bayouhotshot
Seasoned Expediter
my 60" Condo Sleeper gasket (BOOT) needs to be changed how hard is it and ware can i buy one at
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FL70 sleeper gasket
- Thread starter bayouhotshot
- Start date
What's a condo sleeper gasket? Are you talking about the boot that's between the cab and the sleeper of an areodyne sleeper? Call the sleeper manufacturer.
bubblehead
Veteran Expediter
If you are referring to the 'boot' then try the manufacturer or perhaps a rebuild shop. Also as in my old hometown, I went to a company called Rubber Specialities that had all types of products for boots gaskets shields etc...usually at large discounts...also RV and mobile home supply stores....
bayouhotshot
Seasoned Expediter
ya the boot i dont know what thay call it
Deville
Not a Member
I have a waterfall in my truck right now. I need to get that taken care of. I was ralking to another driver he said 1 it was safe to walk on the roof of the cab to get to the gasket, & toget some heavy duty rubber stripping and lay it on the top & seal it with a foam filler & silicone
bayouhotshot
Seasoned Expediter
thats what someone has done on this one and its bad im going to fix it not rig it again i talk to a guy and he said i can put a boot over to of the one that is there (thats what he did) so 10ft
is all i need mine dont make any noise going down the road so thats what im going to try
he went to a place that sold bed covers for trucks and thay had it in stock $4 dollers a ft
greg334
Veteran Expediter
Well here is the thing, the rubber is usually alright but the steel strip that holds it to the flange part of the cab/sleeper rust and because of that, it pulls the rubber away from the flange to let water in.
If the rubber isn't ripped anywhere (which is usually at the bottom because of foot traffic) you can seal it up with good silicone (GE RTV6708 Sealant Silicone is preferred stuff but 3M is good too) and maybe a new metal strip. The metal strip I don't have a source for but I got mine out of GM's scrap bin at Pole Town last year with a GM suppliers part number on the box but haven't tracked it down or used it yet.
So this is what I have done with another poorly made Bentz sleeper;
First I removed all the trim, which means that I ended up breaking off many of the screws that held on the trim and rusted thanks to the water leaking into the channels of the sleeper frame.
Note to sleeper manufacturers - use stainless steel sheet metal screws, not cheap metal screws that rust. It is a sign of a lazy quality control people.
Then once the trim is off, I had to take a section at a time on each side, removing the gasket from the flange, removing the rusted metal out of the rubber, cleaning both the rubber and the flange with soapy water mix (fels naptha is what I had), then wiping it dry.
Once it was dry, I applied the GE silicone adhisive I had to the flange and to the rubber. Waited the 60 seconds needed to set a bit and then put the rubber back on the flange, pressing the rubber hard against the flange. I cleaned up any spillage (which wasn't much) and waited.
Once I was finished with that part, I waited about an hour for it all to set I then went around the entire inside of the sleeper and cab on the edge of the gasket with a bead of silcone sealent (GE RTV103 Black Silicone). I also applied on the outside the same stuff but before I did that, I cleaned up the suface for it to stick to. I didn't just bead the ourside but I put a bit of a concaved shape to it.
All in all it took me about four hours to complete the work, which included driling new holes for the trim cutting the old rusty screws off so no one gets their hands cut up.
I used five tubes of each, they were small tubes and the cost was about $75, including the new stainless steel screws and a good lunch.
That sleeper hasn't leaked at all since it was done and seeing the truck the other day, after a year and a half it has held up very well.
If the rubber isn't ripped anywhere (which is usually at the bottom because of foot traffic) you can seal it up with good silicone (GE RTV6708 Sealant Silicone is preferred stuff but 3M is good too) and maybe a new metal strip. The metal strip I don't have a source for but I got mine out of GM's scrap bin at Pole Town last year with a GM suppliers part number on the box but haven't tracked it down or used it yet.
So this is what I have done with another poorly made Bentz sleeper;
First I removed all the trim, which means that I ended up breaking off many of the screws that held on the trim and rusted thanks to the water leaking into the channels of the sleeper frame.
Note to sleeper manufacturers - use stainless steel sheet metal screws, not cheap metal screws that rust. It is a sign of a lazy quality control people.
Then once the trim is off, I had to take a section at a time on each side, removing the gasket from the flange, removing the rusted metal out of the rubber, cleaning both the rubber and the flange with soapy water mix (fels naptha is what I had), then wiping it dry.
Once it was dry, I applied the GE silicone adhisive I had to the flange and to the rubber. Waited the 60 seconds needed to set a bit and then put the rubber back on the flange, pressing the rubber hard against the flange. I cleaned up any spillage (which wasn't much) and waited.
Once I was finished with that part, I waited about an hour for it all to set I then went around the entire inside of the sleeper and cab on the edge of the gasket with a bead of silcone sealent (GE RTV103 Black Silicone). I also applied on the outside the same stuff but before I did that, I cleaned up the suface for it to stick to. I didn't just bead the ourside but I put a bit of a concaved shape to it.
All in all it took me about four hours to complete the work, which included driling new holes for the trim cutting the old rusty screws off so no one gets their hands cut up.
I used five tubes of each, they were small tubes and the cost was about $75, including the new stainless steel screws and a good lunch.
That sleeper hasn't leaked at all since it was done and seeing the truck the other day, after a year and a half it has held up very well.
bayouhotshot
Seasoned Expediter
hay thanks Bruno ya its my boot it has 2ft rips in it i can put my hand in it
stamp11127
Seasoned Expediter
I don't know the shape of your boot but take a look at these:
Accordion Rubber Boot Replacement
http://www.dkhardware.com/product-3...accordion-boot-seal-truck-sliding-window.html
Accordion Rubber Boot Replacement
http://www.dkhardware.com/product-3...accordion-boot-seal-truck-sliding-window.html
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I had tried the same thing, but it only bought me about 6 months and then the leak returned. I had a local shop replace the boot and they botched the job. I ended up making an appointment with Bentz. They had me in and out in about 4 hours and it has been worry free ever since. I took their bill back to the local shop and obtained a full refund for the botched job. Unfortunately Bentz went out of business, but I would hope there are other sleeper fabricating companies that could replace it for you.
Patriot44
Seasoned Expediter
Mine was the same way! Leaking like crazy!! I had great trouble finding anyone to replace it, so I took some tarp materiel cut it in to strips, laid them in the space between and used about 15 tubes of asphalt adhesive, knock on wood it has not leaked since! Good luck...