I'm going to have to google that, because i don't know if I've ever seen one.
Big Truck I work on Hino trucks. I'll answer any questions I know the answers to.
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I'm going to have to google that, because i don't know if I've ever seen one.
zorry
Veteran Expediter
In Janesville the trucks were assembled generically.
If a dealer ordered four GMC W-4's the units were pulled in and given GMC badging and paperwork. That same vehicle could be a Chevy or an Isuzu.
The Conventionals were just a GMC with Isuzu badging.They were produced at Truck and Bus in Flint,Mi.
Some dealers took a few, but an Isuzu customer generally came in looking for a COE.
If a dealer ordered four GMC W-4's the units were pulled in and given GMC badging and paperwork. That same vehicle could be a Chevy or an Isuzu.
The Conventionals were just a GMC with Isuzu badging.They were produced at Truck and Bus in Flint,Mi.
Some dealers took a few, but an Isuzu customer generally came in looking for a COE.
Batteries: new trucks come with exide. They aren't very good. Warranty is a year, have them load tested before warranty is up, and chances are one will be flakey. Boom, two new batteries.
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Battery clamps: thick solid brass, including threaded post. Avoid the temptation to crank down on them, or stud stretches and soon becomes useless. Just snug them up, and they'll last forever.
If you're in there cleaning everything, throw clamps in hot water. All corrosion comes off in a couple minutes with no scrubbing.
If you're in there cleaning everything, throw clamps in hot water. All corrosion comes off in a couple minutes with no scrubbing.
Grounds: more than once, I've run into trucks with strange u codes, that is, a fault in the CAN BUS. If you're running in areas that have lots of road salt, its worse. Take off all grounds, grind paint off of frame or body, smear on some grease, and tighten well. The frame and cab grounds didn't have paint removed between this connection, like most manufacturers. Grounds are at neg battery cable, maybe one behind battery box, left rear of cab to frame, maybe one on frame a couple feet behind cab, one or two on left frame front of cab, and right frame in front of cab.
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Another common problem : the blower motor quits working. If you jiggle the switch it might come on momentarily. What's happening is the blower motor itself is starting to fail, or there's debris in it, or two many coffees have been spilled in the vents andthe motor is pulling too many amps. The blower switch and its electrical connector overheat and melt. The motor resistor is generally unaffected. The switch has to be replaced, the connector body and melted terminals too. Its a waste of time to replace the switch without the terminals and body, and even more of a waste to ignore the blower motor. When you take some dash panels off, you'll realize that the motor is impossible to remove because there's a huge bar in the way. Its not obvious, but there are 4 bolts on the other side of the firewall between air filter and engine. Remove them and it all comes out easily. The expansion valve for the ac is under it too, so an ac service would involve removing the blower box to get to the expansion valve. Getting the box out takes less than an hour
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That bar that's in the way...we've seen a couple that were cut out then welded back in, or left out entirely, courtesy of people that couldn't comprehend that bolts sometimes go through firewalls.
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Valve lash: interval is every 50k miles. They get loose over time. Too loose affects boost some, which can also affect soot buildup and Dpf regeneration. Really obnoxiously loose, the crosshead jumps up off the valves, lands on the valvespring retainers, and when the rocker presses down again, the valve locks jump out and it drops two valves. Happens occasionally on trucks with several hundred thousand miles that have never had their valves adjusted. Frankly, once every 100k is probably safe, but its recommended at 50k.
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If you've got the valve cover off for whatever reason, and you decide to start the engine, stay away from the injector wiring. There is a couple hundred volts there at an amperage significant enough to cause severe injury. If the shock don't kill ya, the involuntary spasm you'll have immediately afterward might throw your arm into the belt drive.
Some might say that the Japanese can't build a good truck, but few can argue that they can't build some pretty impressive electronics.
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Some might say that the Japanese can't build a good truck, but few can argue that they can't build some pretty impressive electronics.
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Belts and hoses: aside from some of the 338's and the four cylinder engines, there's only a couple different serpentine belts. Before you take a belt off, take a pic or draw a picture of their routing.
Its entirely possible to make either belt fit, but only one is correct. What happens is there are two logical ways to route the belt, but the wrong way with the correct belt makes it too short to get on. A trip to the dealer gets the other belt, it goes on but somewhat easier than expected. Then it squeals whenever the fan clutch comes on, and shortly afterward, all the time.
The correct belt seems to just barely fit in the correct configuration. That's what you're looking for.
All of the early belt tensioner were subject to wear after hundreds of hours. Put a wrench on it. It should only move in the direction to loosen or tighten the belt. Movement in other directions probably means there's significant wear.
Hoses- the two radiator hoses will sometimes seep where they attach to the engine and radiator. It's only noticeable a few minutes after a cold start. Simply tightening them fixes it, but its nearly impossible to do with a screwdriver. Use a ratchet and 7mm socket. I like these hose clamps much more than generic ones, the metal is thicker and more torque is possible. They can rust inside though, which makes them break occasionally if you start cranking on them.
There's a little plastic nipple sticking out of the top of the radiator. It's easy to break off. Ask me how I know. It's perfectly acceptable to drill and tap it with a 1/8 NPT tap and thread in a barbed hose fitting. Use teflon sealant. If the threads got a bit mangled, use jb weld as thread sealant. Problem solved.
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Its entirely possible to make either belt fit, but only one is correct. What happens is there are two logical ways to route the belt, but the wrong way with the correct belt makes it too short to get on. A trip to the dealer gets the other belt, it goes on but somewhat easier than expected. Then it squeals whenever the fan clutch comes on, and shortly afterward, all the time.
The correct belt seems to just barely fit in the correct configuration. That's what you're looking for.
All of the early belt tensioner were subject to wear after hundreds of hours. Put a wrench on it. It should only move in the direction to loosen or tighten the belt. Movement in other directions probably means there's significant wear.
Hoses- the two radiator hoses will sometimes seep where they attach to the engine and radiator. It's only noticeable a few minutes after a cold start. Simply tightening them fixes it, but its nearly impossible to do with a screwdriver. Use a ratchet and 7mm socket. I like these hose clamps much more than generic ones, the metal is thicker and more torque is possible. They can rust inside though, which makes them break occasionally if you start cranking on them.
There's a little plastic nipple sticking out of the top of the radiator. It's easy to break off. Ask me how I know. It's perfectly acceptable to drill and tap it with a 1/8 NPT tap and thread in a barbed hose fitting. Use teflon sealant. If the threads got a bit mangled, use jb weld as thread sealant. Problem solved.
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08-14 trucks have an exhaust brake. There's two adjustment bolts on it that limit total travel. If you're looking at it, thinking "hmm, that would work better if I adjust it so it turns farther", well, you're correct. They work GREAT if you allow them to shut further. However, if you do that, you're gonna cause a host of problems. One, the truck might not even idle if you crank up the idler knob and turn on the brake, which is what one does if they want it to warm up quickly. Two, it will interfere with a parked regen. The brake is used in conjunction with post injection to heat up the exhaust for dpf regeneration (especially on 08-10 trucks, any engine), and it'll have to inject a lot more fuel to keep the engine running at the correct rpm since the exhaust restriction is much higher than expected. This makes the temperature go way up. If the DPF gets too hot, it does this:
Don't do this. It's expensive.
Another thing: It's not like a set of jakes where you can select the number of cylinders that are engaged. It's all or nothing. If the road surface is slick and you have little load, it can actually cause the rears to break traction. It can't modulate like ABS. It can be hazardous.
If you've already fiddled with the screws, then it's time to take it to the dealer. It's adjusted by measuring injection quantity at normal operating temp with the brake on and off, and a specific difference is calculated. It should take less than half an hour if the truck is fully warmed up when it's brought in, unless one of the adjustment bolts breaks off. They sometimes get seized pretty tight.
If you need to use the exhaust brake, flip it on when you need it, and turn it off when you don't. If you leave it on when an automatic regen starts, if the accelerator is released, the exhaust brake comes on and the regen is cancelled. After a bit, it will attempt it again. This cycle will continue until the dpf starts loading up pretty high, which is when the truck will start alarming for a manual regen. Now the driver gets to sit and wait. If the manual regen is ignored or constantly interrupted, the dpf will eventually get so packed that the truck sets a fault and goes into derate, or the dpf temp goes sky high. Then this happens:
Don't do that. It's expensive.
Don't do this. It's expensive.
Another thing: It's not like a set of jakes where you can select the number of cylinders that are engaged. It's all or nothing. If the road surface is slick and you have little load, it can actually cause the rears to break traction. It can't modulate like ABS. It can be hazardous.
If you've already fiddled with the screws, then it's time to take it to the dealer. It's adjusted by measuring injection quantity at normal operating temp with the brake on and off, and a specific difference is calculated. It should take less than half an hour if the truck is fully warmed up when it's brought in, unless one of the adjustment bolts breaks off. They sometimes get seized pretty tight.
If you need to use the exhaust brake, flip it on when you need it, and turn it off when you don't. If you leave it on when an automatic regen starts, if the accelerator is released, the exhaust brake comes on and the regen is cancelled. After a bit, it will attempt it again. This cycle will continue until the dpf starts loading up pretty high, which is when the truck will start alarming for a manual regen. Now the driver gets to sit and wait. If the manual regen is ignored or constantly interrupted, the dpf will eventually get so packed that the truck sets a fault and goes into derate, or the dpf temp goes sky high. Then this happens:
Don't do that. It's expensive.
Most of the subjects I've talked about so far have addressed problems caused by lack of maintenance, improper maintenance or repair, or improper operation. When they're maintained and operated properly, we don't see them roll up into the shop very often, aside from PM services.
Does anyone have a question about maintenance, operation, or repair?
Does anyone have a question about maintenance, operation, or repair?
Trucks with Allison transmissions: if the ABS light comes on for any reason, its immediately time to stop and do some checks. You can't just keep driving without consequences. Pull off, set the brakes, chock it (don't get squished, in other words), and push all the speed sensors in. Twist and push. They'll generally go in like 1/16-1/8 inch or so. If one goes in like 1/4 or more, either there's debris all over the tone ring, or the wheel bearing is loose.
Drive some more. If the light goes out, have that wheel end checked soon.
When abs light comes on, torque converter unlocks. The TC on these is locked pretty much all the time after it shifts into second, and it doesn't unlock unless you're nearly stopped. There's an explanation fir this, but im at IHoP and my food just got here. The transmission will overheat with tc unlocked, it'll go into limp mode and inhibit shifts until it's shut off and cooled down. Overheat=shortened life.
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Drive some more. If the light goes out, have that wheel end checked soon.
When abs light comes on, torque converter unlocks. The TC on these is locked pretty much all the time after it shifts into second, and it doesn't unlock unless you're nearly stopped. There's an explanation fir this, but im at IHoP and my food just got here. The transmission will overheat with tc unlocked, it'll go into limp mode and inhibit shifts until it's shut off and cooled down. Overheat=shortened life.
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Mmmm...IHoP.
The converter unlocks because if you suddenly had to stand on the brakes, the brakes would have to overcome both the inertia of the vehicle and the rotational inertia of the powertrain. In theory the engine could stall or the brakes overcome. Putting the transmission in a state where there's slippage allowed (through the tc) allows brake input without interference.
The problem is that the cooler in the radiator is not big enough to shed all this heat. The trans quickly overheats, sometimes in like 15 min or less. Best to immediately find a place where you can safely check abs sensors for proper gap. It's realistically about all you can do on the road, its free, its easy, its a good way to inadvertently discover a loose wheel bearing, and its frequently the cause.
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The converter unlocks because if you suddenly had to stand on the brakes, the brakes would have to overcome both the inertia of the vehicle and the rotational inertia of the powertrain. In theory the engine could stall or the brakes overcome. Putting the transmission in a state where there's slippage allowed (through the tc) allows brake input without interference.
The problem is that the cooler in the radiator is not big enough to shed all this heat. The trans quickly overheats, sometimes in like 15 min or less. Best to immediately find a place where you can safely check abs sensors for proper gap. It's realistically about all you can do on the road, its free, its easy, its a good way to inadvertently discover a loose wheel bearing, and its frequently the cause.
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What I'd look for if I was shopping for a Hino
Let me start by saying that I'm not a truck driver nor do I want to be, and I know little about spec-ing a truck. All I do is fix 'em, and make maintenance recommendations.
Of course, get service records. If they're unavailable, not all hope is lost, but I'd be wary.
Have the VIN run at a dealer, and look for open recalls. There's been lots of recalls, mostly to do with software reflashes. It's important to get these done, and it's free. They are especially important on any truck with a dpf, and even more so with dpf/scr trucks. The new software keeps the emissions stuff from fouling up far less than when they first hit the market. Especially on 11-14 vehicles with dpr/scr, the software updates vastly improve burner reliability, even with a driver that interrupts regens frequently (but improper operation still tops the list for reason of failure).
The dealer can also pull up warranty history.
Engine inspection: If the truck has been overheated several times, sometimes the head gasket will start to seep coolant externally on the right rear corner of the engine. Get in there with a flashlight and look around. Putting a head gasket on one of these is pretty straightforward, but there's a ton of lines on it and it takes a while to assemble one correctly. Not something you'd want to rush. Also the oil coolers will leak coolant and oil externally. Pretty straightforward to fix this too, it's a matter of pulling the turbo and replacing three sealing rings and applying good RTV to the cooler sealing surface.
- Engine testing
An 'injection quantity test' can be performed which will reveal the health of the injectors. The truck is run at a fixed rpm for around 8 minutes and at idle for a minute while a list of parameters are being monitored. The data gathered can be graphed to show injection quantity and injector rpm delta. It'll also show individual cylinder correction values. All of this is considered to paint a picture of injector health.
You can ask for a monitored DPF regeneration to be performed. After the data is graphed, it will show temperatures in the dpf and air and fuel pressure at the burner nozzle. If something is clogged, it'll reveal it, and if there's a lost flame event, it'll show that, too.
One can also view a monitored regen. Temps before and after the DPF can be compared to show how well the system is working. This is where a properly adjusted exhaust brake comes into play.
If the truck you're considering is at a Hino dealership, then they should provide results of these tests for you, and one could argue that they should be free, or the sale contingent on these tests passing.
If you bring a potential truck in for analysis, then an agreement between buyer and seller should be put in writing before the sale is finalized. If the truck fails a test and the sale falls through, it's on the seller, or if everything passes then its on the buyer, for example.
Anyway, consider having these things done to a used truck before purchase. It may potentially save you a few headaches.
Let me start by saying that I'm not a truck driver nor do I want to be, and I know little about spec-ing a truck. All I do is fix 'em, and make maintenance recommendations.
Of course, get service records. If they're unavailable, not all hope is lost, but I'd be wary.
Have the VIN run at a dealer, and look for open recalls. There's been lots of recalls, mostly to do with software reflashes. It's important to get these done, and it's free. They are especially important on any truck with a dpf, and even more so with dpf/scr trucks. The new software keeps the emissions stuff from fouling up far less than when they first hit the market. Especially on 11-14 vehicles with dpr/scr, the software updates vastly improve burner reliability, even with a driver that interrupts regens frequently (but improper operation still tops the list for reason of failure).
The dealer can also pull up warranty history.
- All years
Engine inspection: If the truck has been overheated several times, sometimes the head gasket will start to seep coolant externally on the right rear corner of the engine. Get in there with a flashlight and look around. Putting a head gasket on one of these is pretty straightforward, but there's a ton of lines on it and it takes a while to assemble one correctly. Not something you'd want to rush. Also the oil coolers will leak coolant and oil externally. Pretty straightforward to fix this too, it's a matter of pulling the turbo and replacing three sealing rings and applying good RTV to the cooler sealing surface.
- 11-14 conventional trucks
- Engine testing
An 'injection quantity test' can be performed which will reveal the health of the injectors. The truck is run at a fixed rpm for around 8 minutes and at idle for a minute while a list of parameters are being monitored. The data gathered can be graphed to show injection quantity and injector rpm delta. It'll also show individual cylinder correction values. All of this is considered to paint a picture of injector health.
You can ask for a monitored DPF regeneration to be performed. After the data is graphed, it will show temperatures in the dpf and air and fuel pressure at the burner nozzle. If something is clogged, it'll reveal it, and if there's a lost flame event, it'll show that, too.
- 08-10 trucks
One can also view a monitored regen. Temps before and after the DPF can be compared to show how well the system is working. This is where a properly adjusted exhaust brake comes into play.
If the truck you're considering is at a Hino dealership, then they should provide results of these tests for you, and one could argue that they should be free, or the sale contingent on these tests passing.
If you bring a potential truck in for analysis, then an agreement between buyer and seller should be put in writing before the sale is finalized. If the truck fails a test and the sale falls through, it's on the seller, or if everything passes then its on the buyer, for example.
Anyway, consider having these things done to a used truck before purchase. It may potentially save you a few headaches.
Hmmm, strange, I pulled the blower motor out because I thought it was plugged with dirt, but I didn't remove that bar, will have to go back and look at it again, and see how I did it.
The blower motor looks like it'll lift straight out of the box, but it's hindered by the bar, and other stuff. After the four bolts come out of the firewall, the section of the box that the blower comes in is able to be moved, and then it's easy.
Not legally. Yeah, it'll run, it'll also have a permanent check engine light. Depending on software level, it may also derate.
Is there a particular reason you want to, besides convenience?
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Had the ABS light come on the other day, luckily it was really cold out and I was empty, so I babied it back home. Did some digging, found the manual online and found the location of the diagnostic button, the diagnostic told me the problem was in the left rear sensor, followed the wire and found it had rubbed on the frame and was grounding out, easy fix.
Now this was a Meritor ABS system, which probably is on most trucks regardless of manufacturer, look for an ABS diagnostic button by where they would plug the computer in to test the ECM. Turn the ignition on and press the button for 1 second and release and count the flashes. Hold the button for 3 seconds to clear out the memory. Got to love when you don't have to plug a reader in to tell you what the problem is.....
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