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Somewhere, someone is reading this and freaking out. Sent from my XT1585 using EO Forums mobile app

1492-1508 is a fairly wide rpm delta. The theoretical maximum allowed is 25 rpm, but if this truck was under warranty I would have recommended their replacement. 17xx degrees is absolutely scorching hot. The ceramic the DPF is made of melts around 1485 or something. 1700 degrees is hot...

And tighten the igniters to 20 lb/ft. I see them under torqued frequently. The gap between igniter tips is supposed to be between 2.5-3.5 mm. Sent from my XT1585 using EO Forums mobile app

That amount of crap built up on everything is pretty normal.. If you've got everything still off, unscrew big braided line from the front of the burner. It may be stuck. It may even need to be heated with a torch to free it. Blow out the cavity in the front of the burner with compressed air...

Since you have DX... Warm up engine all the way. Turn off all accessories. In engine diagnostic menu set data monitor for these items in this order. Engine coolant temp, engine speed, injection quantity. I think. First two items might be reversed. Do it twice for me lol. Use activation...

Generally speaking, it's not advised to tough the tip of the nozzle at all, lest one mash carbon into those tiny holes. During regen or Scr warm-up, 40-50 psi at nozzle is good. So you're good there. 750 during Scr warm-up is good. You need a DPF, no doubt. Pull it out and make sure it...

There's an excel macro that we use. If you monitor an event and save it in .txt, I can graph it. You want to graph the following, in order: Engine speed, engine torque, Burner inlet temp, flame temp, burner outlet temp, target burner outlet temp, atomizer air pressure, atomizer fuel pressure...

Those readings are because of a translation error in DXII. DPR outlet temp doesn't matter to the BCU, but it plays a role in fault detection in the engine ecu. There is a sensor. It's not bad. You can ignore this one.

You cannot delete them, especially on the 2011. They can be oven cleaned. They don't go bad by themselves. The root cause needs to be identified.

For both of you with burner faults: go to dealer. Get a flame temp sensor, an atomizer nozzle, and one igniter. Remove right fender. Remove igniters (spark plugs). One will be worn. Replace it. Clean the schmoo off of the other with brake cleaner and rag. Remove flame temp sensor. Take the...

There's a burner fault. See reply above this one.

It does have a BCU, and it has an active code. You have to sort this out first. Possible CAN error. Check connector at bcu and the bulkhead connector box on firewall for moisture and corrosion. Using engine customization menu, change soot amount to 2.2. start engine, connect to bcu, then...

Are you in Australia? Canada? Does it have an inline pump, or common rail? I'm assuming inline. I'd start by checking the ENTIRE low pressure fuel system (the supply side) for debris, obstructions, or air leaks. Adjust the valves. Replace all fuel filters. Check boost sensor hose for leaks...

Too bad it's not an earlier truck. There's a mayflower truck here that was in a rollover and it's getting parted out.

Hey there. The last guy that looked at it, how familiar was he with Hinos? I'm just curious. If I were faced with this problem, I'd start by confirming an rpm signal with DX2, then looking at actual fuel pressure while cranking. If that was ok, then I'd look to see if the injectors were...

It I don't know if the system comes in a complete assembly.

I should have looked at the rest of the thread before replying lol.

They should be very similar. 2011 and up are very different. Tobster317 got a great price on one for his 2007. Shoot him a pm.

Post some pictures. Any wiring harness repair needs to be done very well, or it's going to give you future grief. Most of those sensors are very expensive, so be careful with disassembly. Leave the temp sensors in place if possible.

The exhaust brake adjustment should not be altered.