive covers and the plastic spray to spray on the connection after installation. They have really nice plastic on them now =)
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I find it's easier to maneuver the batteries in place with the step out of the way. That hold down bracket comes out easily once the front and rear bolts are removed.
Is there a particular reason you want to add a third battery? Unless it's extremely cold where you live, I wouldn't think it's necessary. Some people like to run their liftgate or reefer off of the third one, which is separated from the other two by a battery isolator.
I mentioned before that some of the newest trucks came with AGM batteries. The ones you have there don't look like the AGMs. They look like conventional batteries.
Napa ought to have those plastic covers. Be careful, it's a tight fit in there and it'd be really easy to short out something with your wrench.
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