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Since you have DX, I'd do a def solution addition test. You'll do this through the DCU. Remove the def injector (leaving all the lines connected) and put it into a graduated container like a paint mixing cup. There are three steps to the test. DX tells you the proper volumes . Then do the leak...

The first thing I'd check is the adjustment of the brake pedal switch. Hinos have two brake switches that must correlate before the engine ECU allows any meaningful acceleration. The one on the back of the pedal near the steering column is the usual offender. The plunger on the switch needs...

The square thing in the back is the air compressor. I guess you could call it the air compressor coolant pipe. These rarely give a problem unless their clamps are missing, or if the compressor is loose.

Right on. Glad you got it figured out.

Awesome, that's the best possible outcome.

Bad connections at the dlc are very common. Sometimes I have to take them apart and pry at the tabs to get them to fit tighter. In some cases I've spliced on a new connector.

Well, you can't please everyone. I'm glad you're in a truck you like.

That's an EGR pipe. I don't have a way of looking up parts at home. Just hope the bolts in the exhaust manifold don't break off because it can get ugly.

You'll have to take it somewhere with dealer level software and get the parameters changed.

You can yank that seat out and put whatever seat you want in there. Some fabrication will be required.

I got the vaccine as soon as it became available. No booster shots. I got covid earlier this year. I felt fairly crappy for one day. I 'treated' my symptoms with a high dose of edibles. No severe symptoms at all. I got covid from my wife who was also vaccinated. She's immunocompromised so I...

Figure it out?

Every modern truck would have the same outcome if a rear main seal blew out.

If you've got 12v at the fan, then it's a ground issue. There are multiple grounds at the front of the left frame rail. One is likely damaged.

It has a thermostatic fan clutch. Do you ever hear it engage? You may want to blow the fins out on the radiator, they get totally clogged with dirt and debris.

Kinda sounds like poor airflow across the condenser. This can be confirmed with gauges connected to the system.

The oil cooler is prone to leakage, it's part of the assembly that the oil filter screws onto. Best bet there is to clean everything thoroughly and then run it. You can add fluorescent dye to the oil and then look for the leak with an ultraviolet light while wearing yellow glasses. They sell...

Update: the code simply means that the truck has been started a gazillion times. You can reset it by going to VCS system protection data and resetting that line.

You hit the nail on the head. I can access truck talk now. Thanks for your help!

There are many, many differences. I question the feasibility of this swap. Are there specific burner issues you need to overcome?