I have been following synthetic oils since i was in high school, graduated in 1972. Used Klotz in my 2 cycle Yamaha in 1976, at 10.00 a quart back then. Have had five tractors on the road, 1994, 1995, Volvos with the 425 Volvo D12 in them used synthetic in them also. They originally went 12,000 miles on a filter change, and 24,000 on oil change using Rotella, and Volvo extended life oil filters, on those trucks there is three oil filters. On the cube vans, I use bosch filters, 11.00 ea. And go 12,000 miles on the filter change, and at 24,000 Chang the oil and filter, when it starts to use oil, the oil is breaking down, time to change it. The 2007 is the second engine that I used synthetic for the breakin, the first was MY 1995 Volvo, 16,000.00 for the complete in frame overhaul. Engine had 1 Million miles with Rotella, could still see the cross hatch in the liners, in all but the sixth hole, that was the dead hole, piston rings carboned into rings, liner scored badly, could have just replaced just the one liner, but the holes were only 365.00 ea. At the time, new liner, piston, and rings. Back in 1971, they ran an engine on only synthetic oil 100,000 miles, no oil change, just filters, and had documented wear of less than .001 on bearings, and I think .010 on the ring end gap.
If you read the entire post,
The 2007 had less ring end gap than the 2004. And the 2007 ran about 180,000 before switching to synthetic. So I think the end gap wear after changing was nil.at teardown, the 2007 had about 440,000 miles on it. I had replaced the rod and main bearings in both the 2005, and 2007, around 350,000 and plasticgaged the rods and mains at .003 wear. Because of the lifter parts going through the engine, there was no point on plastic gaging the bearings, but there was minimal wear, they actually looked better than the 350,000 with the exception of the metalic grooves from the lifter.
The synthetic oils today are much better than back in 1971.
Now days most manufacturers are putting synthetic oils in the engines they use. Most transmissions and differentials have synthetic in them. They just don't break down. And you usually get better fuel milage. In an older engine with some milage on it, I would use a heavier oil, 15-50, or straight 50 weight. Synthetic will leak where conventional oil won't. Would change by doing oil change with a cheap filter, use diesel fuel to wash, start engine, turn off, and drain diesel fuel, let drain overnight, then change filter to a good high quality filter, and fill with synthetic. Can't do an engine harm. Don't drive vehicle with just diesel fuel in crankcase, just use it to flush. Diesel is a lubricant, and a solvent, but Don't have the viscosity to properly protect an engine.
Any other questions just ask
Have rebuilt auto, manual, transmissions, rear ends, diesel, and gasoline engines, hydraulics, pneumatics, and ladder tree control panels, steel stamping presses, and injection molding machines. Even designed custom controls for industry specific machinery.
Ken
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