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We have some customers that would buy electric trucks tomorrow if they were available. Not for hauling cargo, for traffic control and crash barriers.

If the injector leak pipe is leaking, it'll fill the crankcase with fuel and then the engine runs away and explodes. That's the common failure mode with the return line. If you still aren't getting flow through the dampers, I would try removing the damper's guts and reinstall. The later trucks...

Use pliers to get the clamps off, then twist the hose to break it free. Be careful no to break the tubes coming out of the sensor. Take that piece to an auto parts store and ask them to match the inside diameter with reinforced hose.

Replace that broken hose with a piece of fuel hose that fits snug. That's an important sensor when it comes to doing regens.

Injector coding isn't going to affect fuel pressure. It's more like fine tuning. You have a different issue. Fuel starvation or leaks in the high pressure side of the fuel system. You should still get them reprogrammed

Did you get this resolved?

There's so much that goes into a real alignment. Do you have some invoices showing what was adjusted? Straightening the wheel is just a matter of taking the wheel off and turning it straight, but if it drifted off-kilter over time then surely some part is wearing out. Do you have air flow...

I did some searching for Ford 3.5 Ecoboost misfire and there are a ton of reasons. I'd skip the snake oil and find someone to diagnose it properly.

Take a look at the rear spring bushings on the front axle. Those get bashed and could possibly cause some movement.

Any luck retrieving those codes?

There is almost certainly water in the junction box behind the air filter. The connectors need to be opened, dried, corroded terminals fixed, and the source of water needs to be found and addressed. If the cover is installed wrong this can happen. Windshield gasket leaks are also likely...

Pretty sure it's Wabco D-type. Wabco D version ECU Blink Code List

Many things can cause a multiple cylinder misfire. I'd spend more time finding the root cause before considering the nuclear option.

I think ghosting us means it worked.

You mentioned the check engine light is on. What codes were set?

There are many possible reasons for poor performance. Too many for me to type. I suggest getting a diagnosis from your local a/c specialist.

Occasionally I find them in the evaporator. But they will leak from the typical places, too. I generally use a sniffer but of course people have mixed results with those. If it's leaking enough from the evaporator a sniffer will detect it coming from the condensate drain. Putting an evaporator...

I'd get a look at the blue/black wire connected directly to the battery (may have to pull insulation back to identify it). It goes directly to the 100 amp fuse. Maybe the ring terminal is corroded at the crimp.

What do you mean by spending? Consuming?