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The codes are still saved in the dash. Retrieve them. Post them here with the timestamps. You should rarely.have to manually regenerate. It needs an actual diagnosis. Chances are you will need a set of injectors, a turbo, or a modified itv. Or maybe all three. Is there heavy soot in the...

Hit the drum with a hammer. Hard. With the brakes released. If that doesn't do it, hit the shoes with a long punch and a hammer. You just need them to break free. After you move it, don't set the brake. Chock the tires instead.

What codes did the dealer find? Because otherwise id have to communicate with the truck telepathically.

Hit it with a hammer. Hard.

If it advertises removing water, never. Take the fittings off of the fuel filer housing and the pipe elbows out of the fuel tank and look for debris. Very common.

You're in limp mode. Several things cause limp mode. Since you have a DPF, your truck is an 08 or later, meaning you can pull codes out of the dash. Hold the mode button until a submenu appears. Scroll with the UP toggle until you see SYSTEM CHECK. Press DOWN on the toggle. It may say...

Check to see if the control panel has power and ground.

What year is the truck? What codes is it setting? Any warning lights at all? ABS, Check transmission, check engine?? What is an RGP valve?

What year is the truck? If it's an 08 or later, you can pull codes out of the dash. P0045 or U0073 = dead VNT. With any luck, that big pull just sucked some crud out of the fuel tank, blocked a line, and set a P0087.

Edit: my phone sucks.

It should have a mechanical parking brake. Is that correct? The service brakes on the vacuum over hydraulic trucks don't apply when there isn't vacuum. If it's been sitting, you may have parking brake shoes rusted to the drum.

I'm reminded of Ford in the late nineties with torque converter shudder in most of their sedans. A different atf formulation fixed most of them from the factory. Bad torque converter design fixed with chemistry. And Ford with shudder and stall problems in the DCT in the Focus. Currently...

Do you have a multimeter?

What does it have on the control panel as far as menu options? There should be a way to view alarm codes. Here's a random manual. http://www.rigmasterpower.com/downloads/support-materials/02_Manuals/01_Owners-Manuals/06_RMP-10-4_All-Models/RMP-P10-4_Owners-Manual.pdf

Tobster317 texted this to me. Pretty sad sight.

Crabgrass is still grass.

I figured that was a spammer, but my point still stands. The usb-link 2 can't be used to reprogram pre 2011 Hinos.

I have everything.

You need a computer. Not a code reader that plugs into the 9-pin connector, either. On 2008 trucks you can get codes. In 2011-2017 trucks, you can get codes from the dash that originate from the engine ECU, but none of the other computers (save for the ABS ecu, but IDK what years because I...

Yet, the USB-Link 2 will not connect to Hino's k-line, used on truck built before 2011, so it cannot be used to reflash ECUs. Only the original Nexiq USB-Link, the Denso DST-i, or the Hino Bowie will work (that I know of). I know this because bricking an ecu while a customer is watching is not...