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Big Truck I work on Hino trucks. I'll answer any questions I know the answers to.

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greasytshirt

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If there's truly no fuel restriction, no power out of the hole, P0087, and the brake switches are not the cause, then an SCV is a reasonable thing to try.

You may want to check the rail pressure relief valve for leakage too. Generally this causes a P0087 only at full throttle, high load. The banjo bolt and hard line need to be removed from it and blocked, leaving the relief valve open to the atmosphere. Nothing should come out of it, whether at idle or full throttle. They sometimes pop open when the SCV sticks, and they are damaged when they open. They can only do it a few times before leaking.
 

epoxyman

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Hi guys new to this form.

I am looking at a (new to me) 2014 195 Hino demo truck.
It has around 3,500 miles on it and I can get a good price on it.

But when I took it for a test drive with the salesman the Exhaust brake was not working or the light in the dash to tell me it was on. Is this something I should worry about?

As I said only 3,500 miles and the
Exhaust brake wont work :confused:
Also this will be my first Hino truck
is there any pro or cons to this truck ?

We will use it in our work we do flooring and carry a ton of tools and mat.
Should I ask for a print out of any work done on the truck befor I buy?

I was told it was a demo and they sell them after 6 months.

Thanks Ron.
 

greasytshirt

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Hi guys new to this form.

I am looking at a (new to me) 2014 195 Hino demo truck.
It has around 3,500 miles on it and I can get a good price on it.

But when I took it for a test drive with the salesman the Exhaust brake was not working or the light in the dash to tell me it was on. Is this something I should worry about?

As I said only 3,500 miles and the
Exhaust brake wont work :confused:
Also this will be my first Hino truck
is there any pro or cons to this truck ?

We will use it in our work we do flooring and carry a ton of tools and mat.
Should I ask for a print out of any work done on the truck befor I buy?

I was told it was a demo and they sell them after 6 months.

Thanks Ron.

Hi there.

The little 195 COEs are cool little trucks. Unlike the 2005-2014 conventional chassis trucks, the COE is entirely Japanese in manufacture.

There is no reason why the exhaust brake can't be easily fixed under warranty. It sounds like it's just in the switch. Ain't the first time a big stalk was grabbed and yanked by someone thinking it was a column shifter. For all we know, someone may have been in the customization menus for some reason and accidently disabled it.

Gone is the fairly problematic burner system used on the 11-14 conventionals. Instead, all of the cabovers are using a combination of a fifth fuel injector, post injection, and exhaust catalysts to raise temps for fast scr warmups and for regen heat. We've sold several of these trucks, none have had problems with regens.

The architecture of the engine has been around for 20-30 years or more. It's a tough engine, but they don't take kindly to multiple 250+ degree overheats. They'll pop a head gasket if this happens. The only transmission available is an Aisin, and it's also a well proven design. The only thing that goes wrong on the transmissions (that I've seen) is the range switch on the shift selector shaft sometimes craps out, and it takes an ATF with a Toyota specification.

Definitely ask for any work history, and also have them go into the computer and retrieve the 'system protection data'. It's the tattle-tale part of the truck's history.

Are you planning on doing your own vehicle maintenance? If so, there's a couple tricks you'll want to know before diving in headfirst.

These things can get pretty impressive fuel economy if driven sanely.

Parts are above average in price.

Whoever does the work needs to have a bit of finesse. You know, like actually using a torque wrench sometimes. When the Japanese publish torque specs, they kinda assumed that people would actually use them. Haha!

All in all, most of our customers that have a COE have been very happy with them.
 

epoxyman

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Thanks for the info back very helpful.
Have also been looking at the 2014 Isuzu npr box truck has a gas motor 16' box and life gate and its like $15,000 less then the Hino 195. I love the Hino drives great and has good power
But its hard to pay that much diff in price. Well have to do some thinking on this one.

Once again thanks for the info you were great help.
Ron.
 

greasytshirt

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Thanks for the info back very helpful.
Have also been looking at the 2014 Isuzu npr box truck has a gas motor 16' box and life gate and its like $15,000 less then the Hino 195. I love the Hino drives great and has good power
But its hard to pay that much diff in price. Well have to do some thinking on this one.

Once again thanks for the info you were great help.
Ron.

No problem.

What's powering the Isuzu? GM LS engine? The NPRs with the Chevy 350s were always disappointing slugs, IMO. An LS engine would probably do alright, power-wise.
 

epoxyman

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Yea I have not test drove the Isuzu yet but I know its a V8 gas and on the site it says
Engine GMPT L96 (Gen IV) V8 Vortec 6000

In my box truck now its a 08 Chevy with a V8 6.0 in it. The last thing I want is to spend this kind of money and be under powered. Live in FL. so driving in the hill are not a concern.

We carry about 2,500 lbs in tools all the time then + what ever mat we need for the job.
Just do not what to buy to little of a truck and with the Hino 195 I think would do us great.

Ron.
 

greasytshirt

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Yea I have not test drove the Isuzu yet but I know its a V8 gas and on the site it says
Engine GMPT L96 (Gen IV) V8 Vortec 6000

In my box truck now its a 08 Chevy with a V8 6.0 in it. The last thing I want is to spend this kind of money and be under powered. Live in FL. so driving in the hill are not a concern.

We carry about 2,500 lbs in tools all the time then + what ever mat we need for the job.
Just do not what to buy to little of a truck and with the Hino 195 I think would do us great.

Ron.


The L96 is light years ahead of the 350 of yesteryear, and even better than the MkIV big blocks. It outta do fairly well, but I'd still like a diesel. Maybe I'm biased.

They came with different horsepower/torque ratings. I'd test drive a similar gasser, if possible.

Here's some engine specs for the L96. GM 6.0 Liter V8 Vortec L96 Engine Info, Power, Specs, Wiki | GM Authority

Here's an article on LS engines with a surprise ending. Stock GM LS Engine - Big Bang Theory - Hot Rod Magazine
 

epoxyman

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Good info in your post about the GM specs.
After thinking about it I am going to wait about 4-6 months and pay more for the Hino.

Its around 14,750 total more then the gas Isuzu but I think its worth it in the long run.
I too like the diesel have a 2010 dodge 3500 Cummins and could not ask for more then it dose or pulls.
So you may see me back here in a few months after I get the Hino asking more lol.

As far as maintenance I do my dodge Oil changes and fuel filters and that's about it for me.
The rest I take to a shop here in town. But I will make sure I find a good shop to work on my new truck :D

Also the dealer told me that the Hino will not get over 65mph on the road is that true?
Dose not matter to me cause I will be the one driving it and I am not a speeder anyway.

Ron.
 

greasytshirt

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Also the dealer told me that the Hino will not get over 65mph on the road is that true?
Dose not matter to me cause I will be the one driving it and I am not a speeder anyway.

Ron.

This dealer...is it a Hino dealer?

I've had a cabover up to 75-80.

Sounds like the speed limiter has been set to a low number, like 63 mph.
This, and a bunch of other customization parameters can only be accessed with Hino Diagnostic Explorer software.
 

davekc

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I have a friend who is a fleet owner and had some Hino's that could get his to 70 mph. He did say his wife was tired all the time from pushing it. :cool:
 

epoxyman

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Yea its a Hino dealer here in Fl. Thanks for the info I know a few weeks back I was running around 65 and a little Hino passed me and was gone so he was hitting at lest 75 +

As far as the maintenance I will do the oil change / Fuel filter / Air filter. About how many miles till it will need a dealers service work ? Also he was saying to keep a eye on the water fuel thing on the side of the cab and make sure to run good clean fuel too.

Ron.
 

greasytshirt

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Yea its a Hino dealer here in Fl. Thanks for the info I know a few weeks back I was running around 65 and a little Hino passed me and was gone so he was hitting at lest 75 +

As far as the maintenance I will do the oil change / Fuel filter / Air filter. About how many miles till it will need a dealers service work ? Also he was saying to keep a eye on the water fuel thing on the side of the cab and make sure to run good clean fuel too.

Ron.

Hinos really, really like clean fuel and fresh filters. It keeps the injectors in good shape. Their recommended intervals are something like 20k miles, but we've seen some engine wear with oil change intervals pushed that far apart. Besides, they only hold about 12 quarts of oil. 10k mile services are what I'd shoot for.

The fuel filters on these are frankly a bit ridiculous. There's a few pretty delicate o-rings involved, and mashing it together causes leaks. Air is easy to trap in the filter housing.

To avoid these problems, we do this: Completely remove drain screw and filter cap. Drain entire fuel filter housing. Replace o-ring on drain screw, reinstall. Replace filter element. Replace o-ring on cap. Lubricate o-ring on cap with engine oil. Set cap on fuel filter, use center bolt to draw the cap down. For some reason, any attempt to press the cap in place then threading the bolt in will cut the o-ring. Every time you remove the cap, the o-ring needs to be replaced, or it will leak. At this point, remove the bleeder screw, replace the o-ring, lube 0-ring, but before reinstalling it, work the primer pump until bubble-free fuel comes out. At that point, install the bleeder screw.

At the shop, I hook a mityvac suction pump up to the bleeder screw to draw fuel through the system and pull all the air out.

If the bleeder is removed while the engine is running, it will quickly bleed the system, and also cause a green diesel fuel shower all over you and anyone standing nearby. Not that I have any first hand knowledge of that or anything.

Anyway, it's not so bad after you figure out how to do it. A long crank time indicates that there's still air in the system, and more bleeding is required.

Your dealership sounds kind of...slow. They should know these things. They should know how to set the speed limiter, and they should know how to fix the exhaust brake, and they should know how to get paid to do it under warranty. They should fix all of this to your satisfaction before you give them any money. My two cents.
 

Flatlander

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I have a 2005 Hino 145, it had a dead short, which we eventually found but during our search we removed the alternator, when we pulled it out accidentally pulled apart the wire from the coupler that connects to the temperature sender. (The wire is strapped to the back of the alternator arm). 4 wires go into this connector. We re-assembled it the way it looked like it was (same twist on the wire) but lately have had some problems with temperature readings (truck hasn't been driven that much since we found the short). do you have a wiring diagram, and maybe a picture of the plug, so we can tell if we wired it right?? The wires are bared, and push in the back of the plug with those little rubber grommets holding them in.

A lot to ask, but i thought maybe...
Thanks,
Doug
 

greasytshirt

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I have a 2005 Hino 145, it had a dead short, which we eventually found but during our search we removed the alternator, when we pulled it out accidentally pulled apart the wire from the coupler that connects to the temperature sender. (The wire is strapped to the back of the alternator arm). 4 wires go into this connector. We re-assembled it the way it looked like it was (same twist on the wire) but lately have had some problems with temperature readings (truck hasn't been driven that much since we found the short). do you have a wiring diagram, and maybe a picture of the plug, so we can tell if we wired it right?? The wires are bared, and push in the back of the plug with those little rubber grommets holding them in.

A lot to ask, but i thought maybe...
Thanks,
Doug


I'm never going to remember to look this up, but I'll try.
 

ryceracerx

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Looking or some help. I have a 2005 Hino 238 and also a 2006 Hino 238. I purchased both trucks used. When I bought each truck, both trucks ran and drove perfect. After purchase, I let them sit in my yard for about several months before actually putting them into use. I did start them up and moved them around in my yard. Once I put plates on them and sent them down the road, I get a check engine light and speed was limited to about 20 mph. Took it to he local dealer and it needed the turbo to be replaced. This was the case for both trucks. Recently I took the plates off one of the trucks and had it sit for another couple months. Now I seem to be having the same issues. It would start up and idle with no check engine light but once I get going, the check engine light turns on and I cant rev it much and speed is limited. Any suggestions?? It just seems like I cant have them sitting around without really driving them hard.
 

coalminer

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Turbo linkage is frozen same thing happened to mine after sitting for a month spray it down with some lubricant and have someone start it while you are pushing down slightly on the linkage and it will free itself up. I hate to say this but you were taken on the turbo replacement, check to see if turbo is rusty, will bet they didn't replace it, just freed up the linkage.

Sent from my LG-D500 using EO Forums mobile app
 

greasytshirt

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Looking or some help. I have a 2005 Hino 238 and also a 2006 Hino 238. I purchased both trucks used. When I bought each truck, both trucks ran and drove perfect. After purchase, I let them sit in my yard for about several months before actually putting them into use. I did start them up and moved them around in my yard. Once I put plates on them and sent them down the road, I get a check engine light and speed was limited to about 20 mph. Took it to he local dealer and it needed the turbo to be replaced. This was the case for both trucks. Recently I took the plates off one of the trucks and had it sit for another couple months. Now I seem to be having the same issues. It would start up and idle with no check engine light but once I get going, the check engine light turns on and I cant rev it much and speed is limited. Any suggestions?? It just seems like I cant have them sitting around without really driving them hard.

As coalminer mentioned, the VNT controller linkage has a tendency to stick if they aren't exercised frequently. Get an aerosol can of Loctite nickel antiseize and spray it on both joints on the linkage.

Loctite 51286 | Anti-Seize Lubricant
Generally I've seen this stuff for $40/can, so the price at the above link is great.

Sometimes the VNT straight up takes a dump, and no amount of lube will help (literally and metaphorically).

The VNT controller is not available separately. Well, not from a Hino dealer, anyway. The 11-14 model year trucks have a separately available VNT controller, but that won't help you; they aren't compatible.


A couple of people on here have gotten their turbos rebuilt at around $500, but I don't know if the VNT controller was refurbed or replaced at the same time.
 

greasytshirt

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An amendment to some earlier posts I made: the dpf is in danger of melting at around 1450* F. The max dpf inlet and outlet temps are saved in the ecu. Dpf outlet temps in excess of around 1450 would warrant an inspection of the dpf inlet and outlet. This data is something I'd want to see if considering a used truck.
When looking at the dpf inlet, you're actually looking at the DOC (diesel oxidation catalyst). It's common to have some soot built up around the edges, but the substrate should not be clogged or melted.

The outlet should look nearly spotless. If there's dark spots on it, it's been damaged. It should be an even dark tan color. If the whole *** end of it has blown out, it needs to be replaced.

Well, that depends on your definition of 'need'. If you can tolerate all the beeping, you can drive along forever with a blown up dpf. This is for 08-10 trucks only, don't attempt on an 11-14. There's a whole lot of stuff downstream of the dpf that's a lot more expensive. No, don't gut the dpf. The DOC and scr catalyst will get fouled up from all the soot.
 

greasytshirt

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I just googled 'Hino problems'. This website and this thread are the two first hits. Sixteen thousand people have clicked on this thread.

I'm internet famous!
 

coalminer

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Ok, next question, before I replaced my alternator, the problem I was working on that caused me to find the alternator was bad was that my AC would not work, the first time I noticed it, I climbed underneath and saw that the compressor was turning a little bit, and the belt was not slpping, just the clutch. Now it wont engage at all, going to check to make sure that there is voltage getting to the coil in the clutch, but im pretty sure there is. Do you know if the coil is available by itself or do I have to replace the entire compressor?
 
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