Big Truck I work on Hino trucks. I'll answer any questions I know the answers to.

[greasytshirt]

hi again... ecm is in the fuse box in the cab right??? the 21 .22 pin read 3.1,, 1.9. what do u think??

Yes, the ecm is right under the fuse panel.

Those voltages are very odd.

The fuel pump should be making maximum pressure right now, but it's still not starting.

Something tells me you've got a problem with the ecm. Either it's not grounded properly, it's getting insufficient voltage, it's receiving bad information (like from a harness fault), or the ecm itself is faulty. I doubt the fuel pump, egr valve, VNT, and whatever else all failed simultaneously. It's really hard to say exactly what it is at this point.

This would be a whole lot easier to diagnose with the dealer software attached to it.

This is not something that you can simply swap another ecm into. Each computer is programmed with VIN information specific to every truck. It would register fault codes for improper VIN. It might run, but I'm not sure.

At the data link connector (16 pin), starting from lower right and working right to left, check the voltages at pins 6 and 14. They will line up, one on the top of the other. If these voltages aren't at approximately 2.3 and 2.6, you've got a CAN network error which means that the ecm can't communicate properly with anything.

 

[lippy]

Im gonna take it in... Ill let u know wht it is... Thank u so much for all your help !!!!!!!

 

[greasytshirt]

Im gonna take it in... Ill let u know wht it is... Thank u so much for all your help !!!!!!!

Sorry It couldn't easily be fixed.

Since I've been working on Hinos, I've never condemned a Hino ecu until today. It was getting both exhaust brake switch and dpf regen button input, but would respond to neither.

 

[lippy]

The shop is telling me it looks like it is the injector pump !! but they r still running tests.. Ill keep u in the loop... thanx again!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[greasytshirt]

The shop is telling me it looks like it is the injector pump !! but they r still running tests.. Ill keep u in the loop... thanx again!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I figured the fuel pump may have been the culprit, but that's not the kind of answer I can tell a fella over the internet. It'd be kind of embarrassing to tell you to spend $2k and be wrong.

This kind of problem is most quickly (and accurately) solved using Hino's diagnostic software.

Those CAN codes for the VNT and EGR valves are still kind of worrisome.

 

[Angil82]

Brought my hino in to greasytshirts shop. Was very impressed by the work performed, the time it took, and the bill at the end. No more Michigan shops for me !

 

[greasytshirt]

Brought my hino in to greasytshirts shop. Was very impressed by the work performed, the time it took, and the bill at the end. No more Michigan shops for me !

What can I say? We actually care.

 

[greasytshirt]

I have a question. You have been very helpful with others questions and hope you can point me in right direction.

I have a 2009 Hino 258 that has a regen problem. Check eng light is on and code P2002 indicates Regen malfunction. It seems the switch on the dash to regen does not work. I have Hino-DX and under function test, manual regen, it wont allow me to start the test. The button on dash simply does nothing. I swapped switches with another truck, and still nothing. (Switch works fine in other Hino).
Just bought the truck, and light came on 1500 miles after purchase.

So its not the switch, the bars are at 10 due to miles (165K), and apparently I didn't recognize or look at that when buying and inspecting.
Has new Turbo, injectors and Cat(dealer did about 1 year ago according to Prev Owner)

So Cant get it to regen.. What should I do?

Uncle Dave

I suspect the accelerator pedal sensor is damaged. If it sees any throttle input, the dpr switch will not function.

 

[EDDIESACCC]

In need of some assistance, we are a towing business and have a 2012 Hino 258 flatbed and have had nothing but problems since we hit 100k. For starters the problems our hino dealer cannot figure out is the brake light is on very dim, flashes only when the right blinker Is on, and goes off when you apply the brakes. Second, on Wednesday our driver said the AT light was flashing so he pulled over turned the truck off and restarted, the light was off. He got a couple miles up the road and it seemed like the truck was only driving in first and second gear. So he pulled off the freeway to a gas station, shut it off and restarted, the light immediately came back on and when put into gear it slammed into first, so we had it taken to the closest Hino dealer under Hino-Watch and they said its a transmission issue and they don't deal with the Allison trans, so it was taken across the street to an Allison shop and they couldn't find anything. No codes, no wiring issues, no light was on, and no driving issues. That is about an hour and a half away from our shop so we drove it back here last night no problems. We are taking it 5 hours away today so fingers crossed no issues but does anyone have thoughts on this??

 

[greasytshirt]

In need of some assistance, we are a towing business and have a 2012 Hino 258 flatbed and have had nothing but problems since we hit 100k. For starters the problems our hino dealer cannot figure out is the brake light is on very dim, flashes only when the right blinker Is on, and goes off when you apply the brakes. Second, on Wednesday our driver said the AT light was flashing so he pulled over turned the truck off and restarted, the light was off. He got a couple miles up the road and it seemed like the truck was only driving in first and second gear. So he pulled off the freeway to a gas station, shut it off and restarted, the light immediately came back on and when put into gear it slammed into first, so we had it taken to the closest Hino dealer under Hino-Watch and they said its a transmission issue and they don't deal with the Allison trans, so it was taken across the street to an Allison shop and they couldn't find anything. No codes, no wiring issues, no light was on, and no driving issues. That is about an hour and a half away from our shop so we drove it back here last night no problems. We are taking it 5 hours away today so fingers crossed no issues but does anyone have thoughts on this??

Is the abs light on? That will unlock the torque converter and make the trans overheat.replace the range selector switch and transmission wiring harness. Allison ecus don't save codes, they'd have to drive it until it barfs.

Rollbacks have crappy grounds on the beds. Run a ground strap across the pivot from the bed to the frame.

 

[greasytshirt]

Who has a 2011 Hino with a six cylinder engine?

If you hear a noticeable tick develop, and a valve adjustment doesn't fix it, you need to take some immediate action.

Drain the oil, and remove the oil pan. With a strong flashlight, look up at the bottom of the pistons. What you are looking for is evidence of the wrist pin bushing drifting out of the small end of the rod. The wrist pin bushing shouldn't really be visible from this angle, so if you see it, there's a problem. Get it on over to your local dealer and get a case started.

 

[greasytshirt]

In need of some assistance, we are a towing business and have a 2012 Hino 258 flatbed and have had nothing but problems since we hit 100k.

One thing that we like to do specifically for trucks like rollbacks (that do a lot of start and stop and idling) is to give it the ability to do a manual regen at any time. This can be accomplished with the dealer software. If a technician was to connect to the engine ecu, go to the customization menu, and go to (I think) the initial setting menu, there's a line in there for RENTAL vehicles. If the value is changed from 0 to 1, the truck will do a manual regen whenever the DPR button on the dash is pushed. No more waiting for it to hit three bars or higher. This is helpful if you know that the truck is going to try to regen soon, and it's time for a lunch break or whatever. You can then push the button, complete the regen, and it won't interfere with what you are doing later.

You probably already know that when the DPR graph hits three bars, it will attempt to do an automatic regen. If the exhaust brake is used during an auto regen, or if the truck comes to a stop and sits a while, it'll have to stop the regen and go through a period of ignitor cleaning.

For trucks with PTOs (like rollbacks and garbage trucks), there's also a method to do a manual regen with the PTO on and the engine rpm raised to whatever PTO speed is selected. I can't recall how to do this offhand, and there's no official method for doing this. However, If I look at the customization menu, I'll remember what I did, and I can pass that on.

I could not figure out a method to get this to work with the automatic idle-up PTO option. You'd have to manually select the desired PTO speed with the cruise switches.

The idle knob wasn't really meant for idling up the engine for PTO usage. It'll only raise the idle up to 980RPM (although it can be programmed to go higher, but that defeats its original purpose). If your PTO switches do not function to raise PTO rpm, they can be programmed to do so. You can also have the PTO activation switch (that the body-builder provides) hardwired to the computer to automatically raise the rpm whenever the PTO is turned on.

If your only option for raising PTO rpm is the idler knob, then your body builder didn't know that all of this existed (which is pretty common).

 

[Rburg]

im working on a 2006 hino 268 with a allison 2000series trans. when going around a corner or even on a straight away unit seems to loose throttle responce. no codes in engine or trans. i have to shut the truck off and let it sit for a bit and start in up and away we go again. sometime it takes a few hundred miles to get it to act up and sometimes it only takes a few miles. any suggestions???

 

[greasytshirt]

im working on a 2006 hino 268 with a allison 2000series trans. when going around a corner or even on a straight away unit seems to loose throttle responce. no codes in engine or trans. i have to shut the truck off and let it sit for a bit and start in up and away we go again. sometime it takes a few hundred miles to get it to act up and sometimes it only takes a few miles. any suggestions???

Air or juice brakes?

 

[Rburg]

air brakes. no abs codes

 

[greasytshirt]

air brakes. no abs codes

On the service brake relay valve, there is a pressure switch. Unplug it. Does the problem go away?

 

[Rburg]

it is a very intermittent problem that we have not been able to duplicated. we have drove it multiple times multiple miles. i will try disconnecting the psi switch and see what happens? Will this illuminate the brake light or abs light??

 

[Rburg]

have you ever ran into this problem before or heard of this problem??? thanks

 

[greasytshirt]

have you ever ran into this problem before or heard of this problem??? thanks

Yes.

Sometimes, you mash the accelerator to the floor, and the darn thing barely responds, right? Particularly exciting when you're pulling into traffic. Does that sound like what you're dealing with?

If so, on the air brake trucks, this switch goes bad sometimes. It's sole purpose is to tell the ecu that the brakes are applied. The ecu in turn limits the amount of fuel injected. Basically, it's to keep people from power-braking it. If the switch is failing or there's an unintended source of voltage here, the ecu will refuse to allow acceleration. It does not set codes in any computer.


Very recently, a member of this forum and her husband stopped by my shop with similar symptoms, and it was this switch. I think it cost something like $35.

 

[Rburg]

where is this switch located??? the only switch i can find is on the park brake valve back by the rear axle. its not on the foot (treadle) valve is it??? thank you for all your help