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Generally they're replaced when the rubber part collapses, and that time frame is highly variable.

Hino has about 11-12% of the market. Not enough demand. If horsepower is that much of a concern, sell it and buy something that's already making the power you want. Sent from my XT1585 using EO Forums mobile app

Don't ask questions on my wall. I won't answer them.

This should work. You want one with the squeeze bulb on top. Amazon.com: UVIEW 560000 Combustion Leak Tester: Automotive The burner systems on 11-14 Hinos are a little sensitive. In 2015 they changed the DPF heating system and reliability went way up. The burner trucks can be reliable but...

All of that idling is going to eventually wreck the DPF. With that aside, I suppose I'd start looking at the usual suspects, just to rule them out. That includes doing a cooling system combustion gas test. Gas pockets in the cooling system can disrupt coolant flow. Sent from my XT1585 using...

I know that price is very important, but at this price point you are playing Russian roulette. It's hard to lump make and model into good and bad categories down at this level because everything at this level is either ancient, has a billion miles on it, or has had the tar beaten out of it. Or...

It's generally recommended that all of them are replaced at the same time.

I think you made a good choice by skipping this one. Now find one with a Cummins.

Sorry, I was busy all weekend working on the race car. Have you tried to drive it? Does it behave?

I'd widen your search. Decide what you want first, then go out and find it.

How bad would it hurt you to tie up $10k+ with no guarantee of a usable truck?

The rubber part is supposed to be fairly flexible. There shouldn't be any movement in the bearing itself. Sent from my XT1585 using EO Forums mobile app

Here's a really good video that discusses driveline angularity and phasing. It's clear that when the driveshaft is not set up correctly, damaging forces are always present when the truck is moving.

Exactly. That's the same thing that happened on this truck. It was towed and when the shaft went back in, it went in at random. The ones with the master spline have the one spline filled with plastic, and if you try really hard you can force them together. Getting them back apart requires...

Including the people tasked to reinstall them. The two pieces of yellow tape are on the u-joints, and are supposed to line up. They're almost 90 degrees off, so the piece of tape on the right of the pic is nearly impossible to see. So, what's the big deal? U-joints let things run at...

What was the final cost? Sent from my XT1585 using EO Forums mobile app