floor in cargo van

miker

Seasoned Expediter
wondering if I should plywood the floor of my cargo van for ease of loading and off loading versuses just leaving the way it is with the rubber mat? any ideas?
 

theBeemer

Not a Member
I got 3/4 inch plywood and it works fine..Id recommend even putting some epoxy if you can find it cheap enough..I messed up is I didn't insulate underneath the wood..It can get quite cold at night
 

chefdennis

Veteran Expediter
I know some leave the rubber mat , but i've got to believe that it wil tear at some point that skids will get caught up it it. I took mine up and installed 3/8 think plywood, then the e-track and then another 3/8" piece of plywood between the track. Overkill? Maybe, but it acts as an insulator to keep the floor a bit warmer also, and with winter coming, i am all about keeping the inside of the van warm.

And skids slide easier on the wood vs. the rubber mat.

Just my 2 cents worth...
 

miker

Seasoned Expediter
I will definately be working on some insulating this year when I get back up to ohio
 

dcalien

Seasoned Expediter
I have Mercedes installed flooring so I can't speak from experience. That being said a friend of mine uses the rubber mat from the factory on his Chevy van. He says it gets caught on pallets on almost every load and he has glued it and just has to keep putting it back in place.

I do know a lot of cold comes up through the floor, and heat as well. When I quit sleeping on the floor my back loved me for it.

Almost every van I have seen does the plywood thing.

Mine actually is plywood with a fancy covering that easily slides loads, and at the same time is not slippery to walk on.
 

hondaking38

Veteran Expediter
chevy vans have insulation under the mat,,, you will notice it when you hold down the plywood with self tapping sheet metal screws....ya only need about 15 per sheet...with 3/4 ply u need the screws 1.5 inches long to get thru the ply.rubber matting,and insulation...the end 1/4 of the screw has no thread just a cutting head..i drilled holes 1/4 inch deep slightly larger then the screw head so that they would countersink (head below the surface) hope this helps..
 

fastman_1

Veteran Expediter
Owner/Operator
I took The Rubber Mat out, Welded the E-Track down then cut out The 3/4 Plywood to fit over the e-track and Used Liquid Nails to Fasten the wood to the Floor,6 Years later its still holds tight. and No problem with a cold floor in the winter
 

MCBuggyCo

Seasoned Expediter
what did you attach it with?
what is e-track?

HET5GV.JPG


E track straps are used for cargo control during transportation usually in an enclosed trailer. Various cargo and equipment can be tied down using e track for the purpose of constraining the cargo in horizontal, vertical, lateral and radial directions. E Track straps control the movement of cargo during transportation by integrating durable polyester material with tie down hardware that secures the load to the track. E-Track is typically made from high strength 12 GA steel and may be attached with screws rivets or by welding. Welding of galvanized e track should be done in a well ventilated area. Welding fumes may be toxic.
E Track is commonly sold in 5’ and 10’ sections and is offered in painted or galvanized finish. Horizontal E Track is most commonly sold but Vertical E Track is also available.

Ratchet straps and cam buckle straps are types of e track straps. Each e track strap has a rated capacity and working load limit so the consumer decides the best fit for each application. The rated capacity is the load an e track strap assembly can endure in a pull test performed by a testing facility for safety purposes. The working load limit is the maximum weight an e track strap assembly can be exposed to during daily use. This value should be one third of the rated capacity of the e track strap.
 

bgoveia

Seasoned Expediter
An old salt van operator that use to post on here that has run vans for decades told me this is not a part of outfitting a van that you want to go half azz. You will encounter some real winners on fork lifts out there. I bolted my plywood down with carriage bolts and as hard as the forklift guys tried to catch the edge and rip it out it never happened. I have a 06 Chevy van and you have to watch you opening dimemsions at the back so that you have clearance for 48 inches at least, more is better. You'll have ok in the center but on the sides it gets real close. Some of the cargo will be containers for assemblys plants that crowd 48 inches on the sides. Have had to take off little catch in the center for doors to latch to a few times. Keep no. 10 metric box or socket close by to take off if needed. I set my van up like Terry's and was immensely happy with it. Should still be in archives of article on Terry's van and how he set his up, very cool. Sure miss your posts Terry, you probably don't remember me, just one of untold people you have helped along the way, good luck on your new job.
 

Moot

Veteran Expediter
Owner/Operator
I used 3/8 inch plywood subfloor glued to the metal floor with construction adhesive. I then fastened the E-track using Tec screws and stainless bolts. On top of the plywood I layed out 1/2 inch by 7 1/2 wide plastic composite planks. These were attached to the subfloor with galvanized deck screws.

Note the E-track on the floor and walls.
 

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miker

Seasoned Expediter
ok , I'm familiar with the E track system, just didnt know what it was called, I dont have any intention of putting a bed in my van , so I probably will put 2-5' tracks or 1-10' track , on both sides of course. the new chevy has insulation under the rubber mat, so I will install 3/4 plywood. was ( bgoveia ) saying that you should be prepared to remove the rear doors sometimes?
 

chefdennis

Veteran Expediter
the read door Latch "Catch", it is in the center of the opening for the rear doors to latch to. The "auto assembly skids he mentioned sometimes are right at 48 in., and if you leave the factory mat with the insulation, and add a 3/4 in plywood deack you will be cutting it close on some of thos aut assembly skids. So far I have been lucky enough that i just removed the tops of them and they fit ok, but i am sure my day is coming!!
 

Moot

Veteran Expediter
Owner/Operator
Moot,
Where's the cages?

The cages were under the bunk. This is an old photo and I have since divested all of my chinchilla stock. I was able to supply HighwayStar with a fur lined shift lever cover, Cheri got a a fur book mark and popcorn holder and there was enough left over to make Jefferson3000 a fur cover for the control box on his new liftgate.

If I ever get back into chinchilla ranching I would gladly make you a custom fit dash cover for your Hudson. Or a "G" string.
 

Moot

Veteran Expediter
Owner/Operator
Dennis, I have removed my latch on occasion to accommodate tall loads. I always replace it after loading and then remove it again to unload. G.M. must have put it there for a reason other than to get in the way.
 

dhalltoyo

Veteran Expediter
GettingStarted2010.jpg



Use a good quality piece of plywood. I personally like Birch. Cut to fit and apply several coats of Polycrit.

Go right over top the rubber mat. You'll want the extra insulation and noise deadening that the mat provides. Folks who have ridden in this van say it is the quietest one ever. Without the mat you will hear a lot of road noise and it sounds like you are riding inside a tin can!

The pallet will ride above the mat on the plywood. I never had any problems with the mat getting torn.

Moreover, the plywood is also there to create surface tension will the pallet to help it remain in place under hard or emergency braking...properly secured with ratchet straps and wood block locks in front of the load.

On my new truck, I used three rows of E-Trac on the floor. I really like that middle strap for those small skids. I cross the outside straps on small skids, but that middle strap gives me a much higher degree of confidence that the load is going to stay put when I have to brake hard in an emergency.

Leave the rubber mat on the floor.

As per Moot....use Stainless Steel fastners. I like carriage bolts, but it adds a lot of work. I just countersunk the plywood and used "Self-Drilling" fasteners. I have not had any problems with the screws heads snagging anything.
 
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miker

Seasoned Expediter
I like the picturre, thats exactly what I am looking to do. is the plywood under the etrack as well or is the etrack just butted up to the plywood and mounted directly on top of the mat. I was just thinking last night that I would leave the mat in for added noise and insulation protection, now theres no question. Thanks
 
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