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It's going to be difficult to diagnose without seeing what the ecu is seeing. You can buy a Russian-hacked copy of DX2 off of eBay for $20. Put it on a Windows 7 laptop. Get a Nexiq Usb-link with a 16 pin DLC connector and you're good to go.

What are the pressures with the compressor on?

Yes, the high pressure pump. It should self-prime. If that doesn't work, loosen the high pressure line between the pump and rail to release air.

Try connecting a source of fuel directly to the fuel pump. Bypass the entire fuel supply system.

Edit: I went out of order. The burner didn't light off, and the DPF is now clogged. Look in the engine customization menu to see how clogged. Somewhere around 8 g/L is safe to regen. Above that will melt the DPF. Look at DPF max outlet temp. If above 1300ish, remove DPF and pin test it...

Unfortunately, bad injectors are the most common root cause of regen issues on Hinos. You might want to shop around on that price.

From my experience, bar graph jumping has only a couple of causes. An airflow issue (bad turbo, clogged intercooler, an unmodified, dirty, or worn-out ITV), temp sensor (or harness connection), or ecu software. There was a recall that included a software update and 95% of the time it works...

It may be the only one that works at all.

I'm gonna punt on this one.

P0088 is high rail pressure. Often the suction control valve (fuel pressure regulator) is the root cause. P0193 is common rail pressure sensor high input. I'd still be looking at the connector as likely faulty. I mean, it could be the sensor, but in six years I think I've replaced one or...

The parts are almost identical. You can put Hino parts on it. Hino injector codes cannot be entered into a UD ecu, but it doesn't really matter. The rail pressure sensor never goes bad. The connector can get loose and cause a bad connection. The connector is available separately. I'd ignore...

Yes, pull the aluminum intake elbow off so you can get to the compressor wheel. Watch the alternator wires, you've had enough fireworks! The temp sensors usually unscrew, but not always. I have a Snap-On 14mm wrench with these little teeth on the inside that get a good bite. Rarely does...

You might have to use heat. They often break and you have to drill them out. It's an odd size thread pitch.

You likely have temp sensor issues or poor airflow. Turbo, intercooler, ITV, etc. Inspect the turbo. If it binds up at all when youre spinning it, it's bad. Be critical.

Turbine speed sensor? If the problem returns, have a new connector body and pins installed.

The head gaskets like to leak oil at the right rear corner of the head, and behind the turbo. Take a good look at that area.

The injectors are now spill tested. Hino DX2 software is needed to do this, along with some apparatus. Since it's out of warranty, I suppose you can do it the old way. Command engine to run at 1500, monitor injection quantity, condemn anything under 7mm3 (approximately), condemn for high rpm...

Yes, Hino has a new, bigger engine out there. Several prototypes have been running around. I'm going to classes for it in a few months.

Which transmission? If 2000 series Allison, fix the abs.

Replace the def injector. Every time the thing sets codes for the injector, you can be sure to see it again. The interval for def filter replacement is something like 100k. Outlet NOx sensor failure is common. Have the fuel injectors evaluated. They cause burner issues. I started a thread...