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The cure for P0421 is to replace the ATC. Expect the upper temp sensor to fight you on the way out. This is a fairly common problem, IDK why your dealer is confused.

Inspect that big wire harness that comes out of the junction box up front. If that gets whacked it can cause myriad weird electrical problems.

It comes out from the inside. When I'm on a roll it takes me about 5 hours. Also, there's no published procedure. I doubt there is an aftermarket alternative. I don't know the price. There's a long metal bar that runs the width of the dash. That has to come out. Remove steering column...

The alternator can stay. It's just nuts and bolts, but some of them are kind of a bear to get to and can be pretty tight. The biggest risk is breaking studs or mangling nuts on the turbo or downpipe. Your first attempt may be frustrating.

I misread what you said. The oil cooler IS suspect. Your dealer days it's common, but that has not been my experience. The cooler itself is #3 in the picture, and the d-rings are #2. On the occasion that we've replaced an oil cooler, we just order the entire assembly.

The turbo has to come off. Don't separate the cooler element from the base. Just replace the few d-rings on the base. The flat side goes toward the base, curved toward the block.

The common rail has six flow dampers on it. They go between the rail and injector lines. One may have debris in it. Have them figure out which cylinder is misfiring, then disassemble the flow damper for that cylinder(s) and look for debris. If they don't have software that can see cylinder...

It's a function of the instrument panel. Do you want help actually fixing it?

Misfiring? Has the leak been fixed? It was running normally before the leak and the repair? I'm trying to understand the sequence of events. Debris in the fuel system can cause a misfire. I've seen a few cases of a spring inside the pump break and the pieces go into the common rail. The flow...

Help me understand. Is there a coolant leak? Do you have to add coolant? Or does the heat not work? Or both?

Pin 25 on the TCM sends a signal to the instrument cluster that gets converted to speed. This is likely a wiring problem, if I had to guess. Take a peek in the junction box behind the air filter. Look at the connector terminals for corrosion.

Where exactly is the pump leaking?

Yes, I understand your frustration. When we sell a new truck, we keep a close eye on it and the warranty. We try to cover as much under warranty as possible.

You can get the fitting with o-ring and spring retainer from Hino. Idk the o-ring's size.

It's a known issue. The head gaskets leak externally, the rocker boxes can leak, and the oil pan gasket can leak. The oil coolers on earlier trucks were notorious leakers, but some improvements were made in that regard. Some engines never leak at all, and some puke fluids from every orifice.

I learned this after starting a Tech Assist case for a truck with P2BAE.

The lastest guidance from Hino is to replace the SCR catalyst and check dosing volume. The DEF dosage rate is too high and it damages the SCR. They are working on a solution.

There are two fuses, AIR_SUS and VAN. On the dump valve connector, pink is reset, blue is dump and black is ground.

I have almost zero experience with Volvos. I put an EGR valve on one 10 years ago.

We don't have 358's in the US but post the pic so we can see. Pretty sure the blue wire at the dump solenoid should have power when the switch is in the dump position.