Big Truck I work on Hino trucks. I'll answer any questions I know the answers to.

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greasytshirt

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Mechanic
Wanna see a couple pics?

Where's the hood? Lemme guess, it cracked so bad, it was about to fall off.

It looks pretty good to me.

Actually, now would be a great time to do some maintenance. The radiator fins get horribly clogged, but it's not noticeable until the condenser and intercooler are removed. I'd consider doing that before the hood went back on.

The pic of the engine reminded me that the VNT link on the turbo should occasionally be lubed with nickel antiseize. Use this type. Loctite Nickel Anti Seize 12 oz. Spray Can Loc tite: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
 

showtimes2

Rookie Expediter
Found it! If anyone needs to know.....Inside the cab take 2 screws out of the plastic trim around the brake handle. Remove the clevis pin, loosen the locknut on the end of the cable and turn the u shaped bracket. Unfortunately I have very little shoe left, almost out of adjustment, and I will have to replace them this summer. $110 for the shoes...ouch! Anyone know of a good place to buy parts??? Thanks GTS
I think it's under the truck, at the end of the cable, rear of transmission, at the drum on the end of the trans. This style, available on many trucks, is famous for grenading. Make sure it's not flopping all around before adjusting it.

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greasytshirt

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Found it! If anyone needs to know.....Inside the cab take 2 screws out of the plastic trim around the brake handle. Remove the clevis pin, loosen the locknut on the end of the cable and turn the u shaped bracket. Unfortunately I have very little shoe left, almost out of adjustment, and I will have to replace them this summer. $110 for the shoes...ouch! Anyone know of a good place to buy parts??? Thanks GTS

Somewhere like truckpro might be able to get the entire assembly, aftermarket, for that price. Like for an International 4000 series truck, or something. Leave the backing plate bolted to the back of the transmission rather than taking the whole thing off and doing it on a workbench. It's impossible to put back together otherwise.

If you have a place nearby that does stuff like rebuilding starters and alternators, call and ask if they reline brake shoes. They'll have to drill holes in the shoes and rivet friction material to them, rather than gluing it on, but that'll still be less than half the price of new ones.

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greasytshirt

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Found it! If anyone needs to know.....Inside the cab take 2 screws out of the plastic trim around the brake handle. Remove the clevis pin, loosen the locknut on the end of the cable and turn the u shaped bracket. Unfortunately I have very little shoe left, almost out of adjustment, and I will have to replace them this summer. $110 for the shoes...ouch! Anyone know of a good place to buy parts??? Thanks GTS

Oops. You're right, it's in the cab. Maybe it's the earlier ones adjusted at the drum. Idk.

I hopped over to www.rockauto.com, which is my favorite site for buying car parts. They've recently started listing some commercial truck parts, too. Nothing listed for parking brakes on a Hino (but service brake pads look pretty inexpensive ). I looked up a 1998 International 4900, and they have parking brake shoes for that truck for $22 before shipping. Shows a picture of them, too. Says its for a 9"x3" drum. If your parking brake drum measures out the same (measured from inside), and they physically look the same, I bet it's the same shoes. They have a really good return policy just in case im totally wrong.

Im a terrible cheapskate, and this is the kind of gamble I like taking, lol.

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coalminer

Veteran Expediter
Retired Expediter
Is there an adjustment on the parking brake cable of my 2007 model 268? Hydraulic brakes and automatic. Thanks!


On my 2005, the parking brake adjustment is on the end of the brake handle, if you turn the little knob at the end of the handle clockwise, it will adjust it tighter. When I got my truck there was almost no resistance to apply the brake, found out it wasn't working at all, twisted that a few times to the point where there was some resistance and it works great now.
 

coalminer

Veteran Expediter
Retired Expediter
Speaking of hoods, here is how I had to fix my hood:

hood.jpg

And here is the pic of my radiator repair

radiator.jpg
 

greasytshirt

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Yeah, those hoods are something else. They changed suppliers with the new models.

You can get the radiator tanks separately. Whether you can keep them from leaking is an entirely different matter.

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Gordy

Rookie Expediter
Greasytshirt,
I was following this post. I have a chance to purchase a 07 Hino 145 with 165k miles.
It had a problem with pressure in the radiator, blowing anti-freeze out the over flow tank. It had the oil cooler checked and the head off and checked out to be ok. The head is still off the engine. But the owner has givin up and doesn't want to put anymore money in it and wants to sell it for $4800. I thought I'd take a chance on it. What do you think? Thanks.
 

jeffcarl

Seasoned Expediter
Mr GS: Looked at the 07 338 yesterday. All the aluminum in the engine compartment is really corroded, the oil pan is rusted really badly & looks like an awl would go right through it, there are mismatched tires in the back, & there is evidence of (previous?) water leak in one of the upper front corners of the box. I can see the crack in the corner piece. Also looks like this truck really earned its living, lots of fork-lift traffic in & out of the box. On the positive side, it does run really well, from dead cold no skip & smooth.

Final analysis: keep looking, this one ain't it.

Thank you for the input, it was very helpful.

jeff
 

greasytshirt

Moderator
Staff member
Mechanic
Greasytshirt,
I was following this post. I have a chance to purchase a 07 Hino 145 with 165k miles.
It had a problem with pressure in the radiator, blowing anti-freeze out the over flow tank. It had the oil cooler checked and the head off and checked out to be ok. The head is still off the engine. But the owner has givin up and doesn't want to put anymore money in it and wants to sell it for $4800. I thought I'd take a chance on it. What do you think? Thanks.

Was there evidence of a blown head gasket? Usually you see evidence of leakage past the graphite seals, which are located in the space where the liners meet each other. They'll either look distorted, or a piece will be missing.

Places I've seen gases enter the cooling system: EGR cooler (rare), water pump carbon seal (fairly common), injector cups (not unheard of), air compressor (rare). Coolant also goes through the EGR valve body, but that's a long shot. A faulty radiator cap can also allow a large amount of coolant to escape.

Before the head went back on, I'd put injector cups and a water pump on it, if for no other reason than it's a whole lot easier now.

Do you know if it ever had a significant overheat? Any head bolts break?
 

greasytshirt

Moderator
Staff member
Mechanic
Also looks like this truck really earned its living, lots of fork-lift traffic in & out of the box. On the positive side, it does run really well, from dead cold no skip & smooth.

Final analysis: keep looking, this one ain't it.


jeff

I think that's a pretty fair analysis!
 

Gordy

Rookie Expediter
Thank you for responding,
The guy that has it now is a used truck jockey, and he doesn't know any of the history of the truck.
When he got it he discovered the problem. He took it to a Hino dealer in Indianapolis, and they took off the head, didn't notice anything wrong with the head gasket. Had the head magnafluxed and it checked out ok. The dealership told the truck guy that he most likely had a cracked block. Thats when he decided to quit spending money on it, and sell it. So, it's a shot in the dark.
 

greasytshirt

Moderator
Staff member
Mechanic
Thank you for responding,
The guy that has it now is a used truck jockey, and he doesn't know any of the history of the truck.
When he got it he discovered the problem. He took it to a Hino dealer in Indianapolis, and they took off the head, didn't notice anything wrong with the head gasket. Had the head magnafluxed and it checked out ok. The dealership told the truck guy that he most likely had a cracked block. Thats when he decided to quit spending money on it, and sell it. So, it's a shot in the dark.

It would have had to go thermonuclear to crack the block. Only time I've seen the block crack is when a rod goes through the side of it.

Granted, anything is possible. Id inspect the block deck for cracks. They make a penetrating dye kit to do this.

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zorry

Veteran Expediter
KC should have brake shops that will reline your shoes .
Or there may be HD parts houses like Fleet Pro, etc that you need to get familiar with.
 

greasytshirt

Moderator
Staff member
Mechanic
All of the conventional trucks from 2005 up are built with common American chassis/brake/axle/driveline/transmission/suspension/steering parts, all of which should be available from regular parts suppliers. If one can cross reference these parts, they can be obtained nearly anywhere.

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showtimes2

Rookie Expediter
Downloaded a service manual from Trade Bit for $30,(Hino is about $500) highly recommend it if you work on your own stuff like I do, and a Hino quick reference guide(free) which shows alot of part numbers. Looks like the shoes are a common 9" x 3" #4152206 and I found them online for $54. Yay! Local brake rebuilding place said they could probably do it but didn't give me a cost. Yeah, once you realize what you have you find out these have many common parts on them.
All of the conventional trucks from 2005 up are built with common American chassis/brake/axle/driveline/transmission/suspension/steering parts, all of which should be available from regular parts suppliers. If one can cross reference these parts, they can be obtained nearly anywhere.

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greasytshirt

Moderator
Staff member
Mechanic
Downloaded a service manual from Trade Bit for $30,(Hino is about $500) highly recommend it if you work on your own stuff like I do, and a Hino quick reference guide(free) which shows alot of part numbers. Looks like the shoes are a common 9" x 3" #4152206 and I found them online for $54. Yay! Local brake rebuilding place said they could probably do it but didn't give me a cost. Yeah, once you realize what you have you find out these have many common parts on them.

Were they the same as the $22 ones I mentioned earlier?

We should start a parts cross reference.

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showtimes2

Rookie Expediter
After comparing the drawing from the Hino manual and the actual picture at Rock Auto I would say definitely maybe. They sure look alike but I can't get any of their numbers to cross to a Bendix 4152206. By the way, I think the front shocks are Gabriel # 83140 also. Found them for $35 each online.
Were they the same as the $22 ones I mentioned earlier?

We should start a parts cross reference.

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