Big Truck I work on Hino trucks. I'll answer any questions I know the answers to.

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balance

Rookie Expediter
I find it's easier to maneuver the batteries in place with the step out of the way. That hold down bracket comes out easily once the front and rear bolts are removed.

Is there a particular reason you want to add a third battery? Unless it's extremely cold where you live, I wouldn't think it's necessary. Some people like to run their liftgate or reefer off of the third one, which is separated from the other two by a battery isolator.

I mentioned before that some of the newest trucks came with AGM batteries. The ones you have there don't look like the AGMs. They look like conventional batteries.


Napa ought to have those plastic covers. Be careful, it's a tight fit in there and it'd be really easy to short out something with your wrench.

we do have a tail gate but don't use it often, if we do use it, I just leave the truck on. I'm base in Toronto, Ontario. There's few cold days in the winter here. Since I have the extra battery, i thought I should put it to good use. Never seen that square four holes fuse box before. Is that thing a fuse or battery isolator ? How would i connect the live wire to the their battery, one of the holes ok?

edit

nvm its a hi amp circuit breaker
http://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-Hi-Amp-Circuit-Breaker-Amps/dp/B0024JOKM4

do i need another one? if i install another battery? :/
 
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greasytshirt

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Mechanic

thedog

Rookie Expediter
Hey I have 2008 Hino that we just replaced the turbo on. When we first pulled it in we saw the turbo was going bad -- now we have a new one on it and all of a sudden the truck wont idol correctly sometimes it wont idol at all and go into shut down mode - -any Ideas?? need some help -- also shows a ton of codes now....
 

greasytshirt

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Hey I have 2008 Hino that we just replaced the turbo on. When we first pulled it in we saw the turbo was going bad -- now we have a new one on it and all of a sudden the truck wont idol correctly sometimes it wont idol at all and go into shut down mode - -any Ideas?? need some help -- also shows a ton of codes now....

What codes is it showing? Did this problem develop immediately after the turbo was installed, or did it run correctly for a while? It is rare for a turbo to cause a problem like this. I've seen twice where an old turbo with worn bearings seizes up and makes the truck stall, but that doesn't make sense in your case at all.

Did you remember to plug in the mass airflow sensor? Did leaves or dirt manage to get into it while the turbo was being replaced?
 

coalminer

Veteran Expediter
Retired Expediter
Well, I took a gamble and ordered a turbo that was listed on ebay as a "core". He listed it for $300, I offered $200 for it and he accepted. Pulled the actuator apart and the motor looked like it was brand new, I installed the motor and the electronics from the one I ordered onto my truck and it worked.

I hate to benefit from someone getting screwed, but the only thing that was wrong with it was the linkage was frozen. I now have an entire spare turbo for my truck for $200. Heck, this one looks cleaner than the one that was on my truck!!!!
 

coalminer

Veteran Expediter
Retired Expediter
I forgot to post this picture, this is the motor inside the actuator:

ImageUploadedByEO Forums1418349284.064683.jpg

See the burnt connector, my guess that is what happens when the linkage starts binding up and it takes more juice to get it to move.

I took the armature out of the motor and cleaned it up and made it turn smooth again, but when I pulled the bearing off I ruined the little circuit board on the front of the motor that has 3 Hall effect sensors that tell the brain the motor is moving

ImageUploadedByEO Forums1418349502.874234.jpg
 

Maxx

Seasoned Expediter
I have a 2009 Hino 268. The truck has 224000 miles on it and the dpr mantainance light is on. I have had the filter inspected and cleaned. Does someone know how to reset the message.
 

greasytshirt

Moderator
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Mechanic
I have a 2009 Hino 268. The truck has 224000 miles on it and the dpr mantainance light is on. I have had the filter inspected and cleaned. Does someone know how to reset the message.
It can only be reset using dealer software. I would have your ITV inspected and modified if it hasn't been done already, and have the exhaust brake reset to 12mm3. This will keep manual regens trouble free. If you want the ability to do a manual regen at any time, have them set the 'rental car flag' to 1.
 

greasytshirt

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Have you had the A8440/A8510 recalls done yet? If you haven't, you should. Call your dealer and give them the VIN. There may be open recalls.
 

allways

Rookie Expediter
You should be able to reset using the dash switches - let me know if you need the procedure. I do it on our fleet of 7 2009-2010 Hinos
 

coalminer

Veteran Expediter
Retired Expediter
I have another one for you, the company I run for has a 2007 338, I guess it has been using some coolant, but the last couple of days it started using more, and it wasn't going into the oil. This morning he was driving it, made a couple of bangs and that was it. It was towed to a shop, was wondering what you thought might have happened head gasket let loose into one of the cylinders?
 

greasytshirt

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I have another one for you, the company I run for has a 2007 338, I guess it has been using some coolant, but the last couple of days it started using more, and it wasn't going into the oil. This morning he was driving it, made a couple of bangs and that was it. It was towed to a shop, was wondering what you thought might have happened head gasket let loose into one of the cylinders?

That sounds bad. They don't really make banging noises. I would be prepared to see piston damage.
 

coalminer

Veteran Expediter
Retired Expediter
That sounds bad. They don't really make banging noises. I would be prepared to see piston damage.

That's what I'm thinking too, coolant rushing in and bam, there goes the piston rod since it can't compress the water.

They had just spent 3k fixing oil leaks on that engine too.
 

greasytshirt

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That's what I'm thinking too, coolant rushing in and bam, there goes the piston rod since it can't compress the water.

They had just spent 3k fixing oil leaks on that engine too.

Usually the head gaskets don't fail like that though. They'll leak coolant and oil from the right rear corner, and occasionally on the right center. Occasionally you'll find a broken head bolt on the right center. I can't recall ever seeing coolant enter a cylinder.

Sometimes the graphite rings between adjacent cylinders will disintegrate allowing combustion gases to enter the cooling system. This just blows coolant out of the overflow bottle.

Has this truck had particularly loud cold start chatter, or a cylinder nailing while going down the road? It could have been a bad injector overfueling and damaging a piston.

Another infrequent but devastating event is when the valves are never adjusted at all. These valves get looser over time, not tighter. Eventually so much play develops that the crosshead is able to jump up over the tip of the valves. It lands on top of the spring retainer. The next time the rocker presses down, the valve locks jump out of the retainers and it instantly drops one or both valves. I've never actually seen this, but I've heard about a couple of incidents. The valves are supposed to be adjusted every 50k. 10 times more miles than that without an adjustment is begging for a disaster.

Edit: Did it kick a rod out of the block? For curiosity's sake, if the pan comes off, get someone to look up at the bottom of the pistons. Have the wrist pin bushings started to drift out of the rods? They shouldn't be visible when looking up at them, but if you see one or more that might indicate a number of severe piston overheats, either from coolant loss or overfueling. I've rebuilt a couple of well abused 2007 engines with wrist pin bushings (which are pressed into place) loosen up. This is often paired with half of the piston crown having melted away due to overheated pistons being overfueled by leaking injectors.

Edit 2: Actually, we have an example of this in the shop right now. 2007 338. Terrible injectors were ignored forever, and coolant leaks never fixed. The owners only spent a dime on the truck when it failed to move.

Number 1 piston scuffed...badly. It had been chronically overfueled and nothing was ever done about it. This continued until half of the crown melted away and disappeared out of the exhaust pipe.

http://i.imgur.com/eD3sKJq.jpg

As the piston started welding itself to the cylinder wall, the rod started to bend. The rod has a compound bend. It was close to breaking. The piston, attached to a rod that was bent in two different directions, started to crack. The rod physically shorter because of the bends, allowed the crankshaft counterweights to hit the bottom of the piston. I don't know how long it was driven in this state, but it was driven at least 40 miles to our shop like this.

http://i.imgur.com/5SB364J.jpg

This is abuse, plain and simple. A small problem was allowed to develop into a larger one, and the larger problems were also ignored.
 
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coalminer

Veteran Expediter
Retired Expediter
I will see what I can find out, I know the person who drives this truck does a lot of miles and they don't like to put it in the shop for repairs.

How's this for ironic:

The carrier that i run for is out of Cleveland OH, I live in Lakeland FL and it broke down 10 miles from my house. My wife ended up picking him up and letting him take one of our cars to go visit friends who live close.

If it's a big repair bill I don't think he will fix it, might be my next project.....
 

greasytshirt

Moderator
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Mechanic
I will see what I can find out, I know the person who drives this truck does a lot of miles and they don't like to put it in the shop for repairs.

How's this for ironic:

The carrier that i run for is out of Cleveland OH, I live in Lakeland FL and it broke down 10 miles from my house. My wife ended up picking him up and letting him take one of our cars to go visit friends who live close.

If it's a big repair bill I don't think he will fix it, might be my next project.....

That would be interesting. If it hasnt holed the block, a rebuild would be pretty straightforward.
 

Maxx

Seasoned Expediter
Have you had the A8440/A8510 recalls done yet? If you haven't, you should. Call your dealer and give them the VIN. There may be open recalls.

Yes i have had these recalls done like a couple of months ago. The message just came in recently.
 

Maxx

Seasoned Expediter
You should be able to reset using the dash switches - let me know if you need the procedure. I do it on our fleet of 7 2009-2010 Hinos

Could you please let me know the procudure to reset it as the message keeps coming on everytime i restart the truck.
 

greasytshirt

Moderator
Staff member
Mechanic
Could you please let me know the procudure to reset it as the message keeps coming on everytime i restart the truck.

Look closely at the cruise control switch. The push button is marked "Mode". The set/reset toggle is marked a certain way too. I don't remember which is which. Anyway:

1. Turn the key on, after the “Hino” logo fades press the “mode” button repeatedly until “Maintenance 1” is displayed.
2. Press the “select” button until the display shows “DPR” with the mileage below.
3. Press and hold the “Mode” and “Set Reset” buttons simultaneously for approximately 40 seconds to reset the “DPR Maintenance” Message.
 
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