Sign up for The Wire Newsletter!

Big Truck I work on Hino trucks. I'll answer any questions I know the answers to.

Status
Not open for further replies.

greasytshirt

Moderator
Staff member
Mechanic
Offline
Hi I have been having some issues with my 2008 Hino 338. The truck loses power when the engine is working harder or it seems to be hotter outside and this causes the check engine light to come on. Sometimes it feels as though the truck wont make it up some of the hills it climbs. I am getting the P0087 code and the truck was recently brought to a dealer in the fall for recalls so everything is up to date recall wise. What my driver will do is turn the vehicle off and back on and the check engine light will go off and the truck has power again. Hoping to fix this in house to avoid the truck being pulled off the road and sent an hour away to a dealer. Thank you.

This is almost exclusively a fuel restriction.

Drain the tank and remove it. Remove both fittings from the top. Is there rust or chunks in the fittings? Its a narrow passage, stuff hangs up here. The tank is probably rusty. It needs to be very clean. If there is rust, address it or this problem will return.

Move over to the fuel filter. Remove the banjo bolts and adapter fittings from the filter housing. The inlet looooves to trap junk in the check valve. Blow out the line back to the tank. Clean out the fuel water separator and put a good fuel filter in it. I just about guarantee you'll find a blockage somewhere. A bumblebee in the fuel tank just cost one of our customers a $500 tow bill.
 
Last edited:

macpl

Rookie Expediter
Offline
Original radio, or aftermarket? I've seen some of the original ones do some stupid stuff.

Stock radio. I pull the fuse last night for radio. Drove with fuse out and no radio. came to check today and the radio is on. And yet there is no fuse.
 

greasytshirt

Moderator
Staff member
Mechanic
Offline
Stock radio. I pull the fuse last night for radio. Drove with fuse out and no radio. came to check today and the radio is on. And yet there is no fuse.

There is a constant 12v source and a keyed 12v source. If the keyed source is off but the radio is on, the radio is bad. If the keyed source has power but the key is off, the ignition switch may be bad, but I can't condemn anything without looking at a wiring diagram and seeing if there's another source for this rouge power.

Don't even bother getting a quote for a replacement radio from Hino. Get one from Best Buy, Walmart, or my favorite, Crutchfield: Car Stereo, Speakers, Home Theater, Pro Audio, 4k TV.
 

Delmolino

Seasoned Expediter
Offline
This is almost exclusively a fuel restriction.

Drain the tank and remove it. Remove both fittings from the top. Is there rust or chunks in the fittings? Its a narrow passage, stuff hangs up here. The tank is probably rusty. It needs to be very clean. If there is rust, address it or this problem will return.

Move over to the fuel filter. Remove the banjo bolts and adapter fittings from the filter housing. The inlet looooves to trap junk in the check valve. Blow out the line back to the tank. Clean out the fuel water separator and put a good fuel filter in it. I just about guarantee you'll find a blockage somewhere. A bumblebee in the fuel tank just cost one of our customers a $500 tow bill.

The tank is new we replaced it about 6 months to a year ago because the old steel tank rotted out. Replacing the fuel filter and cleaning out the fuel/water separator has fixed some issues. The check engine light doesn't turn on unless the truck is making an extended climb up a hill with a significant incline.

This may be a stupid question but it appears as though the line goes from tank>engine>filter>tank in that order.
 

greasytshirt

Moderator
Staff member
Mechanic
Offline
The tank is new we replaced it about 6 months to a year ago because the old steel tank rotted out. Replacing the fuel filter and cleaning out the fuel/water separator has fixed some issues. The check engine light doesn't turn on unless the truck is making an extended climb up a hill with a significant incline.

This may be a stupid question but it appears as though the line goes from tank>engine>filter>tank in that order.

The fuel takes the exact opposite route.


Good to hear on the tanks,but still check every elbow, adapter, and banjo bolt you encounter, including the adapters that thread into the filter housing, if they exist.

If all of that is clean, replace the scv. I described how earlier in the thread. If that doesn't solve it, it may be the rail pressure limiter, but we're stepping into the realm of throwing parts at it at that point which becomes expewnsive and futile very quickly.


Ok, forget everytghing I just said. Get a 5 gallon can of clean diesel. Plumb it directly into the pump intake. Hold the truck wide open up the steepest hill you can find. Does the check engine light come on? If not, fuel restriction. If yes,scv replacement.
 

Jojo22

Rookie Expediter
Offline
I currently own a 2007 185 hino box truck with about 200k miles. Last Friday I heard a band from under the cab as I could no longer put the truck into gear. I was able to get off the highway saftely and I had my truck towed later in the morning. The truck will turn on but has a rattleing sound coming from the transmission. I can swift gears from drive to reverse, but the truck won't move at all. At first I thought it was the drive shaft, but my mechanic said something is broke or loose inside the transmission. I'm just worried about how much this is going to cost me! If you have any ideas about what's wrong or advice it will be much appreciated. Thanks
 

greasytshirt

Moderator
Staff member
Mechanic
Offline
I currently own a 2007 185 hino box truck with about 200k miles. Last Friday I heard a band from under the cab as I could no longer put the truck into gear. I was able to get off the highway saftely and I had my truck towed later in the morning. The truck will turn on but has a rattleing sound coming from the transmission. I can swift gears from drive to reverse, but the truck won't move at all. At first I thought it was the drive shaft, but my mechanic said something is broke or loose inside the transmission. I'm just worried about how much this is going to cost me! If you have any ideas about what's wrong or advice it will be much appreciated. Thanks

Hmm. Allison or Aisin? There will be a tag on the side of the case. Or can you take a pic of the transmission and post it?

You might be in luck (relatively speaking) and have a broken flexplate. It happens if certain steps aren't taken if the trans has ever been out before.
 

epoxyman

Seasoned Expediter
Offline
Took my little 2014 195 Hino in today for its 1st service and now I just wish I took it to a diff dealer I made a time for it to be dropped off over a week ago and was told to be at the dealer at 7am. I left my house at 5am cause its over 100 miles one way got to the dealer and the guy could not find any info on my call in to setup the time.

So I asked can you do the service today? sure but it will take some time to get you in.... Ok so back home I drive my wife came up in her truck. They close around 6pm so I called them at 1pm to see how my truck was doing well I was told they have not even got to it yet maybe Tue or even Wed :mad: I was if you can not do it Ill just come and get my truck then well Ill call you back give me 5 min.

So he calls back and they can do the service and I can now get it back at 6pm
ok well when I get there the guy wants me to pay for the service :eek: I was like I thought it was with the Hino care that came with the truck. He gives me my keys and keeps all the paper work and says your truck is on the side of the building. :rolleyes: They are closing as we are trying to leave and now I go to start my truck and it takes like 3 times at 5 to 10 sec of the motor turning over befor it will start :mad:

I stopped to get fuel and again 3 try's of 5 to 10 sec of the motor turning over befor it will start. (kind of like when I change my wife's fuel filter in her dodge 3500 takes a few to get it going but once it starts its good from there on)

He did say they did two diff updates to the truck's computer and they are waiting for a part to come in for a diff recall something about a hose ?

Well after a ride back home 100+ miles I shut it off let it set for about 30min and it did fire right back up I just wonder what was wrong with it befor I love my little truck and do not want to mess it up by the hard starting.

I am going to call them in the AM and get my paper work and see what they did and did not do.

Ill get off my soap box now
Ron.
 

greasytshirt

Moderator
Staff member
Mechanic
Offline
So he calls back and they can do the service and I can now get it back at 6pm
ok well when I get there the guy wants me to pay for the service :eek: I was like I thought it was with the Hino care that came with the truck. He gives me my keys and keeps all the paper work and says your truck is on the side of the building. :rolleyes:

We hired a girl to do all of the warranty and special service paperwork. It takes some experience to navigate the system. Sounds like they just wanted some easy money.

They are closing as we are trying to leave and now I go to start my truck and it takes like 3 times at 5 to 10 sec of the motor turning over befor it will start


I stopped to get fuel and again 3 try's of 5 to 10 sec of the motor turning over befor it will start. (kind of like when I change my wife's fuel filter in her dodge 3500 takes a few to get it going but once it starts its good from there on)

I mentioned the fuel filter can be pesky, right? I told someone here about that. Yeeaaah, it takes some practice to get the cap back on without cutting the o-ring and getting the air out. They didn't get all the air out. You can drive it like that safely, but it can take a long time to purge it all. There is a bleeder at the top of the filter housing, but if it's running, I'd consider just leaving it alone because sometimes screwing that in and out too many times will cut the bleeder screw o-ring.

Keep an eye on your parking area for a few days after each service. The cap o-ring is easy to mess up, it'll shear around the perimeter and start leaking a few days later.

I would consider getting a couple of filter kits and a few extra cap and bleeder screw o-rings in case someone really fouls it up. All you need is a 14mm wrench (and either a drain pan or park somewhere where no one will notice the lake of fuel you're going to spill). Every time the cap comes off, replace the o-ring. Put a very liberal amount of vaseline on the cap o-ring (blob it on there). Use the cap bolt to press the cap on, don't try to push the cap down then start the bolt. Pump the hand primer until it gets hard. Slooowly loosen the top bleeder. It'll let no fuel out until you get a couple turns on it, then it'll come rushing out. Slowly pump the primer until all the air comes out. It'll take several pumps. While fuel is still coming out of the bleeder, tighten the bleeder by hand (don't let any air get in). Snug it a little with a wrench. Gently.


He did say they did two diff updates to the truck's computer and they are waiting for a part to come in for a diff recall something about a hose ?

A couple of the external DEF lines are getting changed from aluminum to stainless steel for better resistance to road salt corrosion.


Well after a ride back home 100+ miles I shut it off let it set for about 30min and it did fire right back up I just wonder what was wrong with it befor I love my little truck and do not want to mess it up by the hard starting.


I am going to call them in the AM and get my paper work and see what they did and did not do.


Ill get off my soap box now
Ron.

Your new truck (and you) deserve to be treated with some respect. Tell them that it still had air in it and it started hard for a while. If they don't give a crap, then call Hino and file a complaint. Someone did that to us once (I think the new PM kid left a huge blob of grease on the seat or radio or something) and it was like a bomb went off in the office.

I can't say anything about that though, because I left a half-full Mt Dew in a forum member's truck when they stopped by my shop. oops! I was wondering where that went.
 

epoxyman

Seasoned Expediter
Offline
Thanks for the info back. Where is the best place to order these parts and do you have the part numbers handy for what I would need? I will keep a eye to see if it starts to leak I think I may try a diff dealer over by Orlando Fl. its about hour from me for the next service at I think 9,000 miles.

Once again thanks.
Ron.
 

greasytshirt

Moderator
Staff member
Mechanic
Offline
Thanks for the info back. Where is the best place to order these parts and do you have the part numbers handy for what I would need? I will keep a eye to see if it starts to leak I think I may try a diff dealer over by Orlando Fl. its about hour from me for the next service at I think 9,000 miles.

Once again thanks.
Ron.

The secondary fuel filter is probably proprietary to Hino, so you'll have to get it from a dealer. If you want to make it easy, I can give you my shop's number. Our parts guy will know exactly what you are talking about and he can ship them right to you.
 

macpl

Rookie Expediter
Offline
There is a constant 12v source and a keyed 12v source. If the keyed source is off but the radio is on, the radio is bad. If the keyed source has power but the key is off, the ignition switch may be bad, but I can't condemn anything without looking at a wiring diagram and seeing if there's another source for this rouge power.

Don't even bother getting a quote for a replacement radio from Hino. Get one from Best Buy, Walmart, or my favorite, Crutchfield: Car Stereo, Speakers, Home Theater, Pro Audio, 4k TV.

Yeahfor the time being I am just going to put a battery kill switch. But the radio has stayed off for the past two days. As for aftermarket radio do I need a aftermarket adapter and would best buy have it. I know they have for cars what bout for hino lol
 

greasytshirt

Moderator
Staff member
Mechanic
Offline
Yeahfor the time being I am just going to put a battery kill switch. But the radio has stayed off for the past two days. As for aftermarket radio do I need a aftermarket adapter and would best buy have it. I know they have for cars what bout for hino lol

That's a good question. I don't like hacking connectors off if I can help it. Take the old radio in with you and see if you can find something that will plug into it. Then you can splice that and the pigtail of the new radio together.

An independent car stereo shop probably has more of this stuff tucked away, and more knowledge than your average peon at best buy. That might be the better route, even if you pay a couple bucks more.

Crutchfield might even be able to identify the correct adapter if you call or email them with your radio model number. They have always been very helpful and friendly when I've dealt with them.
 

macpl

Rookie Expediter
Offline
Ok thanks. Just gonna go with A kill switch for now.

And to the guy with pover loss when climbing hills and seems like fuel restriction. Check to see if the sensor on water separator is gone as this was one problem I had with no power due to that senor being faulty.
 

greasytshirt

Moderator
Staff member
Mechanic
Offline
And to the guy with pover loss when climbing hills and seems like fuel restriction. Check to see if the sensor on water separator is gone as this was one problem I had with no power due to that senor being faulty.

Sorry to interject, but all that sensor does is turn on the light on the dash. But yes, it should be kept in a functional state.
 

Newby2diesel

Rookie Expediter
Offline
I'm currently looking at a 2006 hino 238. His ad says it's been sitting for awhile and doesn't rev over 2000 rpms. He also states "it has a CEL for the VNT controller. Would you know why and what does that mean? Could I also call you? If so, you could email me your number. Thanks.
 

greasytshirt

Moderator
Staff member
Mechanic
Offline
Would you know why and what does that mean?

Generally that means about $2800 if you do it yourself.

Seriously though, search through this thread.

The VNT controllers on these go bad for various reasons, including the linkage getting bound up. About 30-40% of the time you can lube up the VNT linkage with Loctite Aerosol Nickel Antiseize and work it back and forth. If the motor inside the VNT isn't fried, that may be enough to get it to work again, sometimes for a long time.

But the parts for these aren't International DT466 cheap.

Send me a PM.
 

Liam

Rookie Expediter
Fleet Manager
Offline
Greasytshirt,

I am having a problem with 2008 Hino 268A with 180,000 miles. Got the DPF filter cleaned about 500 miles ago. Today the manual regen light came on 3 times. There are no bars on the display and it asked to run the DPF again. Any thoughts as to what might be going on. Not sure if the driver today had the exhaust brake on all day and was interrupting and auto regens. I am very concerned that this could be expensive. Hoping it is something as simple as a sensor replacement.

Thanks for you help
 

greasytshirt

Moderator
Staff member
Mechanic
Offline
Greasytshirt,

I am having a problem with 2008 Hino 268A with 180,000 miles. Got the DPF filter cleaned about 500 miles ago. Today the manual regen light came on 3 times. There are no bars on the display and it asked to run the DPF again. Any thoughts as to what might be going on. Not sure if the driver today had the exhaust brake on all day and was interrupting and auto regens. I am very concerned that this could be expensive. Hoping it is something as simple as a sensor replacement.

Thanks for you help

Hi there,

Edit: Is the check engine light on? Check for inactive codes in the dash. Push the mode button until system check comes up. Press up to select. Press up and hold to access inactive codes. press up to cycle through them. Post them here.

Edit #2:
Today the manual regen light came on 3 times.

You mean it started alarming, and the DPF button light started flashing? If not, where on the dash was this light?
Are you sure it was not the exhaust brake light? They are very similar.



I answer questions like this one like I'm addressing an audience.

2008-2010 trucks have a DOC and DPF, no DEF to worry about.

The DPF heating is accomplished by post injection and help from the exhaust brake.
EGR is shut off. The intake throttle valve (ITV) opens all the way up. The VNT moves to limit turbo boost (you want excess fuel so it burns hot).

This is what happens if everything is working correctly. Engine runs at 980 rpm, the exhaust brake closes, extra fuel is injected (to both overcome the restriction of the exhaust brake, and it's injected late so it's burning outside of the engine). The exhaust starts heating up. At around 400F, the DOC (diesel oxidation catalyst) lights off and the temperature quicky eclipses 1000 degrees. The inlet temp settles out at around 1030F, and the ecu maintains that temp via changing injection quantity. The outlet temp starts rising. Once it gets up to around 850 or so, the soot starts burning off. It'll maintain that temp for around 10 minutes, maybe more if the differential pressure across the DPF is high. Then it stops post injection and opens the exhaust brake. Voila!

An unsuccessful regen means one of two things: It didn't get up to temp, or the temp is comparable to the surface of the sun.

If the DPF becomes a fusion reactor, the first thing to check is the ITV. Take the CAC outlet hose off and look inside the thing that looks like a throttle body. There's a throttle plate in there. Grab it and wiggle. Is there any side to side play? Is the plate loose? If so, try to hit a mailbox with it on your way to the dealership. The ITV should also have three holes drilled into the bottom of the throttle plate. They are going to look like they are hand drilled (because they are). If not, take the ITV off of the engine and find a sharp 3mm (1/8th is close enough) drill bit. Scribe a circular line 8mm above the BOTTOM edge of the plate. Put a punch mark in the 6 o'clock position. 20 degrees away, on either side, along the line you scribed, put another two punch marks. Like the bottom of a peace symbol. I hope that makes sense. Anyway, you're gonna drill these three holes. The brass plate is pretty hard, and your bit is gonna drift a bit, but luckily this doesn't have to be perfect. Deburr the holes and clean everything when you're done. Do this to the new ITV if you had to replace your old one.

The reason you are doing this is to help the motor that turns the plate, in case the plate gets stuck in place from all the mung and crap that builds up behind it. You are just creating enough of an air leak to allow the plate to open easier, but not too much to disrupt EGR flow with the plate partially closed. If the truck sounds like a Chevy 350 with the distributor advanced too far while it's starting up, it'll fix that, too.

Well, unless your injectors need to be replaced. Which is the #1 reason for excess soot and frequent regens. Well, if the ITV has not been modified, that should be done first. Then you can get around to blaming the injectors.

But first, especially if you're pretty sure the injectors are kind of crappy already, you need to go to the dealer and get the exhaust brake reset. As injectors degrade and start to leak, the ecu will trim back injection quantity. The exhaust brake setting will have stayed the same, and that means too much fuel will be injected with the exhaust brake on. Having this adjusted correctly is crucial.

Now, before you spend a dime, call your local dealer and give him the VIN, and see if the A8440/A8510 recalls pertain to your truck. If so, take it in. They'll inspect the DPF and replace it if it's messed up, no questions asked. Then they will adjust the exhaust brake. The computer will get reflashed at the same time. You can pay them to inspect, replace, and/or modify the ITV at the same time (ITV not part of the recall), or you can do it yourself.

If you're lucky, the temp sensor in the middle of the DPF will break off (they often do), and you'll get a new one of those for free.

Other causes of excess soot in the DPF include butt turrible air filters, engines that are massively overfilled with oil, and turbos barfing oil into the CAC (they all pass a little oil anyway, but if it's dripping out, consider replacing the turbo).

Yet another thing that can cause frequent regens is broken wires on the harness side of the DPF temp sensors (especially the upstream one). Vibration in this area sometimes causes an internal break in the harness. You can load test the circuit with a headlight bulb and a 12v source, but you'll need a wiring diagram to identify which pins to mess with on the ecu connectors. If you don't know what I'm talking about, ignore the suggestion about load testing. Really avoid sticking anything with an energized power probe. That can go bad in an instant.



If the DPR switch is blinking with no bars on the dash, I think that's an indication that the truck was shut off while it was doing a manual regen. Not sure. That's a bit unusual.

There's also a thing called white smoke mode which engages when it's cold out and the truck has been idling for a while. It'll rev itself up a little, turn on the exhaust brake by itself, and the brake will not turn off until you start driving. This one messes with people's heads.




TL;DR: Inspect ITV, modify if necessary, call dealer and see if your truck is part of A8440/A8510 recalls, don't overfill with oil, change your air filter occasionally, Don't go fiddling with the exhaust brake once it's been adjusted, don't drive with the exhaust brake on all the time. Replace your injectors if they are hella crappy.
 
Last edited:

greasytshirt

Moderator
Staff member
Mechanic
Offline
Wow, I didn't mean that to read like The Sound and The Fury.

Talk about stream of consciousness!
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top