Sprinter Used Oil Analysis

[RLENT]

Thanks....I'll just keep plodding along doing what works for me at the moment

Absolutely !!!! Nothing wrong with that all.

and we'll see who can achieve the million mark...and compare notes....could be interesting?

Sure, you bet !!!

(BTW, nothing in the story I told above was really aimed at you - my reply to you however offered the opportunity to tell it though .... and flap my gums a little more .... )

 

[OntarioVanMan]

Rlent said...

Sure, you bet !!!

(BTW, nothing in the story I told above was really aimed at you - my reply to you however offered the opportunity to tell it though .... and flap my gums a little more ....

Didn't think it was....never even dawned on me...guess I am thick headed...

BTW darned thing won't start!! Started it last night but 14 hours later nada...not the battery....have a heating pad on the injector rail now...that did the trick last year...

 

[OntarioVanMan]

It started! Darned I am good!

 

[RLENT]

It started! Darned I am good!

Ya gots the magic touch .....

So what was it ?

(Is it real cold out there now ? Treating the fuel for gelling are we ?)

 

[OntarioVanMan]

Ya gots the magic touch .....

So what was it ?

(Is it real cold out there now ? Treating the fuel for gelling are we ?)

I think it's because of my faulty glow plugs and it hasn't been above 0 for a few days...warming the fuel rail seems to work...

The coolant was fine misting in the front now... but I couldn't spot the source...now I am thinking water pump/or gasget....

I have it scheduled for Wednesday in Rapid City @ my dealer for repair AND a rad flush to get rid of the Prestone! AND install a block heater!

My tech there has a morbid sense of humour...he said once.." ya think when a company builds in a tow hook..you'd get the message!"

 

[RLENT]

I think it's because of my faulty glow plugs and it hasn't been above 0 for a few days...warming the fuel rail seems to work...

Yeah ..... faulty glowplugs could do it in that kinda of weather ...

Ya thinking about having them try and replace them ? If so, I'd make sure the motor is fully warmed up and hot when they try and remove them .....

The coolant was fine misting in the front now... but I couldn't spot the source...now I am thinking water pump/or gasget....

Yeah ... that shouldn't be too bad .... the WP is about $180 list from the dealer .... certainly better than having it be the rad itself .... who knows ? .... might just be a loose clamp or hose .... or a gasket like you say.

I have it scheduled for Wednesday in Rapid City @ my dealer for repair AND a rad flush to get rid of the Prestone! AND install a block heater!

Both good moves IMNSHO !!! Especially considering where "home" is .....

I've never had a problem starting mine, even in extremely cold weather - but then all my GP's are working ... AFAIK. The block heater will be good all around - since the majority of engine wear occurs during the time from a cold start until the engine is fully warmed up. With it "pre-warmed" you'll be able to reduce that time.

My tech there has a morbid sense of humour...he said once.." ya think when a company builds in a tow hook..you'd get the message!"

LOL ...

 

[OntarioVanMan]

Rlent said..

Ya thinking about having them try and replace them ? If so, I'd make sure the motor is fully warmed up and hot when they try and remove them .....

I WAS planning on getting them from EBay...somewhat cheaper...Depends on whats wrong IF they have to order anything I'll prolly have them go ahead and order the GP's and controller as well...

BTW the GP's have been out twice now...so my tech is good at getting them out...I've heard horror stories about them being broken off!!

They've had BH's for Sprinter for a few years..I shoulda had one put in right in the beginning...my bad.

 

[OntarioVanMan]

For Turtle and Rlent....



2009 Contract


After serious & cautious consideration, your contract of friendship has been renewed for 2009.

It was a very hard decision to make. So try not to mess it up!!!

My Wish for You in 2009

May peace break into your house, and may thieves come to steal your debts. May the pockets of your jeans become a magnet of $100 bills. May love stick to your face like Vaseline, and may laughter assault your lips! May your clothes smell of success like smoking tires, may happiness slap you across the face, and may your tears be of joy. In other words...

May 2009 be the best year of your life, with warmest regards!

Ken aka OVM

 

[Turtle]

I love that!

 

[RLENT]

For those unfamiliar with reading an oil analysis there is an explanation of the various elements and physical properties that are being tested for here:

Understanding The Elements

And an explanation of the report format here:

Understanding You Gas/Diesel Oil Report

A TBN (total base number) measures the amount of active additive left in a sample of oil. The TBN is useful for people who want to extend their oil usage far beyond the normal range. There is more info on that here:

Do I Need A TBN ?

 

[RLENT]

Ken,

Thanks - same back at ya !!!! (BTW, my clothes probably do smell - not sure if it's success or what it is exactly .... might just be me .... anyways I'm gonna hit the shower tonight for sure .... really .....)

I've managed to rack up another 10K miles since my last analysis in early December and the engine oil has not been changed for 25K miles .... that made me sorta nervous, never having done this before .... so last night when I got to the J, I pulled a sample and Fedex'ed it overnight to Blackstone. This afternoon I got the analysis back and I'm breathing a little easier. The report was a good one, with nothing out of the ordinary ..... Blackstone says run it another 10K miles and check it again. My guess is they might be prone to err on the conservative side, so I might able to run it even further.

At any rate, while the tests cost something (and possibly make it a wash economically) they are helping me to develop a statistical history as to how quick the oil degrades. At some point, I will decrease the frequency of the testing - perhaps the next time I completely change out the oil I won't initially test until 35K miles or so into the oil change.

(BTW, if you want to view the report at full size - so you can actually read it - rather than the goofy little size that the EO interface limits it to, don't click directly on the attached image - right-click on it instead, and open it up in a new window)

(Note: the 5 1/4 quarts of make up added since the last full oil change on the current analysis includes the 3 quarts previously mentioned in the prior analysis)

 

[RLENT]

Here's the current analysis. I'm pleased - the wear metals are up, but all still reading at or (mostly) below Blackstone's Universal Averages for this engine type.

Fuel dilution is still the same, no water or antifreeze, insolubles remain low, viscosity is within range, and the TBN is still fairly strong, although the TAN shot up a bit.

The Motor Guard bypass certainly seems to be doing it's job (viva la toilet paper !)

I'm starting to think I might be able to go to at least 60K mile OCI's with this setup. That would definitely make it worthwhile from a economic standpoint - eliminating from 3 to 5 oil changes (at roughly $65 per) .... to say nothing of having an engine that just might go 1M (knock on wood......)

(Open the attached report in a separate browser window if you want to be able to actually read it )

 

[guido4475]

i know it all seems good and well, but i am still the type of person who changes my oil every 10,000 miles.i just cant bear the thought of oil being in the engine for that long.it runs so much better and stronger with a fresh change.i've got 876,000 miles on my c-15 cat, and it still has 45 psi at an idle.and 70 psi at highway speeds.always been that way since i got it.another thing that really works and is worth the $$$ is a spinner ll oil centrifuge.it really pulls the dirt out of your oil that regular filters dont get.

 

[RLENT]

i know it all seems good and well, but i am still the type of person who changes my oil every 10,000 miles.i just cant bear the thought of oil being in the engine for that long.

Yup - I was raised that way as well - change the oil & filter every 3K miles .....

Old habits die hard sometimes

it runs so much better and stronger with a fresh change.

How exactly do you measure that ?

Have you noticed any measurable change in fuel mileage after changing your oil ?

i've got 876,000 miles on my c-15 cat, and it still has 45 psi at an idle.and 70 psi at highway speeds.always been that way since i got it.

I believe that TeamCaffee also has a C-15 in their rig .... dunno how many miles on it ..... but I do know that they went over 100K miles on their first oil change (dino oil, not synthetic) after installing their bypass unit - an OPS1 system.

another thing that really works and is worth the $$$ is a spinner ll oil centrifuge.it really pulls the dirt out of your oil that regular filters dont get.

I've heard that as well - I've considered putting on the smallest Spinner, simply because the maintenance interval would likely be much less.

I've talked to a guy down under who runs or ran a number of Class 8 rigs and has been using Spinners for years (back before Mann-Hummel acquired the business from Federal-Mogul) - with very good results.

 

[guido4475]

as far as how i measure the more power after an oil change,i get more top end speed out of each gear before it goes into the next gear.and the acceleration is so much more stronger.as far as the spinner ll is concerened, l use kasiski out of enterprises out of port clinton, ohio for the parts and filters.they are real helpful.they have ads in ooida landline magazine as well as a few others.another thing that i have used on my other truck is a fass system. it is the only thing that i can say that has worked like it was supposed to.it takes the air out of your diesel fuel before coming into the engine, and returning the air back to the fuel tanks.it is not cheap, about $1,000 installed in 2003, but the horsepower increase as well as the smoother idling, more quicker acceleration, and i got 3/4 of a mile to the gallon more also.pittsburgh power did that for me.they are excellent as well.

 

[aileron]

Yup - I was raised that way as well - change the oil & filter every 3K miles .....

Old habits die hard sometimes

I was one of the 3k miles guy as well when I was changing the oil in my car maybe 3 times a year, and I was doing it for about $10 a piece.

But, when I started into the expediting and I needed an oil change every month and a half to two months, in the busyer times even monthly (and this at 10k miles) at around $60 a change, I started looking into ways to increase the changing interval. For us as expediters it will make a big difference in the pocketbook, if you only chage it ar 60k or even more.

 

[aileron]

as far as how i measure the more power after an oil change,i get more top end speed out of each gear before it goes into the next gear.and the acceleration is so much more stronger.as far as the spinner ll is concerened, l use kasiski out of enterprises out of port clinton, ohio for the parts and filters.they are real helpful.they have ads in ooida landline magazine as well as a few others.another thing that i have used on my other truck is a fass system. it is the only thing that i can say that has worked like it was supposed to.it takes the air out of your diesel fuel before coming into the engine, and returning the air back to the fuel tanks.it is not cheap, about $1,000 installed in 2003, but the horsepower increase as well as the smoother idling, more quicker acceleration, and i got 3/4 of a mile to the gallon more also.pittsburgh power did that for me.they are excellent as well.

I don't know, but if you have air mixed with the diesel going ino the engine, you have a leak somwhere and air gets in. Fix that instead of installing the $1000 snake oil. But I guess if it makes you feel good about it and you feel that you have more power, etc, do it.

 

[OntarioVanMan]

So hows the by-pass filter coming along?

 

[RLENT]

I just pulled an oil sample the other day in fact ... dropped it off at Fedex in Sweetwater, TX last night before coming back to the J .... should hear back from Blackstone in 2 or 3 days.

My present sump has 48,577 miles on it since the last oil change ... roughly 50% of the oil in the sump is from the original fill - the remainder being make up oil from bypass filter element changes, and some minor amount that engines burns or uses.

Be interesting to see how it looks with another 11K miles on it, since it was last analyzed ....

 

[RLENT]

Here's the next installment - sampled with 47K+ on the sump. They say good for another 10K miles. I've already put 3K on since the most recent sample was taken, that is listed on the attached report.

My guess is, at this rate, given the trending, I'll be looking at least at 70K miles on the sump before anything hits condemnation levels .... although it might occur sooner (like at the next 10K) as I suspect deterioration is not linear, but likely somewhat logarithmic - with the oil degrading faster as it nears the end of it's life.

On the wear metals, aluminum is still below universal averages for this engine type, and iron is slightly above the universal average - but nowhere near condemnation level (150 ppm)

It's still showing no lead (first indicator of engine bearing wear) and fairly low copper (the second indicator of bearing wear) - the copper is likely leached out from something - possibly internal components in the bypass filter itself.

Tin is up quite a bit and possibly might bear watching, since it can be an indicator of bearing wear.

The amount of make up oil is not listed on this report due to my own disorganization, I have the data - I just need to gather it up - which will probably occur when I go out of service in about a week or so. It's my sense, just based on my recollection, the amount of make up oil was not significantly different than previous.

(Open the image of the analysis in a separate window in order to be able to actually read it)