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What year is this truck? On some of them, water can get into the firewall-mounted junction box and cause havoc. There's also a connector separating the frame harness from the main harness and very occasionally water might get into that one. You may see codes pertaining to one or both of the...

I could see an argument for replacing the steel tanks because those rust pretty badly. Aluminum, no. If an aluminum tank is dirty, I'd just take it off and steam clean it as thoroughly as possible, dry it out, and reinstall it.

Can you post a picture of that device?

A hino-sourced turbo should be identical.

Theoretically there is a timing mark for the pump, but it doesn't affect how it runs . Cubic millimeters per stroke. This is how much the ecu is compensating to make it idle correctly. Since this truck has a dpf and it's having regen issues, you should consider replacing all of the injectors...

Russian hacked Hino software is on eBay. UD software may be, too.

I know that Hino software will not read it. No cheap diagnostic scanners will either, to the best of my knowledge. A UD dealer is your best bet.

I doubt any programming can be done to accomplish what you want.

Screw a wood block to the bottom of the accelerator pedal. Edit: I should have read the whole post.

Hire better drivers.

I missed that completely.

I didn't even think about that. Glad you figured it out.

I think the fan clutch is suspect. This engine does not have wet liners. It has them floating on oil They are not very picky about coolant type, either. If coolants have been mixed, a scum can form that clogs up the radiator. If you suspect a head gasket failure, do a combustion gas test...

What year is the truck? The AC switches are known to burn out, taking out it's connector and wires at the same time. Check both the radio fuse and the room light fuse. Oddly enough, the room light fuse partially powers both the radio and the AC compressor. For a 2008 truck anyway. I'm taking...

You can bolt all of this stuff on yourself, but you'll need software to reset things and clear codes. There's a thread on here about doing burner maintenance. Those prices look realistic and I don't know of other sources besides the dealer.

The most common causes of limp mode, in my experience, are VNT or EGR failure. Other things can cause this, too. Getting the codes out of the computer is essential for diagnosing.

The dpf has nothing to do with the code. If your finger turns black when you stick it in the tailpipe, the dpf is likely damaged. There are ways to protect the DPF when using the PTO extensively, but it'll require wiring stuff to the ECU and a trip to the dealer for some ecu customization...

It has likely scuffed a piston, which would require a rebuild. Leaking injectors and overheating can cause this. Edit: Get a compression test done.

Without knowing which diagnostic codes are being set, this will be difficult to diagnose. The parts are too expensive for me to rattle off a list of things to try.

You have two different problems. For the blower motor, it is very often the switch that has burnt up. The wires going to the switch, and the switch's connector melt. Repair parts are available. Replace the blower motor at the same time, because when they age they start pulling more current...