Big Truck I work on Hino trucks. I'll answer any questions I know the answers to.
- Thread starter greasytshirt
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- 2016 hino
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No idea. I'd have to look it up.
rhitrucking
Active Expediter
"If the turbo intake is relatively clean, but oily goo is coming out of the compressor outlet and ending up in the intercooler, this can be a problem. Given enough time, the goo effectively blocks much of the core, starving the engine of air."
I assume the compressor needs a rebuild or replacement if this is the case?
I assume the compressor needs a rebuild or replacement if this is the case?
Well, that depends. All of the 2005-2010 model year truck have turbos that seem to pass some oil to a degree.
If the turbo has no perceptible axial play, and not enough radial play to touch the compressor wheel against the housing at all, and it freely spins and doesn't stick with some pressure put sideways on the shaft (this is hard to describe), and what its leaking is oily and not like tar, then its probably ok.
If the hose from the turbo to the intercooler has sticky tar-like junk building up in it, or if oil has made it all the way through the intercooler into the intake manifold, then you have a problem.
Its very important to make sure that any excess oil is not coming from the crankcase breather. It enters at the turbo inlet. If you only look at the turbo outlet, you only get half the picture. Being overfilled with oil is the main cause. These only hold 16 quarts of oil, more does not help. This is a frequent, easily preventable problem.
If the engine has high mileage and some blowby, the crankcase breather cap and coalescing filter from an 11-13 truck can be added. There's a piece inside that will have to be removed for the filter to fit. It just slides out. The filter change interval is every 60k. It helps with condensing oil vapor back into a liquid and returning it to the crankcase.
I don't know the year or mileage of your truck, but its my understanding that some 08-10 trucks just got an extension of turbo warranty, up to 200 or 250k miles. I don't usually deal with this side of the process, so I don't have the details. Just for the hell of it, id call your local dealer with the VIN and mileage and have them check for any available warranty. Computer reflashes may be available too, and these are often warranted. The software updates are designed to lessen soot production, and we've seen less Dpf problems as a result.
rhitrucking
Active Expediter
Do you happen to know the part number for the cap and filter? My turbo to intercooler hose had a bunch of tar like substance. However, the turbo did go out and was replaced. Since then I cleaned the hose and now its just oily. My crankcase blow by hose is fairly clean, but my compressor hose has oil in it, so I am assuming thats where most of it is coming from. I actually disconnected and capped the line for the air compressor and then ran a new line from the air compressor to the atmosphere down under the motor to see if I still get oil buildup in the intercooler hose.
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Make sure you're not gonna suck debris into the compressor. Replacing it is a several hour nightmare. Id consider just removing the hose from the crankcase filter, capping the hose (don't let the engine eat whatever's capping the hose) then running another hose from the filter to a catch can or something.
My wife is currently using the desktop to stream netflix, so it'll be a while before I get back to you on that.
I'm no good at getting part numbers in a timely fashion. 
rhitrucking
Active Expediter
no hurry...when you get time
rhitrucking
Active Expediter
Thank You!
Since im at work on a Saturday night by myself, I finally have the time to answer.
Looking in the service manual, the FA and FB got the AT545 , FD, FE got a 2400 series (LCT2400 according to the book), and the SG got a MD3060P, whatever the heck that is.
Thx. But I was told the 2000 FF had a at545 and most likely the FE as well, it's a pretty weak tranny for that size of truck. For FA and FB it would be perfect for it. I don't understand why they would put such a light duty tranny in a big truck.
The MD3060 is good tranny that's the one they should of used in the FF as well.
But my question was for 04 FF and the alllison 2400 is a better choice than the previous years they used the at545
The MD3060 is good tranny that's the one they should of used in the FF as well.
But my question was for 04 FF and the alllison 2400 is a better choice than the previous years they used the at545
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I'm not sure if I've ever heard of an FF. I know I've never seen one, and there was no mention in any book I opened.
Some things of interest...
In the last couple of weeks, I've had a couple of trucks come in with complaints of absolutely zero power, then a big surge and everything is normal. Always happens when starting from a stop.
There's at least one switch on the brake pedal. Two for hydraulic brake trucks, one for air brake. If the pedal is released, it should be closing one of them. Problem is, over time the brake pedal return spring loses some tension, and the pedal does not completely return to its stop. The switch in question does not operate the brake lights, rather it tells the ecu that the brakes are applied and to disallow response from the engine. Basically, it's to keep from power braking the engine.
The temporary fix is to turn the switch counterclockwise (which releases it), push it down another tooth or two, then twist it clockwise to secure it. About a quarter turn to unlock and lock.
The correct way to fix it is to replace the pedal return spring (which is fairly simple).
In the last couple of weeks, I've had a couple of trucks come in with complaints of absolutely zero power, then a big surge and everything is normal. Always happens when starting from a stop.
There's at least one switch on the brake pedal. Two for hydraulic brake trucks, one for air brake. If the pedal is released, it should be closing one of them. Problem is, over time the brake pedal return spring loses some tension, and the pedal does not completely return to its stop. The switch in question does not operate the brake lights, rather it tells the ecu that the brakes are applied and to disallow response from the engine. Basically, it's to keep from power braking the engine.
The temporary fix is to turn the switch counterclockwise (which releases it), push it down another tooth or two, then twist it clockwise to secure it. About a quarter turn to unlock and lock.
The correct way to fix it is to replace the pedal return spring (which is fairly simple).
jeffcarl
Seasoned Expediter
My new (to me) Hino 338 update. After searching for a few months I bought a 2013 with about 60,000 miles. Came to me as cab & chassis. From NYC to Rochester NY it gave me 12.8 mpg; not too bad for a 33k truck, but no box yet. Just putting it in service today (4/21/14) with a 25' box. It will be interesting to see its performance, and I will post my experiences. Thanks to greasytshirt for excellent guidance throughout the purchase process.
jeff
jeff
Awesome! Glad I could help. Any questions, just ask.
EASYTRADER
Expert Expediter
How about oil leaking from the rear passenger side of headgasket???
No coolant use?
O7 338 just put a new head on within 50k
Sent from my SPH-D700 using EO Forums mobile app
No coolant use?
O7 338 just put a new head on within 50k
Sent from my SPH-D700 using EO Forums mobile app
Very common. Not sure I have a good answer. Was sealant put in the two tiny slots in head gasket upon install? Oil would be leaking directly at the seam between head and bellhousiñg.
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