Big Truck I work on Hino trucks. I'll answer any questions I know the answers to.

[greasytshirt]

Oh, depending on the truck and axles (I don't remember), the front wheels may need to come off of the ground for the king pins to fully accept grease.
One type of axle needs the wheels up, and another type needs the wheels on the ground. Id have to look it up. I avoid doing pm's like the plague.

Sent from my DROIDX using EO Forums mobile app

 

[scottm4211]

I don't own a Hino but you sir are an asset to this board. :thumbup:

 

[greasytshirt]

I don't own a Hino but you sir are an asset to this board. :thumbup:

If I only understood my wife half as well as these trucks...

Sent from my DROIDX using EO Forums mobile app

 

[greasytshirt]

Thanks for any help!

No problem. Since Hino doesn't yet have the popularity of other brands, they can confuse and anger people trying to figure them out on their own. The dealers of multiple brands of trucks are sometimes guilty of not paying enough attention to the brand, and not giving their techs the training they need. Maybe I'm guilty of some righteous indignation regarding doing things correctly on them (ok, I know I am).

More stuff to consider doing:

Since this truck is seven years old, there's a few things that have degraded. The one's I'm concerned about include the grounds. Compared to the latest Hinos, the '07 is stone age, with three computers on board vs seven. You have the ecu, abs, and the tcm, with the tcm controlling the transmission. Rarely do the three interfere with one another.

The ecu does have a network bus that it uses to communicate with the tcm, the abs ecu, the VNT controller on the turbo, and the egr valve(s). One sure thing that will cause some headache is if there's transient voltage around. In other words, if the ground wire connections are sketchy, sometimes nonsensical codes appear. There's a main ground off of the batteries to the frame, a cab ground wire (left rear bottom of cab to left frame rail), the ATM (tcm) ground somewhere between the battery box and rear of cab (may actually be between the battery box and frame, which is a royal pita to reach), and an engine ground strap.

Remove all of the hardware securing these grounds. Grind the paint and rust off of both the cables and the frame. Make them shine. Slop thick grease or cosmoline or something that repels water and stays in place on the ground and the frame connection point, and tighten them securely. While you're at it, clean the battery terminals and clean the surface and sides of the batteries. If it has the original brass battery terminal clamps on it, be gentle on the tightening. These terminals work awesome, and they last forever, right up until the point where someone overtightens the brass stud. It stretches easily, and soon becomes useless. They're around $30 a pop, so don't mangle them. They work much better than many others I've come across. Hell, they're on the boss's pickup truck right now (one vehicle you don't want to screw up on, haha). Corrosion comes off of these very quickly if they're dropped into hot water.

Seriously serious, gentle on the torque. It's something like 10 or 12 lb-ft. You can do that with a six inch wrench and your index finger. If you give it just that little extra, it won't feel any tighter. That's because the stud is stretching. Stop!


Now it's time to momentarily derail this thread.

Cleaning the exterior of the battery: No one ever does this, but they should. If you were to take a voltmeter and touch one lead to the negative and the other to the plastic anywhere on the exterior where it's dirty, you will see voltage. Sometimes quite a bit of it. This parasitic draw slowly kills them. This is also the reason batteries should not be sat on a concrete floor. The acid on the battery reacts with the concrete and forms an electrical connection. This will drain the charge in a few weeks or less. If the exterior of the battery was cleaned of all acid, there will be no issue at all.

 

[coalminer]

Yes, you can drill and tap that, no problem. I'd start with a smaller 1/8 NPT barb fitting. 1/4 is rather large.

It's easy to break. I've done it before. Hino also suggests fixing it like this before resorting to radiator replacement.

Didn't see your post until after I did it, but I did use the 1/4 inch tap and nipple, spread some jb waterweld on the threads and around the connection and everything seems to be good.


Also i got the dayco 5080555 belt and it is perfect, I can see the tensioner and it is right in the middle of the area of travel.

Now to get the truck in the shop to get that oil leak fixed.....

 

[allways]

You state crossheads in you valve adjust. What are they? Forgive my ignorance.

 

[greasytshirt]

You state crossheads in you valve adjust. What are they? Forgive my ignorance.

No need to apologize.

On each cylinder, there are four valves but only two rocker arms. The crosshead sits on a post, with each of it's arms on the two intake (or exhaust) valves. The rocker arm presses on the crosshead, and the crosshead in turn presses both valves down simultaneously.

The crosshead needs to contact the head of each valve evenly. There is an adjustment screw on one end of it.

If you're going to adjust the crossheads, loosen all of the crosshead locknuts and back the adjuster screws out about three turns. Adjust the lash, tighten the rocker adjustment locknut, then turn the crosshead screw in. What you are looking for is to turn the screw in, while your feeler gauge is still between the rocker and crosshead, and for that screw to just touch the valve without adding to the drag on your feeler gauge. That's it.

The long rocker arms are the intakes, and the short ones are the exhaust. Intakes are 0.30mm, exhaust 0.45mm.

This tool (or one like it) might make crosshead adjustment much easier without risking the integrity of the fuel return line.

Schley Products 88800 Valve Adjustment Tool 12mm Jam Nut

 

[greasytshirt]

I've got tons of people pm'ing me and emailing me, lol. I should become a consultant.

Sent from my DROIDX using EO Forums mobile app

 

[Dreamer]

Sticking this thread for a bit since so many questions are getting asked.

Dale

 

[jeffcarl]

Hello greasyshirt,
I have an International 4700, 1999. It's getting tired & so I'm looking for a replacement. I run cabinets & counters from Rochester NY locally & about a 400 mile radius. I need 33k gvw for the loads. I'm looking at an 07 338 with 170,000 miles, air brakes, leaf springs, standard tranny, 411 in the rear end, & 24' box. Truck was a Penske rental, seems to have no alarming stuff in their mx records. Also looked at an 06 Sterling and an 05 Pete, both with <200,000 on C-7 engines. I am favorably impressed with the 338. Advice on what to look for when I personally inspect it? Also, any idea what engine rpm at 70mph would be? Any feedback on the Rochester NY dealer? (been there & they seem to be with the program) You may also want to know that only put 50,000/year on it.

I have read through all the posts on this string and as others have also said, thank you very much for sharing your knowledge.

thanks
jeff

 

[greasytshirt]

Hello greasyshirt,
I have an International 4700, 1999. It's getting tired & so I'm looking for a replacement. I run cabinets & counters from Rochester NY locally & about a 400 mile radius. I need 33k gvw for the loads. I'm looking at an 07 338 with 170,000 miles, air brakes, leaf springs, standard tranny, 411 in the rear end, & 24' box. Truck was a Penske rental, seems to have no alarming stuff in their mx records. Also looked at an 06 Sterling and an 05 Pete, both with <200,000 on C-7 engines. I am favorably impressed with the 338. Advice on what to look for when I personally inspect it? Also, any idea what engine rpm at 70mph would be? Any feedback on the Rochester NY dealer? (been there & they seem to be with the program) You may also want to know that only put 50,000/year on it.

I have read through all the posts on this string and as others have also said, thank you very much for sharing your knowledge.

thanks
jeff

Hi Jeff.

I know diddly about spec-ing a truck. I just fix 'em. As far as cruise rpm is concerned, no idea. I'd test drive it.

I despise the C7. No removable cylinder liners, the HEUI system likes to grenade and send metal through the injectors, weird things happen with the valves, and they like to shove them halfway under the cab, making them impossible to work on.

On the 338: check the right rear corner of the cylinder head, if they're run hot it may leak both oil and coolant there. The oil coolers leak both oil and coolant after a while. This was improved on later trucks, but that's not gonna help you any.

Have the dealer run an "scv test", and have them explain the results. This gives a picture of injector, injection pump, and scv (aka suction control valve aka fuel pressure regulator) health. The 05-07 trucks give a little less clear picture with this testing, but you're looking for an injection quantity of 7 or greater (not as big a deal with these older trucks, especially with manual transmissions), and "FCCB" numbers close to zero. Plus or minus 3 or 4 is where you start seeing weird idling, and they run real crappy at 5 or -5. 10 is baaaaad.

Make them cycle the VNT controller while you watch, and the EGR valves, too. Deviation should not exceed 5%.

Play with the blower motor switch. The blower motors get fouled up over time, and they manifest that problem by frying the switch and melting the connector on the back of it. Anything short of replacing the blower motor, the switch, and the connector body (plus fried contacts) is a waste of time. The blower motor resistor is the only thing that doesn't react to this, generally speaking.

The hoods like to crack. A LOT. Right at the hinges. You'll see it if it's happening. The dealer has a procedure for fixing this. A replacement hood is hella expensive, but if the current hood is about ready to fall off of the truck, it might be the better option.

Some of these suffered from rust from road salt. Slide under there with a creeper. If they painted over everything, call them out on it. Things like the power steering hard lines will actually rust through, so eyeball that stuff carefully.

If you manage to get there early so you can cold start it before they warm it up, that would be great. Sometimes injector problems manifest themselves with a loud cackling when first cold-started. The engine might lope. After a few minutes, it may go away entirely.

I'm sure I'll think of something later, but I've been getting 4 hours of sleep every night this week, so I'm gonna turn in early (at 11pm).

 

[showtimes2]

Is there an adjustment on the parking brake cable of my 2007 model 268? Hydraulic brakes and automatic. Thanks!

 

[greasytshirt]

Is there an adjustment on the parking brake cable of my 2007 model 268? Hydraulic brakes and automatic. Thanks!

I think it's under the truck, at the end of the cable, rear of transmission, at the drum on the end of the trans. This style, available on many trucks, is famous for grenading. Make sure it's not flopping all around before adjusting it.

Sent from my DROIDX using EO Forums mobile app

 

[jeffcarl]

Thanks for taking the time to reply. I have a tentative deal, I have to go see it in person. Will be looking for all of the thinks you mentioned. Really appreciate your help!

 

[greasytshirt]

Thanks for taking the time to reply. I have a tentative deal, I have to go see it in person. Will be looking for all of the thinks you mentioned. Really appreciate your help!

No problem. A few other things, a DX report will show you system protection data.. numbr of overheats, max engine rpm obtained, etc. Get that report. Is this thing on airbags ? They seem to tilt and sway, but that's easily fixed by adding another height control valve, one foreach airbag. Much nicer to drive after that.

 

[jeffcarl]

No problem. A few other things, a DX report will show you system protection data.. numbr of overheats, max engine rpm obtained, etc. Get that report. Is this thing on airbags ? They seem to tilt and sway, but that's easily fixed by adding another height control valve, one foreach airbag. Much nicer to drive after that.

Hello again GS
No air bags, just air brakes. It's at Penske, don't know if they can do the reports you mentioned but I'll ask. Checked the VIN with local dealer & they have no significant claims. They say all campaigns up do date, did a starter in 09, and a couple marker lights. Sounds like a middle of the week truck (not Monday morn or Friday afternoon).

Thanks!!! jeff

 

[greasytshirt]

It's at Penske, don't know if they can do the reports you mentioned but I'll ask.

I've not messed with it, but there's a fleet version of the diagnostic software that sounds reasonably capable, in which case they should be able to give you something.

Glad to be of service!

 

[jeffcarl]

Wanna see a couple pics?

 

[jeffcarl]

Here are the engine photos

 

[jeffcarl]

Here are the frame rails