Do you know how many hours labor the book shows to replace the front main oil seal for my 2005 268? I show that it needs special tool number 380100029, when I searched that number, it shows like $550 for that tool so it looks like I would be better just paying the dealer to replace it. I have replaced that seal once myself, but without the tool, it still leaks, and I doubt there is any fuel in the oil as the level is dropping. Thanks in advance!!!
Big Truck I work on Hino trucks. I'll answer any questions I know the answers to.
- Thread starter greasytshirt
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You know, I have no idea. I'm at a rare hourly shop, we don't get paid flat rate, so we're not constantly hounded about making time. I'll venture a guess of around two hours, max.
Yes, you need the tool; it's not a simple device.
Wow, that was fast, thanks!!!!
I would have figured about 2 hours myself, but I didn't know if the book said that the radiator had to be removed, when I did it, I just unhooked the 2 side braces and leaned the radiator forward a little and removed the fan and shroud.
Im at home in Lakeland Florida and there is a Hino dealer here in Lakeland, so looks like im going to give them a call in the morning see if they can fit me in this week.
Guess I have to spend some money for a change, I only gave 5000 for this truck a year ago, put almost 100k on it and have not spent much on repairs, so I cant complain, been a great truck so far.
I spend a ridiculous amount of time on the internet. I've been on a youtube bender for about three hours now. Did you know that some old tractors were started with a shotgun shell? That's nuts.
I use the same method. Generally I take a 55 gallon drum, throw a board across it, throw an old seat cushion on top, and that gives the hood something to rest on. At that point, you can leave the hood cables attached and loosen the radiator support arms, and the whole assembly gently relaxes out of the way.
Thanks for the information. I took it into the local hino shop and they finally called today saying that #3 only has 100 and the others 420 & 430 on the compression test. I will be asking about the valves when I go by the shop Tesday and let you know.
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Fudge.
The high blowby plus low compression means a piston scuffed. They're gonna recommend a rebuild.
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Piston scuffing is often the result of piston overheat. High coolant temp is often a culprit, but leaking injectors are common too. Fuel in the cylinder at the wrong time will cause massive spikes in cylinder pressure and piston crown overheat. An aluminum piston quickly swells so it fits too tight in the cylinder, and the aluminum goes plastic at those temps. It will get very weak and might start to crumble at hot spots. Pretty soon aluminum smears down the length of the liner, then its all over. A misaligned piston cooling nozzle can exacerbate the problem. Its important for their spray pattern to be checked during a rebuild if one expects the engine to run a million miles.
I rebuilt the engine in a Hino 268 moving van with an injector failure .Aluminum particles left the combustion chamber and damaged the turbo on it's way out.
On that truck, I had to replace all the pistons and liners, one rod, the pin bushings in the other rods had started to twist out of position. Head went to a machine shop to be cleaned, pressure tested, and it had a valve job done with all new valves, springs, locks and retainers. The cam had scuffing from overused oil, the water pump leaked as well as the radiator. All were replaced. I had to weld a crack in the intercooler. All in all, the price was around $17k. On the first job it went on, the driver put it in drive instead of overdrive, and red-lined it from Virginia to Ohio. He called, furious. Shop manager asked him some questions then asked him to put it in overdrive. Problem solved. I forget the guy's reason for not using overdrive, but it was ridiculous. Anyway, the engine survived with no ill effects, but that guys warranty evaporated on the first trip. We changed his oil for free, fixed some other stuff for him, and we haven't seen him since.
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Ugh, I went to replace my tensioner and serpentine belt, didn't go to the dealer, but Oriley's show the belt as a K080514 Gates, and the tensioner as a 38659, so I went to Ebay and ordered both, now the tensioner was identical and went right into place, but the belt is too short when compared to the old one. Not even close to being able to get it over all of the pulleys. EBay's parts finder shows that it should fit my 05 268, and the odd thing is that it shows that belt is only used on Hino's. Guess I make a trip to the dealer tomorrow....
I don't remember which models/years this pertains to, but I've personally done this. Get belt from parts. Too short. Get another belt from parts. Goes on a little too easy, and it squeals sometimes. Get first belt I got from parts (parts guy is pretty fed up at this point) because I realized that I had it routed wrong. There's two ways the belt can go on that makes sense, but only one is correct.
The K080539HD is the Gates belt for the 08-10 trucks (according to Rockauto.com). The K080514 is 52 inches in circumference, and the K080539HD is 54.5 inches. It's only available as a Heavy Duty belt, so that sucker is like $50.
At some point, there was a change in tensioners or something, and the listings get screwy. Even looking it up by VIN is not 100% accurate, depending on tensioner.
At some point, there was a change in tensioners or something, and the listings get screwy. Even looking it up by VIN is not 100% accurate, depending on tensioner.
zorry
Veteran Expediter
My Volvo has a decal of the belt routing on the frame rail.
When I get a truck I put a diagram of the belt routing and wire placement on batteries in my maint file.
A Pete dealer once removed my battery box. Upon install he had extra wires which the tech just wedged down between two batteries !
When I get a truck I put a diagram of the belt routing and wire placement on batteries in my maint file.
A Pete dealer once removed my battery box. Upon install he had extra wires which the tech just wedged down between two batteries !
I am going to have to check, the only other way I could think that the belt could be routed would take an even longer belt (or at least that's what it seems).
There is no routing diagram anywhere I can find, but I have it going from the crank, up to the water pump, over to the alternator, then the tensioner is between the alternator and the crank.
Now since the tensioner pushes up, so the only other way I think it could go is up from the crank, over the tensioner, around the water pump then to the alternator and back to the crank.
No diagrams on Google, can find pretty much everything else on there, but not that diagram....
Cut the old belt and measured it, 55.5 inches long, so Gates has it wrong, wonder if they are the ones that screwed it up or if they are just copying somewhere else.
Cut the old belt and measured it, 55.5 inches long, so Gates has it wrong, wonder if they are the ones that screwed it up or if they are just copying somewhere else.
Rockauto showed a different belt number in addition to the gates number that was wrong, went and searched it at autozone and low and behold, they could order it, 26.95, told me it would take like 4 days to get, but 2 days later they had it. Went right on without any problems, but in my attempt to get the new belt by the fan, I broke the little 3/8" nipple off of the radiator that is the return line coming from the EGR cooler......UGH!!!!
Well, I am going to try to drill out that hole, thread it with a 1/4 NPT pipe tap, and thread a brass nipple into that hole with some JB water weld around it. Don't know if that is going to work, but will try that before I spend the $500 I found for a new radiator on Ebay....
Well, I am going to try to drill out that hole, thread it with a 1/4 NPT pipe tap, and thread a brass nipple into that hole with some JB water weld around it. Don't know if that is going to work, but will try that before I spend the $500 I found for a new radiator on Ebay....
Yes, you can drill and tap that, no problem. I'd start with a smaller 1/8 NPT barb fitting. 1/4 is rather large.
It's easy to break. I've done it before. Hino also suggests fixing it like this before resorting to radiator replacement.
It's easy to break. I've done it before. Hino also suggests fixing it like this before resorting to radiator replacement.
showtimes2
Rookie Expediter
I just read the whole thread since I bought an '07 268 automatic yesterday. I have maintenance questions. I do my own since I have never been happy with any shop I have used in the 4 years I have been doing this! Even a simple oil change can't seem to be performed around here. My truck has 280k and is fresh off of a long term lease. I drove an M2,a 4300 IHC, and then a Hino 268 rental when my old 4700 killed another AT545 at 520k 2 weeks ago. I was amazed at how much better the Hino accelerated, coupled with mileage, tightness, and the lack of rattles and squeaks compared to the others. I drive 320 miles a day, 5 days a week, all hiway. My main questions are: What oil should I use and how often should I change it? How often on the fuel filter? What about transmission service? Anything I should replace or look at specifically at this stage in it's life? I got it back to KC and tried to plug it in for the night......surprise! No plug in for block heat! At least not under the door where it should be. Is it possible it was not equipped with one? Where is it at on the engine if it has one, and what should I install if it never had one? I am waiting for the service records from the lease company so until then I am flying blind. Thanks for any help!
'07 was the last year before they put DPFs on all of them, so this makes things easier. The regen process tended to dilute the oil with fuel, which is hard on the oil. A castrol semi synthetic is used on trucks 08 and up. You can run pretty much anything you want. Rotella, delo, valvoline premium blue, that supertech stuff from walmart, whatever. Im a fan of oil analysis, so id run it to 7500, take a sample, have it analyzed, and then run it to 10k. Id change at 10k, unless oil analysis shows no reason to. Maybe a sample quarterly just to see what its doing. It holds 16 quarts, which might explain this rather short drain interval.
Id remove the intercooler and condenser (leave the lines attached and move it out of the way), soak the radiator fins with something aluminum safe like simple green, then very thoroughly hose it out. Follow with compressed air, carefully. No pressure washer. The fins are delicate. The amount of crap that gets stuck in their radiators is incredible, but you can't see it unless the intercooler comes out. I guarantee this has never been done. Seriously, do it.
I'd do it annually, these engines don't like to overheat.
Id change the trans fluid and filters annually too. Both the one under the pan, and the spin-on. Make sure you get the magnet off of the old spin on filter and put it on the new one. Same with magnet inside pan, don't forget to put it back in after you clean it. Use BP TranSyn 295 fluid, it's designed to work with Allison adaptive shifting. Dexron III can be used in a pinch, but it needs to be changed to the 295 fluid when you have a chance. A drain and fill will require just slightly under three gallons.
I personally recommend changing the fuel filter every 5k miles, regardless of any factory suggestion. They develop injector problems if the change interval is too long. It's a high efficiency filter, a regular ol' filter is not good enough. Id also avoid fuel additives, especially those that claim to remove water.
Im pretty sure the block heater us on the left side of the engine, but I've honestly never messed with one. They were not a standard feature. Id have to look up where its supposed to go exactly.
Adjust the valves every 50k. It may not have ever been done. For this adjustment, id do the crossheads too, just be super duper extra careful not to bend or damage the fuel return line at all. Seriously. If I take one off, I don't reuse it. There's a very specific way that's installed. If it leaks, it can take out the whole engine.
Occasionally hit the VNT linkage with nickel antiseize. Loctite makes it in an aerosol, and I absolutely recommend using it on any exhaust system fastener you encounter.
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Id remove the intercooler and condenser (leave the lines attached and move it out of the way), soak the radiator fins with something aluminum safe like simple green, then very thoroughly hose it out. Follow with compressed air, carefully. No pressure washer. The fins are delicate. The amount of crap that gets stuck in their radiators is incredible, but you can't see it unless the intercooler comes out. I guarantee this has never been done. Seriously, do it.
I'd do it annually, these engines don't like to overheat.
Id change the trans fluid and filters annually too. Both the one under the pan, and the spin-on. Make sure you get the magnet off of the old spin on filter and put it on the new one. Same with magnet inside pan, don't forget to put it back in after you clean it. Use BP TranSyn 295 fluid, it's designed to work with Allison adaptive shifting. Dexron III can be used in a pinch, but it needs to be changed to the 295 fluid when you have a chance. A drain and fill will require just slightly under three gallons.
I personally recommend changing the fuel filter every 5k miles, regardless of any factory suggestion. They develop injector problems if the change interval is too long. It's a high efficiency filter, a regular ol' filter is not good enough. Id also avoid fuel additives, especially those that claim to remove water.
Im pretty sure the block heater us on the left side of the engine, but I've honestly never messed with one. They were not a standard feature. Id have to look up where its supposed to go exactly.
Adjust the valves every 50k. It may not have ever been done. For this adjustment, id do the crossheads too, just be super duper extra careful not to bend or damage the fuel return line at all. Seriously. If I take one off, I don't reuse it. There's a very specific way that's installed. If it leaks, it can take out the whole engine.
Occasionally hit the VNT linkage with nickel antiseize. Loctite makes it in an aerosol, and I absolutely recommend using it on any exhaust system fastener you encounter.
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