Last time I checked, an exhaust brake was like $600 or more. Hopefully you can get the stripped bolts out.
Just bought a 2002 Hino SG
- Thread starter Hino3325
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Sounds about right.
I'm gonna recommend a few products.
Kroil
Aero Kroil Lubricant, Aerosol Can, 13 Fluid Ounces: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
Nickel antiseize in an aerosol can (yes, it's expensive)
Amazon.com: Loctite Anti Seize Compound, Nickel, 12-oz Aerosol: Automotive
You might also want to skip ahead and heat that sucker up with a torch.
Soooo, how's it going?
Hino likes using stainless steel hardware on pretty much every single thing on the exhaust. This is generally a good idea, except for one thing: When a stainless bolt and a stainless nut are used together with nothing between them, they will gall. Galling is almost like when the threads weld together, and when it's twisted, the metal (hopelessly stuck together) smears together instead of breaking free. When this truck was initially put together, many of the bolts and studs were copper plated. This is the 'thing' between the threads I mentioned. It works fairly well, but years later the copper has reacted with road salt and moisture and whatever else, and basically disappears. Stainless steel can also bond itself to cast iron very tightly, which is probably what you're experiencing. If the stainless hardware doesn't immediately break free when you put loosening torque to it, it's time to either heat it up (red hot), impact it a few times then soak with good penetrating oil, or (if possible, or applicable) split or cut the nuts off (ouch!).
Drilling out broken stainless bolts and studs on a Hino is usually very difficult. You're gonna need very sharp drill bits, and turn them very slowly. It takes forever.
If you know a MAC tool guy, MAC is one of the few that will actually warranty a broken or dull drill bit. Snap-On does not.
One drill bit that's particularly good is made by Viking. I forget what name they gave the bits, but they're a high-molybdenum bit, 118 degree, with a split point. The shaft has three reliefs milled in so that they won't slip in a chuck (a feature worth it's weight in gold). Turning these very slowly, using no lubricant, and allowing them to cool frequently has produced the best results I've seen.
If you're still fighting it, post a picture. Maybe someone has an idea you can try.
I had soaked it in the lemon juice baking soda mixture it didn't do much so I sandblasted it, it was caked with rust n got nice and clean. After that went to buddy's place and he has a lot of machining tools and I ended up heating it up, worrying if there's any rubber seals that will melt but ended up removing the 2 bolts on the top part with heat and vice grips and then 4 at the bottom got 3 out but the forth had to drill thru it, but it's all taken apart and no rubber seals.
Gts your rite about stainless bolts and cast it literally welds itself together, that's what I was thinking y would they weld these bolt on until heating it up and it cracked open. Anyways I sandblasted the rest of the parts and painted it and put some graphite at all the moving parts and put it back together so tomorrow I'm gonna reinstall it and hopefully it functions.
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Put antiseize on the threads before you reassemble it.
While I prefer the nickel antiseize, copper works pretty well too. Even regular antiseize (which I don't think works all that well in high heat applications) is better than putting that back together with dry threads.
But that looks pretty good, and I'm sure it'll work fine at this point. Occasionally I'd spray that nickel antiseize on the moving parts so you don't have to fuss with it any more.
Oh, that reminds me of something important. On your dash, there's a knob that turns up the idle, which is for a quicker warmup. It's very important that you turn that knob completely to the low idle position (all the way left) before you drive. It works by pulling up on the accelerator linkage. Two things happen if it's not turned down before driving: The accelerator linkage bends. It also interferes with the throttle valve linkage for the transmission. With this turned up, the transmission does not run at the proper pressure in relation to throttle position, and it will drastically shorten it's lifespan. I think we can all agree; the execution of that feature was pretty crappy.
We've had customers suffer transmission failure because their drivers failed to turn that knob down. The quick solution is to cut the cable. No more quick warmup, but no massive bill for premature transmission failure, either.
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Thx for the info Gts.
I put antisieze on the new bolts and all moving parts and installed it, it's working like its suppose
to
I definitely saved myself some $$$ by taking it apart myself. I also decided to look at the idle knob and how it functions and it is turned all the way down, then I seen the accelerator pedal was little sticky and wouldn't always return all the way up resulting in the exhaust brake switch not always activating, so now I got the pedal off and it is tuff to move up and down by hand, took a bit of effort but igot the pin out cleaned it up and lucky I took ur advise and bought the antisieze and reinstalled it, now it moves up and down freely. This is a truck from Ontario Canada so I guess I'm gonna be seeing some gummed up and rusted parts.
So now I realized both mirror lights don't work and it ain't gonna pass inspection without it working. I checked fuses and bulbs there working, so then I removed the outside black panel below the vent window where the wire goes into the door so I probed tapped some 12v power and light works. So I'm thinking the problem is either inside the door panels because theres a couple panel clips missing or behind the dash. Is there anything I should check before taking the door and passenger side dash apart?
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I've only had the dash apart on an FB, and that was a long time ago.
Generally though, most of the times where I've seen a door accessory problem, the umbilical cord between the cab and door is the culprit. As the doors open and close, the wires inside flex. They'll flex thousands of times but eventually they'll break.
Generally though, most of the times where I've seen a door accessory problem, the umbilical cord between the cab and door is the culprit. As the doors open and close, the wires inside flex. They'll flex thousands of times but eventually they'll break.
I asked the owner of my shop if he'd heard of a 9 speed in a Hino SG. His replay was yes, they did, but it was not popular. The engines made enough torque to make the three extra gears unnecessary, and they weren't coupled with a reasonable rear end ratio. Maybe good pulling mountains, sucked on the interstate.
I'd like to know your opinion on it, though. Does the 9 speed make sense in that truck?
I'd like to know your opinion on it, though. Does the 9 speed make sense in that truck?
Compared to a hino 200hp auto this 9 speed has all kinds of power mind u I haven't driven a 250hp auto or 6speed to really compare but I can already tell by passing other cars and trucks in this thing with a 7-12,000lb load (mostly city driving with lots of hills) that its the extra gears in this 9speed that is making it move. Also I'm getting better fuel mileage because its revving just below 2000rpm while at 65mph on highway compared to 2500rpm @ 60mph in a 200hp with a allison at545. Only down side so far has been that there's a lot of shifting going on. I'm hoping to test drive a 6 speed with the same engine soon and then I can give a better comparison.