van flooring part 2

[LDB]

We took the rubber mat out this morning and looked at the floor. It is ridges and channels all the way across. Most of the ridges are about an inch wide. A couple of them are about two inches wide. One stupid ridge is only about 1/2" wide and of course it is where one etrack needs to attach to the floor. There are ridges spaced perfectly for the sides of the etrack to align with the sides of the ridges. That would seem to give the best welding option however that means the plywood will be lower than the etrack. The plywood affixed to the ridges will be about 1/16" lower than the track.

Anyway, to avoid the stupid skinny ridge that messes things up means putting the left row, looking in from the back doors, about 10.5" from the wheelwell. The right row about 11" from the right wheelwell and about 19" between the tracks. I wanted 12/12 for the sides leaving about 13.75 for the center.

So, is it going to be a big problem if the etrack is slightly higher than the plywood?

Is it going to be a problem, other than looking stupid, if the spacing is off?

Anything else you guys with experience see in this scenario that I haven't seen to ask?

 

[guido4475]

I don't think it will look stupid, as well as it is funtional and works. I have 53" between my wheel wells, and have the distance between the two rows of e-track close to 24", so I can strap down small as well as large skids.I placed my e-track on top of the ridges,so I can weld the sides of the e-track to the top of the ridges on both sides of the e-track.Then I used big self-tapping screws and screwed the plywood to the floor, on top of the e-track sides,after I countersunk the holes a little to keep the screw heads flush with the plywood. Pleae note, after doing this, I found out that it would of been easier to put the plywood next to the plywood instead of on top of the part that has the screw holes in it, reason being, it would be easier to get your fingers in to un-latch the straps, etc. More finger room.

 

[LDB]

I planned to have the plywood edge touching the etrack edge so there was no overlap. Originally I had hoped the channels would be wide enough for the etrack to be in the channel so the plywood would be a little higher than the etrack. That won't work so the etrack will be a little higher than the plywood by maybe 1/8". I should have about 20" center to center of the etrack latching slots I think. I believe that will be a good distance, far enough to secure anything but close enough to hold the smaller things. Time will tell I guess.

 

[guido4475]

Another thing I forgot to point out was that it may be a good idea to have the e-track on top of the channels so there is space under the e-track for the strap ends to go into, also.Luckily, I tried this both ways, and it works better with the e-track on top of the ridges/channels.

 

[LDB]

Yes, mine will be on the ridges so the channel will be beneath it although some are so close together there may be a ridge down the center of the etrack slot as well.

 

[LDB]

It occurs to me that I could swap my 1/2" plywood for 5/8" plywood and that will make it about even with the etrack. I guess tomorrow it's another trip to Lowe's.

 

[flattop40]

I personally think you will have problems with the e-track higher than your plywood. I have replaced my floor after learning the hard way.

My first floor was first off particle board which was a huge mistake then I used 7/16" which put it just about flush and there were many times that the freight woulld "catch" on the e-track.

Redid my floor this summer and put in 3/4" plywood with the center board at 18" which put the e-track stradling the ridges which allows you to clip very easily. I, however, still have the rubber matt in place. I used selftapping flathead screws to secure it. I left the matt for insulation and noise reduction purposes.

With the new floor I have been extremely happy.

Just my 2 cents worth.

 

[LDB]

I wanted to spot weld the etrack and liquid nails the plywood to avoid holes in the floor. That also keeps the original floor covering whole in case I ever want to put it back in. We're going tomorrow and swap the plywood for a thicker sheet. I think the 5/8" would be the right size to make it just a hair higher than the etrack but leave as much cargo height as possible.

 

[Turtle]

If you properly apply the Liquid nails so that the adhesion is sufficient to do the job for expediting, when it comes time to remove the plywood deck, whether it's to replace damaged deck 6 months from now, or to permanently remove it when you want to sell the van, do you really think it's gonna pop right up like you want it to?

If you use the proper assortment of wedges, chisels, hammers and crowbars, and power sanders to clean it all up, it shouldn't be a problem. Or, if you have one, a Sledge-O-Matic will work great, but you've got to hit that sucker juuuuust right.

Whatever you do to the can, in the back of your mind, or perhaps in the front of it, you have to think, "How do I install this in such a way that I can remove it quickly and easily, or at the very least with the least amount of time and trouble?" Liquid nails and spot-welded e-track, I dunno. Filling a few holes with liquid metal and a putty knife will be infinitely easier than trying to rip up plywood that's been bonded to metal for months or years, not to mention that if you want to replace a damaged deck with another sheet of plywood, you'll have just oodles of fun getting the Liquid Nails residue off the floor of the van in order to give it a proper surface for the new deck.

I had a problem with a couple of screws on the shelving, kept working loose. Threadlock didn't work, and I eventually stripped one hole, went to a larger screw, and that didn't work, either. My last resort was rivets. Absolutely securely fastened, but that means drilling them out instead of simply removing the screws. I'm just sayin'. Think about it some more before you take that walk down Dave Lane towards Complicate The Simple Avenue.