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According to some of the stories ive heard, no. Lol. They have the directions on hinonet though.

The pto switch is supposed to be attached to an ecu input, then certain parameters selected using the diagnostic software. Any other method is inferior.

So it's a rollback, huh? These get the crap kicked out of them. I'm not really surprised; rollbacks have the best electrical problems ever. Putting a ground strap across the hinge (from the bed to the frame) has solved more than one electrical problem, especially when bed lighting comes into...

That's a hell of a lot of batteries. Unless you're running a ton of other electrical stuff, you only need three.

Correct. Before you spend a dime, there's a simple way to narrow down the fault to the sensor or the harness. Check the resistance of the sensor. Then check the resistance of the other sensor and compare them. If there isn't much of a difference, swap the sensors. If the problem moves to...

Dust off that black box.

The D version has the ECU mounted in the cab, under the fuses. The E version has the ecu mounted directly to the ABS modulator valve.

You have either 'D' or 'E' type ABS from Meritor Wabco. 'D' manual http://www.meritorwabco.com/MeritorWABCO_document/mm39.pdf 'E' manual http://www.meritorwabco.com/MeritorWABCO_document/mm0677.pdf Have fun!

How far away is the liftgate spot? Short cables = less resistance in the circuit. Most of these things just have two batteries, with an extra shoved into the box when a liftgate is added. If you want to retain your liftgate batteries in their current location, you may want to consider having...

Arguably the best way to do it is to salvage the harness by repinning the end with a new connector body. If you have a dealer with a good parts guy, you can order the terminal connector and pins and redo the whole end, but you will need special crimpers to do so. And patience. And reading...

It does sound like the ignition switch is bad. I don't know if that will include the tumbler, but I doubt it. The batteries on these trucks need to be in good condition, as you've witnessed. Since they're gonna be replaced, now is a great time to remove all of the ground cables and grind...

That kinda sounds like an ignition switch problem, but I haven't run into this issue before.

The harness takes a beating right there. People break the securing clips, then it moves and flexes enough to damage the wires inside. Even worse is when the connector lock tab is broken and water gets inside.

I'm going to bed. Have fun.

That's probably part of the tube in question. The end of it has a few bends in it, maybe part of it is missing. Has that been pulled out of the airbox from the outside? If so, you might have a hard time getting it to stop leaking without properly reconnecting it back to...whatever it was...

I can ramble on at length about these things. If you managed to stumble across a book with the wiring diagrams in it, that would be a worthwhile purchase. The engine, cab, and wiring are Japanese, but everything else is American in origin (and most mechanics are familiar with the layout)...

Multi-function. The stalk. You found it already. No one ever calls them multi-function switches. You probably just have some ultra-crappy battery connections. Common issue. Instead of dicking around, yank both batteries out, load test the :censoredsign: out of them, clean everything. If one is...

The drain tube is underneath the air cleaner, under the hood. It has one of those duck bill valves on it. Probably full of junk.

Did it crank but not start, or was it not cranking? You didn't specify. Two widely different troubleshooting paths you'd need to take. The right side multifunction switch controls the exhaust brake. Twist for wipers, pull toward you for hazard lights, bump it up and down for exhaust brake...

I love those spitfires. Another favorite is the Vought F4U Corsair.