Fire Extinguisher Pin

[jjoerger]

We lost the pin from the handle of our fire extinguisher.
Now using a paper clip.
Does anyone know if this is a DOT violation?

 

[Tennesseahawk]

We lost the pin from the handle of our fire extinguisher.
Now using a paper clip.
Does anyone know if this is a DOT violation?

Everything is a DOT violation.

I doubt anyone will notice.

 

[Turtle]

The pin is just there to prevent accidental squeezing of the handle. Although not very strong, a paper clip should do fine. You can pick up a metal or plastic pin at any for extinguisher place for about a dollar.

 

[NorthernBill]

What they will notice if anything is the tamper seal missing. That's the plastic band used to secure the pin. I have some so PM with address if you'd like.

 

[Moot]

I can send you this pin with tag I found in an old gre

 

[zorry]

I would think you'd find a small spring clip/hair pin at Lowe's, in the drawers in the fastener section.
Anything that will not fall out and will prevent accidental discharge should work.

 

[Turtle]

You guys are taking your extinguisher into a fire extinguisher service center every 6 years and having it emptied, inspected internally, o-rings replaced, and the unit recharged, right? It's like $10 or $15 depending on where you have it done.

 

[zorry]

Won't $15 buy you a new one ?

 

[Turtle]

Won't $15 buy you a new one ?

Not one worth having. You don't want to be buying fire extinguishers, like those cheap Kidde or First Alert extinguishers, at Walmart or wherever. They're fine for the house, but out here, not so much.

Also, if you go to the stores that sell those extinguishers, check out the kinds of extinguishers they have on the walls and pillars around the store, see what they would use in case of a fire.

If you ever need one for an engine or electrical fire, you don't even want a standard dry chemical extinguisher, you want a Halon or some other clean agent extinguisher (Halon 1211, Halotron I, etc). Granted, a dry chemical fire extinguisher used on an engine, fuse block, wiring, or electronic equipment is certainly preferable to not using anything at all, but the dry chemical will corrode seals, wiring and connectors really badly, and the cleanup can be amazingly tedious and labor intensive. A Halon extinguisher leaves zero residue. You just don't want to use a Halon extinguisher in an enclosed space. A Halon extinguisher will cost you some money, but if you ever have to use one on an engine, it's worth every penny, times 10.

A little 2.5 pound Halon extinguisher by Amerex will cost you about $150. The same 2.5 pound dry chemical Amerex costs about $30. A 5 lb Halon $225, 5 lb Halotron $133, 5 lb dry chemical about $35.

For example...

 

[zorry]

For example...[/URL]

He must think we all make LOAD-1 type money.

 

[Turtle]

He must think we all make LOAD-1 type money.

Like my grandfather always said, you'll never be disappointed with the best.

That applies to everything you can buy.

And carriers.

And women.

Clean agent extinguishers are pretty pricey, but it you ever have to use one on an engine, they'll pay for themselves several times over in cleanup costs.

I still have a dry chemical extinguisher in my Sprinter, but after seeing the day the results on one on an engine due to an electrical fire, I'm seriously considering adding a clean agent extinguisher (most clean agent extinguishers are B and C only, not A, so you need an A, as well).