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I'm doubting the line, not you. I've seen firsthand what can happen when this pipe splits open, and I stress to everyone to avoid reusing it if at all possible. I know sometimes it's unavoidable, and you'll probably be fine, but I have to stick to my guns on this one.

May his connecting rods stay off of the freeway. Godspeed!

Rocker shaft 43, but do it at 38. Newest bolts that are just now available 35, I think. Cam:. Two different torques per cap. One threads into cast iron, the other aluminum. Into aluminum 16. Into cast Iron 23.

Injector hold down bolts 18 ft/lbs . Injector lines 33ft/lbs. Return pipe 110-115 in/lbs. Blow oil out of hold down bolt holes so they don't hydrolock. Injector wire pigtails 7in/lbs.

I highly recommend replacing that line and bolt. Cheapest insurance available.

Not with that attitude.

You won't see evidence of leakage. It's going to leak on the other side of the cup. Head gasket, injector cups, or a crack in the head are the only avenues for combustion gas to get forced into the cooling system. And the head probably isn't cracked. You can get them out with a giant...

The thermostats do not go bad very often at all. If you have no heat, it is probably from air pockets in the cooling system. The egr coolers don't generally go bad either. Occasionally one will fail after the engine is run extremely low on coolant. You'll want to do a combustion gas test...

Yes, you're looking for a short. Either a component or the harness has a short. The EGR valve is pretty expensive. For the rest of this stuff, i don't know. I don't want to offer a ton of speculation. Yes, they could be related. When troubleshooting this stuff, I have a computer attached...

Both EGR valves are on this same circuit. The white wire at both valves are both power supply from U2 act fuse.

There's a starter fuse in the cab, a starter/glow fusible link in the external fuse box, a starter relay, starter cut relay, and transmission range switch. Id check physical connections on starter and the fuses first. And put it in neutral while holding key to crank. Wiggle the shifter.

Does that clicking stop when you have it in a gear other than neutral or park? Or, with the key on, engine off, do you hear a relay click when you shift from neutral to drive, then neutral again? I'm trying to figure out if both the starter relay and starter cut relay are both responding...

Replacing roll-up doors on Freightliners in my driveway.

The start signal is going to pass through the range position switch if it has an automatic transmission, and through the clutch switch if it's a manual. Which transmission do you have? Also, do you hear a relay clicking in the fuse panel when you turn the key to start?

Hi again. I'm much better versed in Hino than Isuzu, but they have some similar traits. It sounds like it was overfilled with oil at the service center. How much, no one knows. On Hinos, the amount of soot in the DPF is determined by a calculation, not by constant reading of differential...

One of the fundamental rules of troubleshooting is to listen to everyone's input...then promptly ignore it. I would have to do my own diagnosis. Another fundamental rule is that 80% of the problems are caused by 20% of the system. So I'd look at tires. I'd take two steers off, replace them...

This reminds me of the time I got a tire to seat on a rim using KY Jelly.

Your OIC is great. Valve lash is supposed to be done every 50k, but this seems to be much less critical on trucks without DPFs.

At this point, I'd love to see the scv test results post-repair. If it runs normal and doesn't blow black smoke, I wouldn't worry too much more about it. Just keep changing the fuel filters, and do a valve adjustment occasionally.

It's got an expansion valve. It's about half an hour into the dash. Remove blower motor and it's box for room. You will see two aluminum pipes turn into the heater box. Remove this cover and you'll see the txv. It's a fair pain in the ass to get to, and you always make a mess flushing the...