Search results

Well, there's a pretty good chance that the head gasket is leaking. Once you've eliminated all of the other culprits, the head gasket is next. Very occasionally the water pump will cause similar symptoms, so you might want to look at that first.

Does it run normally or does it misfire or shake? Well, all the 4 cylinder trucks shake at idle, but does it seem to run correctly? High blowby can be a result of a scuffed piston, that would be bad news.

No problem. That's why I'm here.

While you're in there, see if you can see evidence of the water pump leaking. The weep hole is really hard to see, you might need a mirror on a stick. Sometimes they pull air from the atmosphere and aerate the coolant, and you'll get similar symptoms.

The radiator can get very full of debris, restricting airflow through it. It can be difficult to see this. Removing the intercooler to clean the radiator may be a good idea. Also, the fan clutches can be problematic. Do you ever hear it engage? Is the fan clutch leaking a viscous fluid...

In my experience, the tone rings will rust off of the rotors (causing ABS faults) before the rotor is worn out. I am unsure of the thickness wear limit offhand.

Got a pic of that injector? There is a clip on top, a wire guide that has the calibration codes printed on it. Was that loose, or the actual solenoid part?

VA here. AS a Democrat, my first thought was that he should resign. Barring that, I hope he can overcome this and prove his worth.

That's beyond my control.

One of the mechanics at the shop is also on the local volunteer fire department, so he got to respond to this call. I'm jealous. He got to rip a door off of the building with the forklift without getting into any trouble.

The shop where I work caught on fire in November. A lousy Ford E-350 shuttle bus decided to spontaneously ignite in the middle of the night. The insurance people said that those things burst into flames all the time. How reassuring. Life is just now starting to return to normal.

If the rotors look to be in good shape, then there's no reason to replace them. Replacing the rotors can be quite a bit of hassle if you're not equipped with the giant sockets needed to take the hubs off, and you'll definitely need to set the wheel bearing endplay accurately when you do this...

There's a factory tool for replacing the rear main seal, and using it is the only way to ensure that it gets installed at the correct depth. You should be able to remove those bolts to remove the bellhousing.

Check the flow damper on #3 for debris. The flow damper is the piece between the common rail and injection line. Sometimes you will find a small piece of wire stuck in the hole. This wire is from the injection pump, and pump replacement may be a priority if this is what you find. Also, the...

What year is this 185? The PCV system on the later trucks give few problems. Is something clogging one of the lines? Excess pressure in the crankcase can push a seal out, but this would be an unusual occurrence. How much blowby is coming out of the vent?

I do not like these engines. They have a parent-bore block, which means they don't have removable cylinder liners, which makes them much, much more difficult to repair if something goes wrong. The later C7 engines are also ones to avoid, as they kept all of the 3126's problems and added some...

I'd also confirm that there's no debris anywhere in the fuel supply, including the elbows on top of the fuel tank, and the banjo bolts and fittings in the fuel filter. And debris in the tank. I recently pulled a fas-mart breakfast sandwich wrapper out of the tank of an old Isuzu FTR. It was...

If you wiggle the connector with the engine at idle, you'll hear the pitch of the engine change if there's a bad connection. That's an actual Hino printout. It's off-topic, but that printout also shows an airflow problem through the engine, like a sticking ITV or a turbocharger going south...

The hydroboost function you're describing is normal. That motor is running any time the key is on and it's not running. At this point access to some diagnostic software might be necessary.

It sounds like you're on the right track. Check the connector on the rail pressure sensor. These connectors are beginning to show their age.