T300 Mirror Heat Circuit

P51bombay · Feb 17, 2009

Just looking at the mirrors and noticed that while the main mirrors are heated, the spot mirrors under them are not. I was thinking of getting larger 8" spot mirrors and moving the smaller spot mirrors to the top since its nearly impossible to see the upper part of the box. If I were to add heated spots below and/or above the mains I'm a little concerned it may overload the circuit. So the question is, does anyone know what sort of load is on this circuit? and can it handle two or maybe four heated spot mirrors in addition to the already heated mains? Also, where is the interior connection made?

davekc · Feb 17, 2009

Not sure on what the load is for the mirrors? In the past we would use RainX mirror/anti fog. It would last a pretty good while once applied. I think Glasswax has something simular as well. Keeps the ice from forming on them also.
If going electirc, might be better to run a seperate line and a fuse just for those mirrors if you really need them heated.

P51bombay · Feb 17, 2009

davekc said:
Not sure on what the load is for the mirrors? In the past we would use RainX mirror/anti fog. It would last a pretty good while once applied. I think Glasswax has something simular as well. Keeps the ice from forming on them also.
If going electirc, might be better to run a seperate line and a fuse just for those mirrors if you really need them heated.

That's a thought too but here on the WET coast (PacNW) I find they do as much for keeping them dry (relatively) as they do ice free, I suppose rainX would help there too but I'm used to having both heated so at least want to look into that. I could probably do with just the bottom spots heated - the upper ones would be mostly for the tighter docks.

P51bombay · Feb 17, 2009

Did I read that right............there is a product called "RainX Mirror"?

Tempest · Feb 17, 2009

Lol Kinda. It is RainX Anti-Fog and like Dave said it is a great solution for those spot mirrors and usually lasts a while

davekc · Feb 17, 2009

That's it. I knew we weren't the only ones that used it.

P51bombay · Feb 17, 2009

How is that stuff for preventing dirty water spots? That is the one downside to using heat to dry them - well that and M2 (which is doing away) phantom wipers splashing water on them. LOL

davekc · Feb 17, 2009

Since they aren't actually heated, it will bead off. Works well on a bathroom mirror as well. They won't steam up with this stuff.

bluejaybee · Feb 21, 2009

My Peterbilt came from factory with heated mirrors. I just replaced them all and they are all on one 20 amp circuit breaker. KW T300 and Pete 330 are basicically the same. I have one switch that powers all 4 mirrors.

I even ran the wires right back through the bracket arms like the original ones. Through the door and in behind the dash. I can tell you an easy way to do it, if you will PM me.

BTW, I like heated mirrors. Yes, I replaced them because of the spots in the glass, but it is a 2000 model, so what, 9 years they lasted? Each to his own reasoning though.

apollopaul · Feb 22, 2009

Small 8 in mirrors draw 2 amps. The large mirrors draw 3-4 amps. You can connect mirror wiring together inside the door. Besure to use good connectors or solder it up.

BE SAFE

Paul

bluejaybee · Feb 22, 2009

True, you could solder them in the door, but if the wires are long enough (and they should be) you would be better off to take them to the where the old ones are connected in the dash and then you never have to worry about the wet or corroded connection. Unless of course, you keep sloshing coffee down the dash.

P51bombay · Feb 22, 2009

bluejaybee said:
True, you could solder them in the door, but if the wires are long enough (and they should be) you would be better off to take them to the where the old ones are connected in the dash and then you never have to worry about the wet or corroded connection. Unless of course, you keep sloshing coffee down the dash.

Or Dr. Pepper