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That amount of crap built up on everything is pretty normal.. If you've got everything still off, unscrew big braided line from the front of the burner. It may be stuck. It may even need to be heated with a torch to free it. Blow out the cavity in the front of the burner with compressed air...

Since you have DX... Warm up engine all the way. Turn off all accessories. In engine diagnostic menu set data monitor for these items in this order. Engine coolant temp, engine speed, injection quantity. I think. First two items might be reversed. Do it twice for me lol. Use activation...

Generally speaking, it's not advised to tough the tip of the nozzle at all, lest one mash carbon into those tiny holes. During regen or Scr warm-up, 40-50 psi at nozzle is good. So you're good there. 750 during Scr warm-up is good. You need a DPF, no doubt. Pull it out and make sure it...

There's an excel macro that we use. If you monitor an event and save it in .txt, I can graph it. You want to graph the following, in order: Engine speed, engine torque, Burner inlet temp, flame temp, burner outlet temp, target burner outlet temp, atomizer air pressure, atomizer fuel pressure...

Those readings are because of a translation error in DXII. DPR outlet temp doesn't matter to the BCU, but it plays a role in fault detection in the engine ecu. There is a sensor. It's not bad. You can ignore this one.

You cannot delete them, especially on the 2011. They can be oven cleaned. They don't go bad by themselves. The root cause needs to be identified.

For both of you with burner faults: go to dealer. Get a flame temp sensor, an atomizer nozzle, and one igniter. Remove right fender. Remove igniters (spark plugs). One will be worn. Replace it. Clean the schmoo off of the other with brake cleaner and rag. Remove flame temp sensor. Take the...

There's a burner fault. See reply above this one.

It does have a BCU, and it has an active code. You have to sort this out first. Possible CAN error. Check connector at bcu and the bulkhead connector box on firewall for moisture and corrosion. Using engine customization menu, change soot amount to 2.2. start engine, connect to bcu, then...

Are you in Australia? Canada? Does it have an inline pump, or common rail? I'm assuming inline. I'd start by checking the ENTIRE low pressure fuel system (the supply side) for debris, obstructions, or air leaks. Adjust the valves. Replace all fuel filters. Check boost sensor hose for leaks...

Too bad it's not an earlier truck. There's a mayflower truck here that was in a rollover and it's getting parted out.

Hey there. The last guy that looked at it, how familiar was he with Hinos? I'm just curious. If I were faced with this problem, I'd start by confirming an rpm signal with DX2, then looking at actual fuel pressure while cranking. If that was ok, then I'd look to see if the injectors were...

It I don't know if the system comes in a complete assembly.

I should have looked at the rest of the thread before replying lol.

They should be very similar. 2011 and up are very different. Tobster317 got a great price on one for his 2007. Shoot him a pm.

Post some pictures. Any wiring harness repair needs to be done very well, or it's going to give you future grief. Most of those sensors are very expensive, so be careful with disassembly. Leave the temp sensors in place if possible.

The exhaust brake adjustment should not be altered.

I just ordered an SCR catalyst for a 2014 Kenworth because the EGR cooler on the Cummins engine leaked antifreeze into the exhaust and poisoned the catalyst. These problems are unfortunately widespread across manufacturers. Trucks nowadays have to be just about running perfectly all the time...

I'd take it back. This code means that there's little change in NOx conversion for the amount of DEF put in. SCR catalyst efficiency may be suffering. And they are going about it the wrong way. The flame temp sensor is used to control combustion in the burner, it has little to do with what...

This should be in the truck talk forum. You can get them out with a giant easy-out, but you will need special tooling to swage them into place with the head still on the truck. It's either got to go to the dealer, the head has to come off, or you need ultra-expensive tools. This is the same...