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I did this at my house.

The local appliance delivery guys have figured out where I live.

Fat thumbs here. My phone autocorrects in the worst possible ways.

At least 6. I'd consider just ignoring it, with the occasional clean up.

Well, there are lots of things. But unless I'm there with a computer on it, any further advice will be pure conjecture. I don't like shotgunning parts onto an engine, hoping something sticks.

You have to remove the camshaft, so this is gonna take a while.

Hell if I know. $50?

Ah yes, this problem. There are two things that can cause this. One is the brake pedal switch. It's often out of adjustment. Unscrew it a quarter turn until it pops out, then push it in until the plunger is fully depressed, plus another click or two. If this does not fix it, there's a...

It may be rebuildable. Sounds like bad or sticking brushes.

Usually it's the big relay on the side of the master cylinder frying. Sometimes its the motor. There is a big fuse in the external box powering the motor.

Those pressures are normal. At sustained full power it can drop dramatically if there is a restriction in the fuel supply. First replace the fuel filter and clean up the housing or sediment cap. Then pull all of the inlet fittings completely out of the fuel filter housing and look for debris. If...

Gotta leave your clothes on.

Do you use a funnel to add oil? It's possible to damage the injector harness after a funnel-related stabbing on the 4 cylinder engines. I fixed this exact same scenario yesterday on a 2015 COE.

Depends on the year. I think this particular UD has a UD engine, but I'm not totally sure.

Bobwolf is right. It can be a multitude of things. On Hino's 2008 and up you can get codes out of dash but not an 05. Lube the Vnt linkage behind turbo with aerosol nickel anti seize after you change fuel filter. Also pull fittings out of fuel filter housing and look for debris. Common issue...

2014 Dodge 3500, 6.7 Cummins. 10K miles. DEF in fuel. Destroyed every component of fuel system and etched the cylinder walls. Sickening.

If you know it will shut down reliably: Attach auxiliary fuel source to high pressure pump, bypassing every component of fuel supply system. Test drive with the same conditions that make it shut off. If it fixes it, you have a supply problem. If problem still exists, the problem is in the high...

Theoretically, but down here many states don't have the mechanisms in place to enforce such a rule. In other words, thanks for sharing!

I'd be more concerned with the belt idler or tensioner failing first. When the idler bearings fail (and they will), the pulley will cut a slot (or even a hole) through the timing cover.