WOW This is nice...Sprinter Van Insulation Kits...

xiggi

Veteran Expediter
Owner/Operator
They don't seem to give an r value on the insulation. Hard to say if the cost is good without it.
 

LDB

Veteran Expediter
Retired Expediter
If it's significantly insulating material it may not be all that bad a price. It's expensive but the amount of time it should save would be huge I'd think.
 

shadow7663

Expert Expediter
Hard to say from looking at the pics but it just looks very thin thus my theory is the r-value is not very high.
 

Turtle

Administrator
Staff member
Retired Expediter
A few things about that insulation. In the photographs on the site, the insulation has been spray painted pink so it stands out and photographs better (and to make you think it's "The Pink Stuff" or something similar). What the insulation actually is, is the silver Reflectix insulation that you can get at Lowe's. Same exact stuff. Seriously. They add a few small squares of double-sided tape to the "back" side and that's how you stick it on.

When used alone with no foam board or canned foam insulation, and stuck directly to the metal skin of the van, it has an insulating value of about R-2 to R-2½.

Along with the Reflectix, with the addition of foam board (R-3.7) and canned spray foam (R-7 to R-8 per inch) to fill the voids, the R-factor of the insulation becomes somewhere between R-8 and R-17 depending on how much of what is used and where, with an overall average of about an R-12, maybe higher.

Professionally applied spray foam, and then Reflectix on top of that, will have the R-factor somewhere between R-17 and R-25.

The amount of Reflectix, foam board and canned foam, plus foil tape to seal the seams, plus Liquid Nails and/or 3M spray 77 or 90 adhesive, will set you back some money, but still less than the pre-cut insulation at that site, and it'll be far better insulated. All you need is a pair of scissors, some patience, and a few days to install it.


As for the site, it has a long and infamous history which is chronicled at the two major Sprinter forums on the Net. They do not have online ordering, you must print out the order form and fax it to them, and then mail them a check. They do not take credit cards (because you can contest a credit card charge when you're sent fraudulent crap, but you can't contest a check). The list goes on and on. The general consensus is, well, they're not highly regarded, I'll just say that. Over at the Sprinter-Source forum they have an entire forum dedicated to "Supplier Info, Reviews and Experiences," and SprinterAccessories gets hammered without mercy pretty regularly.

You're much better off with a tried and true, proven source for Sprinter accessories like The Sprinter Store at Upscale Auto, or EuroCampers. I and many other Sprinter owners have dealt with both of these places with no problems.
 

Turtle

Administrator
Staff member
Retired Expediter
Professionally applied spray foam, and then Reflectix on top of that, will have the R-factor somewhere between R-17 and R-25.

Is that closed cell or open cell spayed on insulation?
Open-cell foam will be the R-17, and closed-cell foam will be the R-25. That also includes using the Reflectix and reinstalling the plastic trim panels on top of everything, too.

By itself, open-cell foam will be between R-3½ to R-4 per inch. Combine that with the Reflectix which gives a minimum of R-8 (when installed with a void, as in an attic, or over the top of foam insulation, as in a van) and the total R-factor will be around R-17.

In some areas you'll have less than an inch of foam, and in others you'll have 3 or 4 inches, maybe more. So it'll vary a lot around the van.

Closed-cell foam can come in a wide variety of densities, with the higher the density the higher the R-factor (and the higher the weight and strength). Because closed-cell is more dense, and therefor uses more material, it's more costly. At minimal density, closed-cell foam will provide about an R-6. The Great Stuff canned foam is more dense and provides R-7 to R-8.

Open-cell foam weighs between 6.4 and 8 ounces (0.4 to 0.5 pound) per cubic foot.

Closed-cell foam for the R-6 density will weight in at about 1.7 pounds per cubic foot. For the R-7 to R-8 density, it'll weight in at 2 pounds per cubic foot.

For roofing installations where traffic and heavy loads are a factor, you might want it in a density of 3 pounds per cubic foot, and it'll have a correspondingly higher R-factor. In some applications, both insulation and purely decorative, the foam is molded in 30-40 pounds per cubic foot densities. Can't do that with open-cell foam.
 

greg334

Veteran Expediter
I thought the Great foam stuff was open cell insulation, but if it is closed cell, then that means no water retention ... right?
 

Turtle

Administrator
Staff member
Retired Expediter
Right. Great Stuff is closed-cell. No water retention, and more importantly, provides a water vapor barrier.

It's billed as a polyurethane, but it's actually more accurately a mixture of polyol, isocyanates, and ether, in kind of a polystyrene-polyisocyanurate hybrid. The benefits of the closed-cell polyurethane and the cyanates, with the lightness and flexibility of polystyrene that would normally only be found in open-cell foams.

Some types of Great Stuff are not flexible when cured, and will behave more like the traditional closed-cell foam. Gaps & Cracks, Big Gap Filler, Fireblock and Pond & Stone all dry rigid. The Window & Door is flexible when cured, but still is impervious to water vapor.
 
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