How big of an A/C do I need?

billg27

Veteran Expediter
Owner/Operator
Looking at installing one of those stand up room a/c this weekend. I'm finding 8,000 or 12,000 btu units. My c/v is only partly insulated. I have a curtain between the cab and cargo area and one of those grey plastic wall and ceiling liners and the factory insulated floor mats below my wood floor. Which size do I need for the upcoming heat?? The 8,000 is a lot smaller in physical size and would be easier to deal with, but I want the unit that will keep me cool when sitting in Laredo in August. Thanks.
 

billg27

Veteran Expediter
Owner/Operator
I'm using a Honeywell 2,000 watt inverter generator. It will do 2,000 watts continuous with a 2,600 watt surge rating.
 

21cExp

Veteran Expediter
In the For What It's Worth department, I talked with a guy last night here in Jackson MS (88 degrees yesterday, I think) who is using the 12,000 vented standup unit in a partly insulated small box van (Reflectix only on walls, insulation board in the ceiling, wood floor, and curtained off cab area) and it's not keeping up. He's not real happy with it and considers the problem to be the need for better insulation.
 
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danthewolf00

Veteran Expediter
Yea but you need a roof vent to get the heat build up in the van out as well. My ac blows over my bunk and I use thermel curtains to block off a lot of the back as well as the front. Front windshield has thermel heat shield then the cheap trucker window covers, then just behind the seats are the thermel curtains....guess I need to do photos
 

skyraider

Veteran Expediter
US Navy
Heat infiltration is the killer in vans. You must block it. I used the thin sheets of insulation from lowes. 4x8, sides and roof and rear door. If u sit in the open sun, which is 99 pct of the time,get the largest unit you can afford. IMHO, get a roof top unit, 15k or above, u will need it in Laredo. Spend the 500 or 600 bucks for it, (( it is worth it)). If u try to get by cheap, u will be disappointed.

PS, block off the front cabin area period. If you want to, go by a RV center and see the install department for rooftop units, they can recommend what you need, its an education there.
 

billg27

Veteran Expediter
Owner/Operator
It's not a money issue, I just don't want the roof top on a cv. I'll get one when I get my new Ford. Also the roof tops seem to need a 3,000 watt gen.
 

asjssl

Veteran Expediter
Fleet Owner
An issue to remember with the roof top a/c is that on most toll roads it bumps you up to the next toll class = more $$..found this out when I had 1 on my c/v..

Sent from my DROID RAZR using EO Forums mobile app
 

xiggi

Veteran Expediter
Owner/Operator
It's not a money issue, I just don't want the roof top on a cv. I'll get one when I get my new Ford. Also the roof tops seem to need a 3,000 watt gen.

A 2000 will Coleman power saver rooftop unit 13500 btu. Installing a hard start capacitor on the ac unit will make a big difference from what i read.

Just bought a 12500 rooftop yesterday installing tomorrow im insulated well and use curtains.

Sent from my Fisher Price ABC-123.
 

guido4475

Not a Member
Heat infiltration is the killer in vans. You must block it. I used the thin sheets of insulation from lowes. 4x8, sides and roof and rear door. If u sit in the open sun, which is 99 pct of the time,get the largest unit you can afford. IMHO, get a roof top unit, 15k or above, u will need it in Laredo. Spend the 500 or 600 bucks for it, (( it is worth it)). If u try to get by cheap, u will be disappointed.

PS, block off the front cabin area period. If you want to, go by a RV center and see the install department for rooftop units, they can recommend what you need, its an education there.


Finally! Someone said it!!!! Thank you, Skyraider, for saying it so correctly!!! So many think that Reflectix is insulation, when all it is is a vapor barrier to be put over insulation.Don't skimp on insulation.I used the Owens Corning pink foam board insulation, it works well for me. Get the thickest you can get, not forgetting to add the thickness for the reflectix and the final covering....unless youre into the foil covered potato look on the inside of youre van...lol..

Don't try to get away with the smallest btu a/c unit, you'll regret it in the long run.....I bought a Heng's industries (They make the units for Dometic) out of Elkhart, Ind, and love it.Although it is 14 inches in height outside, it is awesome, and works real well in any temperature and humidity.It is a 15k btu unit with a remote....It will freeze you out of youre van, guaranteed. I got mine for $550.00, not including installation. I got it from Trina over at RV surplus in Elkhart. Cuz got the same one, and he loves his as well. We have not noticed any drop in fuel mileage of handling because of it's size as well.It also has a hard start capacitor which means it will not kill the generator or make it jump upon when the compressor kicks in.

I know things are tough for so many, financially. But if there is any way you can go biggest with an adequate generator than by all means do it.I have a Cummins/Onan generator 3200 watt and it works good with it.
 

westmicher

Veteran Expediter
I have a 13,500 BTU rooftop and a 3200 watt generator and an 800 watt microwave. Between the microwave and the air conditioner, that's all the 3200 watt generator will power. In Laredo, I need ALL 13,500 BTUs to keep cool, even in an insulated Splinter!
 

guido4475

Not a Member
A 2000 will Coleman power saver rooftop unit 13500 btu. Installing a hard start capacitor on the ac unit will make a big difference from what i read.

Just bought a 12500 rooftop yesterday installing tomorrow im insulated well and use curtains.

Sent from my Fisher Price ABC-123.

I heard you are going to the same place that Howard, a like 75 year old fleet owner out here, goes to get his Sprinters worked on for this kind of stuff. They do real good work, from what I have seen. So glad you are doing things right from the beginning. You deserve it.See of they can do some kind of shore power for a campground hookup. You'll love it when you want to go to the campground in Laredo for 15 bucks a day.I have a 30 amp plug on my generator that I use so as to where I just unplug the 30 amp plug from the generator, and plug it into my 30 amp extension cord, and then into the campground pole.
 

guido4475

Not a Member
I have a 13,500 BTU rooftop and a 3200 watt generator and an 800 watt microwave. Between the microwave and the air conditioner, that's all the 3200 watt generator will power. In Laredo, I need ALL 13,500 BTUs to keep cool, even in an insulated Splinter!

Just to be on the safe side I shut the a/c off when using the nuker. I only use it to heat and cook food for a matter of like 3-4 minutes anyway.I have a friend who has a 13,500 btu unit and says it is not enough in the heat and humidity of lousianna and miss.He told me to go with the 15k, which I did. Never been down there when I needed it, but I'm sure it will work fine.
 

xiggi

Veteran Expediter
Owner/Operator
I heard you are going to the same place that Howard, a like 75 year old fleet owner out here, goes to get his Sprinters worked on for this kind of stuff. They do real good work, from what I have seen. So glad you are doing things right from the beginning. You deserve it.See of they can do some kind of shore power for a campground hookup. You'll love it when you want to go to the campground in Laredo for 15 bucks a day.I have a 30 amp plug on my generator that I use so as to where I just unplug the 30 amp plug from the generator, and plug it into my 30 amp extension cord, and then into the campground pole.

Their labor rate is cheap compared to rv places.

Sent from my Fisher Price ABC-123.
 

21cExp

Veteran Expediter
There's a campground in Laredo for $15 a day?!?! Any trees around it?

Yep, a nice one, trees and a lake. Do a search here in the forums for Lake Casa Blanca State Park and look it up on your gps or atlas. Much nicer than the blacktop parking lots of the truck stops, usually breezier too.
 

21cExp

Veteran Expediter
Finally! Someone said it!!!! Thank you, Skyraider, for saying it so correctly!!! So many think that Reflectix is insulation, when all it is is a vapor barrier to be put over insulation.

Actually, Reflectix works best, as indicated right on the pkg, when a dead air space is provided. To either, preferably both, sides. When applied directly to the inside surface of the truck wall or ceiling it can actually work more as a conductive surface than a reflective surface, which is what it is designed to do, reflect. It's in combination with an effectively sealed dead air space that it has any real R value. Subject for another thread really, though.
 

guido4475

Not a Member
All I know is that now since I painted my roof white and insulated with 1 inch thick foam insulation with reflectix on it and then the luan my inside is cool as a cucumber to the touch on the hottest of days.same with the side walls....now the exposed e-track on the side walls, now thats a different story...lol...and in the winter...when my butt hits the e-track while sleeping....instant jumping out of bed!....
 
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