I need some information on putting additional batteries in my cargo van. I'd like to install two extra batteries to run an inverter from, and I'd like to know how to keep them charged. I've read some of the posts from people who have done this very thing, but there isn't much detail on how this is done. (Please, no jumper cable comments).
Extra batteries...
- Thread starter mvbn1
- Start date
mvbn1:I have two deep cycle batteries mounted in the rear of the van, on the driver's side, forward of the wheelwell. I used a very flexible #6 welders cable I purchased at a welder supply shop. I taped two lengths of the cable together, side by side with 3M 33+ electrical tape and fastened copper eyelets to each of the ends of this bundle. I marked the pos/neg at each end to avoid later confusion.
With the wire bundle completed, I secured one end directly to the primary battery. I used the ground thru the primary battery rather than ground in the rear so that I would have a good sound connection. I fed this from the battery, down alond the frame to the rear and passed it thru a hole, made with a greenlee punch, into the cargo area I clamped this wire at every available point along the chasis.
The pos side of the bundle it fastened to the input of a continuous duty solenoid (carquest). another cable section runs from the output side of the solenoid to the pos terminal on the deep cycle battery. The neg side of the bundle goes to the neg side of the other deep cycle battery. Then connect the pos/pos and neg/neg of each deep cycle battery. At this point you have three connected batteries that will charge and discharge simultaniously.
In order to open/close the solenoid, attach a connection from an ignition controlled source, such as the electric windows, and you'll effectively, isolate the deep cycles from the primary when the ignition is off. You'll charge while engine running. I've used this method with success on three different vans.
good luck
With the wire bundle completed, I secured one end directly to the primary battery. I used the ground thru the primary battery rather than ground in the rear so that I would have a good sound connection. I fed this from the battery, down alond the frame to the rear and passed it thru a hole, made with a greenlee punch, into the cargo area I clamped this wire at every available point along the chasis.
The pos side of the bundle it fastened to the input of a continuous duty solenoid (carquest). another cable section runs from the output side of the solenoid to the pos terminal on the deep cycle battery. The neg side of the bundle goes to the neg side of the other deep cycle battery. Then connect the pos/pos and neg/neg of each deep cycle battery. At this point you have three connected batteries that will charge and discharge simultaniously.
In order to open/close the solenoid, attach a connection from an ignition controlled source, such as the electric windows, and you'll effectively, isolate the deep cycles from the primary when the ignition is off. You'll charge while engine running. I've used this method with success on three different vans.
good luck
If installing the batteries inside the van, be sure to use deep cycle AIRCRAFT type batteries. They are sealed and will not emit dangerous fumes.
You can also have a welding shop build a below the floor box. I know PJ Body shop in Canton Ohio has fabricated this kind of set up.
You can also have a welding shop build a below the floor box. I know PJ Body shop in Canton Ohio has fabricated this kind of set up.
I knew that contest is what made things so slow since the 1st of the month. 
Anyways, I have 2 walmart deep cycles in the back of my van, I drilled a few holes in the floor for the gases to escape. Never had a problem with them. I use to use a setup like the one mentioned before. However, camping world sells a battery isolator for 44 dollars that works even better. (camping world is nation wide, there is one near Romulus next time your stuck there) It's made for 2 battery banks and up to a 120 amp alternator. Insted of using thick heavy cable that is near imposiable to fuse and may short (not likely, but it could) you run a wire that can handle 120 amps and you can fuse it on both ends with a breaker (that way no matter what, a short won't burn your van down).
The only down side is if you leave your headlights on you can't just flip a switch to jump yourself. For that I left the heavy cable routed under the van (plus I wired the isolator in walmarts parking lot.. better to leave the cable under the van, than in it) if I need a jump I can just hook up both ends of it again.
Anyways, I have 2 walmart deep cycles in the back of my van, I drilled a few holes in the floor for the gases to escape. Never had a problem with them. I use to use a setup like the one mentioned before. However, camping world sells a battery isolator for 44 dollars that works even better. (camping world is nation wide, there is one near Romulus next time your stuck there) It's made for 2 battery banks and up to a 120 amp alternator. Insted of using thick heavy cable that is near imposiable to fuse and may short (not likely, but it could) you run a wire that can handle 120 amps and you can fuse it on both ends with a breaker (that way no matter what, a short won't burn your van down).
The only down side is if you leave your headlights on you can't just flip a switch to jump yourself. For that I left the heavy cable routed under the van (plus I wired the isolator in walmarts parking lot.. better to leave the cable under the van, than in it) if I need a jump I can just hook up both ends of it again.