Photos not uploading for some reason but here is chunk 1
chunk 2 and hopefully photos Monday.
Enjoy
Bob Wolf.
O.K. First lets get the legal and the basics out of the way … Yeah its wordy.
1. Plain English warning.
By doing this repair you assume any and all risk involved during and as a result of taking on this project. If you screw up, do something stupid something goes wrong and you damage your or anyone else’s property, or injure or kill yourself or anyone else this includes every one and everything around you. If you have less than desirable results or the finished job doesn’t work at all or results in additional mechanical problems even if you follow all the directions to the letter it is on you. One more thing it is your responsibility to check with the dealership to make sure the procedures, specs, and part numbers are correct as some variation dose exist between model years.
2. Use of brand name.
I am not marketing or endorsing any specific product or vendor nor am I receiving payment for the mention of their product. However some components are only available through specific companies or, I have found to have best results with or simply known better by their retail product name for example WD40 is more to the point than silicone spray.
Key Words.
PAY ATTENTION this means if you don’t pay attention you can be injured killed or destroy an expensive part.
IMPORTANT I will often use this if some detail needs to be paid attention to If you don’t you will at least waste time energy and money redoing the job as it wont work right and possibly damage something.
The rest of the repair I expect you to have and use common sense.
Positions are given proper as if sitting behind the wheel. So right side is passenger left side driver front and rear should be self explanatory.
T.D.C. Top Dead Center the highest the piston will travel in the cylinder bore. There are 2 TDC compression both valves closed compression stroke, and exhaust intake closed and exhaust open I will leave TDC as is to keep things simple.
THE PROCEEDURES ARE ASSUMING THE ENGINE IS STOCK, RUNNING #2 HIGHWAY DIESEL OR ULTRA LOW SULFER DIESEL AND NO AFTERMARKET POWER ADDERS.
If you are unsure about your experience or skill level take it to a shop. If you do hire a shop to make the repair this should help you understand why it takes 6 to 8 hours to do a injector change and run the head.
O.K. lets get to work.
Bad injector/s. Rarely do they all fail at once usually one or two at a time lack of power, blue, black or white, smoke, poor mileage, rich smelling exhaust that smells like unburned diesel fuel, hard starting, especially If you find yourself having to plug in the block heater just to get it to start even on warm days.
Diagnosing injectors. OK probably the best way to diagnose injectors is a contribution test engines with HEUI type injectors need to be plugged in to a tool for this test. How to do a field test? Simple.
1. Find out what the exhaust manifold temp range for your engine should be. on a cold day preferably or at least first thing in the morning leaving the truck unplugged use an infra red thermometer and take temp readings along the exhaust manifold. Read each cylinder port and write it down. Start the truck and let the engine warm up for 15min. to ½ hr. Check the temps at each exhaust port every 5 or so minutes write the time and temps down so you can create a trend. The cylinders that read colder or hotter than the rest are likely bad.
Now, if the hot cylinder is in range that may be the only good injector. That is why you want to know the exhaust manifold temp range. Usually cold no fuel hot over fueling.
2. Test the electrical circuit lat the injector harness at the valve cover. Use an ohm meter and test through the harness to test the internal wire harness, and each injector connector and injector solenoid. This will help narrow down a potential problem in the engine or chassis wire harness you have four pins right and left. Bottom right and bottom left are ground. Left set of pins cover 1,2,3, right set of pins cover 4,5,6 If memory serves me correctly # 1 and #4 are the ones next to ground. If you don’t zero out on any injector the problem is likely an injector coil, bad harness, oil flooded connector or disconnected injector either way you are pulling the valve cover / intake manifold.
Now, if the injectors and harness all zero out you are chasing the main wire harness and connectors the issue is in the main harness a sensor, part or possibly the ECM.
Trust me if you have the tools, preferably a clean dry place to pull the cab into, most importantly if you can follow directions and pay attention to details you can do it yourself. However, if you’re not sure its best to take it to a shop.
You will need.. a socket set, screwdrivers, scrapers, a pry bar set, drop light, a small hand pump and small diameter tubing 1/8 inch O.D., multi meter tester comes in handy. Brake cleaner, lacquer thinner, Diesel injector cleaner, engine degreaser, soft cleaning brushes, a roll of Scott brand blue shop towels are recommended 3M blue scratch free scotch Brites, Metal coffee cans, at least 2 55 gallon drum liners, news print, A work bench helps allot, safe place to keep new injectors, your cores, the ECM, and valve cover gasket.
Important. FIRE EXTINGQUISHER an INCH POUND torque wrench AND FOOT POUND torque wrench bar / beam, dial, or micrometer / clicker its your preference they all serve the same purpose. Injectors and valve components are torque specific. blue scratch free Scotch Brites,
From my understanding D.T. / HT and Cat medium duty engines are similar newer 2004 and newer HT 530 engines the displacement was upped to 570 cubic inches and now have 4 valves per cylinder so check on the process. The 466E in my truck dose not have a Jake Brake If you have one check with a dealership.
I recommend a thorough engine cleaning before starting this repair.
Remember your 7 P’s Proper Prior Planning or Prep-work Prevents **** Poor Performance.
New vs. Reman.
Renew Reman injectors from the IH dealership $350.00, new at least 500.00, $200.00 core min 3 weeks before I get core charge back IF the cores pass Internationals inspection and only a one year warrantee…..
OR, remanufactured $225.00, $100.00 core, I give them cores in reasonable shape, I get my core charge back as long as the tips aren’t damaged and they are in reasonable shape, same one year warrantee and the vendor has a an excellent reputation. So, off the top, you save 600.00. Aliant is the manufacturer of HEUI injectors for CAT and IH most likely everyone else out there. The only difference between Aliant and OEM is the box.
Injector replacement
1. Disconnect batteries I recommend both hot and neutral.
2. Disconnect the Engine position /cam sensor front right just above the crank pulley, and alternator, turbo and air cleaner and coolant temp sensor in the head all were right side of engine. This harness is also attached to the map sensor should be in the valve cover, A/C compressor, top of engine. On the left side of the engine, oil ICP sensor on the fuel rail, HPOP sensor on the back of the High pressure pump, engine oil pressure in the block, and air pressure sensor.
Follow the harness and check for other sensors that might be on your truck. note or photograph the correct wire locations most leads will differ in size but just to cover your self and you don’t risk damaging the wire assembly, frying the sensors and/ or ECM or burning your truck to the ground. Disconnect the fuel injector wiring harness on the valve cover. When you get done you should be able to lay the entire wire harness off to the side of the engine bay out of the way. If needed disconnect and remove the ECM
Important..
Some engines the ECM is bolted to the valve cover mine was bolted to the block out of the way. If its on the cover carefully remove the ECM. The wire harness is bolted into the ECM connector so you might have a cover to remove to get to the bolt. Remember to use a light hand with the ECM and put in in a safe place, if you have access to pink antistatic bubble wrap even better. Protect your ECM that is a screw up that will cost you at least a $4,000.00.
3. Remove the doghouse/rear engine cover to gain access to the rear of the engine you will have to remove the jump seat and shift controller if you run an Allison and yes you realy do have that much change under your seat possibly enough for coffee.
4. Disconnect the fuel and oil feed line from the fuel rail you don’t have to remove the drain plugs especially if they aren’t leaking and are in tight. I never saw much difference between pulling the plugs and just the lines. You might have a little less fuel if you pull the fuel regulator off the back of the fuel rail. Ether way you will have to pump fuel out of the cylinders. Disconnect the fuel line at the fuel filter. If you have a quick connect replace the O ring. By the way, if the fuel rail gasket is leaking now is the time to replace it. Remove the plumbing for the turbo both sides, and the snorkel for the air system from the air cleaner place it aside. Remove the air cleaner and anything else in the way another thing to check is your turbo should be clean, dry and very little play.
5. Squeeze the tabs on the pass through connector on the valve cover and push the connector into the valve cover. Otherwise you will destroy the internal injector wire harness. If it doesn’t completely enter the valve cover don’t force it as long as its loose it will fall clear when you lift the valve cover.
If you have all the plumbing and electrical out of the way we can begin surgery.
6. Loosen the valve cover and leave the bolts in the cover until you can place them through a piece of cardboard to make sure they go back where they belong. You will notice at least a couple are different lengths and or hold a bracket. Work from the center out first crack them loose and then after cracking them all loose work them out. The valve cover doubles as the intake manifold and it is heavy and awkward so have a helper inside the truck and pass it to them. Be careful so you don’t drop it on the injectors or the valve train. Remember the 55 gallon liners? Place it on the liner with some newsprint and wrap it up to soak up oil and keep crud out of the cover.
PAY ATTENTION Now is the time to carefully remove the valve cover gasket its reusable but make sure its clean and in good shape. Any crud, wear, or damage oil will run into the intake valves you will burn oil, have performance issues, and can result in an engine runaway that will kill the engine. After cleaning place it aside.
You should now have the injectors and the upper valve train staring at you. (Feeling paranoid?)
7. Injectors have two bolts unbolt the front bolt and rear alternating back and forth every few half turns until out
PAY ATTENTION DO NOT DROP THE BOLTS INTO THE MOTOR IF THEY FALL INTO THE AIR TUBES YOU WILL BE PULLING THE HEAD. Also do not loose them as they are dealer only items. Check them to make sure they aren’t necked (stretching) out .
8. Using the dealer only special injector puller shown, (yep it’s a small pry bar from harbor freight) apply firm steady pressure but, not too heavy handed under the injector hold down bracket have a hand over the top of the injector to catch is as it pops out.
When it comes up, quickly remove the injector and put it into a catch can drain the fuel and oil into it. The less oil and fuel in the cylinder from the injector the better. Besides you don’t want to contaminate the oil if you can avoid it.
9. PAY ATTENTION Inspect the injectors to make sure they have the combustion seal ether copper or stainless steel also make sure they are not missing the tips If you have damaged tips find someone with a bore scope and make sure the tip or pieces are not in the combustion chamber trapped in the piston or between the piston and cylinder wall. If this is so, you are probably looking at an inframe. Sorry….. If luck is on your side and the tip snapped off during removal, (yes this dose happen) and is lying on the piston you will need the injector cup or the head pulled. Free warning most important part is you stop and deal with it. If you brush it off you will destroy your engine, enough said.
10. Most International engines the head is flat and the combustion chamber is in the piston crown. So you basically have a bowl of fuel and oil to remove. manually turn each cylinder to T.D.C.
PAY ATTENTION Use a small hand pump and small diameter tubing about 1/8 inch O.D. I used some extra plastic fish tank airline tubing to remove the oil/fuel otherwise, you will lock the head and possibly destroy the engine. pass tubing into cylinder through the injector cup bottom hole for the tip get as mush as you can out of the cylinder.
11. Inspect the injector this will also give you an idea of the general health of the engine. Similar to the tale spark plugs tell you. A washed injector tip you might have a leaking head gasket cracked or broken lack of fuel or dry starting after running out of fuel or changing the filter.
12. Clean the injector tubes with a soft bristle brush I also used lacquer thinner and a scratch free Blue Scotch Brite they’re tough enough to clean the residue off the cups but wont scratch the injector cups. Cut off a section 1 inch by 1 inch and carefully work it in the cup with a screw driver the cup must be as clean as possible so you get a good seal. Wipe out the cup with a lint free rag soaked in lacquer thinner.
chunk 2 and hopefully photos Monday.
Enjoy
Bob Wolf.
O.K. First lets get the legal and the basics out of the way … Yeah its wordy.
1. Plain English warning.
By doing this repair you assume any and all risk involved during and as a result of taking on this project. If you screw up, do something stupid something goes wrong and you damage your or anyone else’s property, or injure or kill yourself or anyone else this includes every one and everything around you. If you have less than desirable results or the finished job doesn’t work at all or results in additional mechanical problems even if you follow all the directions to the letter it is on you. One more thing it is your responsibility to check with the dealership to make sure the procedures, specs, and part numbers are correct as some variation dose exist between model years.
2. Use of brand name.
I am not marketing or endorsing any specific product or vendor nor am I receiving payment for the mention of their product. However some components are only available through specific companies or, I have found to have best results with or simply known better by their retail product name for example WD40 is more to the point than silicone spray.
Key Words.
PAY ATTENTION this means if you don’t pay attention you can be injured killed or destroy an expensive part.
IMPORTANT I will often use this if some detail needs to be paid attention to If you don’t you will at least waste time energy and money redoing the job as it wont work right and possibly damage something.
The rest of the repair I expect you to have and use common sense.
Positions are given proper as if sitting behind the wheel. So right side is passenger left side driver front and rear should be self explanatory.
T.D.C. Top Dead Center the highest the piston will travel in the cylinder bore. There are 2 TDC compression both valves closed compression stroke, and exhaust intake closed and exhaust open I will leave TDC as is to keep things simple.
THE PROCEEDURES ARE ASSUMING THE ENGINE IS STOCK, RUNNING #2 HIGHWAY DIESEL OR ULTRA LOW SULFER DIESEL AND NO AFTERMARKET POWER ADDERS.
If you are unsure about your experience or skill level take it to a shop. If you do hire a shop to make the repair this should help you understand why it takes 6 to 8 hours to do a injector change and run the head.
O.K. lets get to work.
Bad injector/s. Rarely do they all fail at once usually one or two at a time lack of power, blue, black or white, smoke, poor mileage, rich smelling exhaust that smells like unburned diesel fuel, hard starting, especially If you find yourself having to plug in the block heater just to get it to start even on warm days.
Diagnosing injectors. OK probably the best way to diagnose injectors is a contribution test engines with HEUI type injectors need to be plugged in to a tool for this test. How to do a field test? Simple.
1. Find out what the exhaust manifold temp range for your engine should be. on a cold day preferably or at least first thing in the morning leaving the truck unplugged use an infra red thermometer and take temp readings along the exhaust manifold. Read each cylinder port and write it down. Start the truck and let the engine warm up for 15min. to ½ hr. Check the temps at each exhaust port every 5 or so minutes write the time and temps down so you can create a trend. The cylinders that read colder or hotter than the rest are likely bad.
Now, if the hot cylinder is in range that may be the only good injector. That is why you want to know the exhaust manifold temp range. Usually cold no fuel hot over fueling.
2. Test the electrical circuit lat the injector harness at the valve cover. Use an ohm meter and test through the harness to test the internal wire harness, and each injector connector and injector solenoid. This will help narrow down a potential problem in the engine or chassis wire harness you have four pins right and left. Bottom right and bottom left are ground. Left set of pins cover 1,2,3, right set of pins cover 4,5,6 If memory serves me correctly # 1 and #4 are the ones next to ground. If you don’t zero out on any injector the problem is likely an injector coil, bad harness, oil flooded connector or disconnected injector either way you are pulling the valve cover / intake manifold.
Now, if the injectors and harness all zero out you are chasing the main wire harness and connectors the issue is in the main harness a sensor, part or possibly the ECM.
Trust me if you have the tools, preferably a clean dry place to pull the cab into, most importantly if you can follow directions and pay attention to details you can do it yourself. However, if you’re not sure its best to take it to a shop.
You will need.. a socket set, screwdrivers, scrapers, a pry bar set, drop light, a small hand pump and small diameter tubing 1/8 inch O.D., multi meter tester comes in handy. Brake cleaner, lacquer thinner, Diesel injector cleaner, engine degreaser, soft cleaning brushes, a roll of Scott brand blue shop towels are recommended 3M blue scratch free scotch Brites, Metal coffee cans, at least 2 55 gallon drum liners, news print, A work bench helps allot, safe place to keep new injectors, your cores, the ECM, and valve cover gasket.
Important. FIRE EXTINGQUISHER an INCH POUND torque wrench AND FOOT POUND torque wrench bar / beam, dial, or micrometer / clicker its your preference they all serve the same purpose. Injectors and valve components are torque specific. blue scratch free Scotch Brites,
From my understanding D.T. / HT and Cat medium duty engines are similar newer 2004 and newer HT 530 engines the displacement was upped to 570 cubic inches and now have 4 valves per cylinder so check on the process. The 466E in my truck dose not have a Jake Brake If you have one check with a dealership.
I recommend a thorough engine cleaning before starting this repair.
Remember your 7 P’s Proper Prior Planning or Prep-work Prevents **** Poor Performance.
New vs. Reman.
Renew Reman injectors from the IH dealership $350.00, new at least 500.00, $200.00 core min 3 weeks before I get core charge back IF the cores pass Internationals inspection and only a one year warrantee…..
OR, remanufactured $225.00, $100.00 core, I give them cores in reasonable shape, I get my core charge back as long as the tips aren’t damaged and they are in reasonable shape, same one year warrantee and the vendor has a an excellent reputation. So, off the top, you save 600.00. Aliant is the manufacturer of HEUI injectors for CAT and IH most likely everyone else out there. The only difference between Aliant and OEM is the box.
Injector replacement
1. Disconnect batteries I recommend both hot and neutral.
2. Disconnect the Engine position /cam sensor front right just above the crank pulley, and alternator, turbo and air cleaner and coolant temp sensor in the head all were right side of engine. This harness is also attached to the map sensor should be in the valve cover, A/C compressor, top of engine. On the left side of the engine, oil ICP sensor on the fuel rail, HPOP sensor on the back of the High pressure pump, engine oil pressure in the block, and air pressure sensor.
Follow the harness and check for other sensors that might be on your truck. note or photograph the correct wire locations most leads will differ in size but just to cover your self and you don’t risk damaging the wire assembly, frying the sensors and/ or ECM or burning your truck to the ground. Disconnect the fuel injector wiring harness on the valve cover. When you get done you should be able to lay the entire wire harness off to the side of the engine bay out of the way. If needed disconnect and remove the ECM
Important..
Some engines the ECM is bolted to the valve cover mine was bolted to the block out of the way. If its on the cover carefully remove the ECM. The wire harness is bolted into the ECM connector so you might have a cover to remove to get to the bolt. Remember to use a light hand with the ECM and put in in a safe place, if you have access to pink antistatic bubble wrap even better. Protect your ECM that is a screw up that will cost you at least a $4,000.00.
3. Remove the doghouse/rear engine cover to gain access to the rear of the engine you will have to remove the jump seat and shift controller if you run an Allison and yes you realy do have that much change under your seat possibly enough for coffee.
4. Disconnect the fuel and oil feed line from the fuel rail you don’t have to remove the drain plugs especially if they aren’t leaking and are in tight. I never saw much difference between pulling the plugs and just the lines. You might have a little less fuel if you pull the fuel regulator off the back of the fuel rail. Ether way you will have to pump fuel out of the cylinders. Disconnect the fuel line at the fuel filter. If you have a quick connect replace the O ring. By the way, if the fuel rail gasket is leaking now is the time to replace it. Remove the plumbing for the turbo both sides, and the snorkel for the air system from the air cleaner place it aside. Remove the air cleaner and anything else in the way another thing to check is your turbo should be clean, dry and very little play.
5. Squeeze the tabs on the pass through connector on the valve cover and push the connector into the valve cover. Otherwise you will destroy the internal injector wire harness. If it doesn’t completely enter the valve cover don’t force it as long as its loose it will fall clear when you lift the valve cover.
If you have all the plumbing and electrical out of the way we can begin surgery.
6. Loosen the valve cover and leave the bolts in the cover until you can place them through a piece of cardboard to make sure they go back where they belong. You will notice at least a couple are different lengths and or hold a bracket. Work from the center out first crack them loose and then after cracking them all loose work them out. The valve cover doubles as the intake manifold and it is heavy and awkward so have a helper inside the truck and pass it to them. Be careful so you don’t drop it on the injectors or the valve train. Remember the 55 gallon liners? Place it on the liner with some newsprint and wrap it up to soak up oil and keep crud out of the cover.
PAY ATTENTION Now is the time to carefully remove the valve cover gasket its reusable but make sure its clean and in good shape. Any crud, wear, or damage oil will run into the intake valves you will burn oil, have performance issues, and can result in an engine runaway that will kill the engine. After cleaning place it aside.
You should now have the injectors and the upper valve train staring at you. (Feeling paranoid?)
7. Injectors have two bolts unbolt the front bolt and rear alternating back and forth every few half turns until out
PAY ATTENTION DO NOT DROP THE BOLTS INTO THE MOTOR IF THEY FALL INTO THE AIR TUBES YOU WILL BE PULLING THE HEAD. Also do not loose them as they are dealer only items. Check them to make sure they aren’t necked (stretching) out .
8. Using the dealer only special injector puller shown, (yep it’s a small pry bar from harbor freight) apply firm steady pressure but, not too heavy handed under the injector hold down bracket have a hand over the top of the injector to catch is as it pops out.
When it comes up, quickly remove the injector and put it into a catch can drain the fuel and oil into it. The less oil and fuel in the cylinder from the injector the better. Besides you don’t want to contaminate the oil if you can avoid it.
9. PAY ATTENTION Inspect the injectors to make sure they have the combustion seal ether copper or stainless steel also make sure they are not missing the tips If you have damaged tips find someone with a bore scope and make sure the tip or pieces are not in the combustion chamber trapped in the piston or between the piston and cylinder wall. If this is so, you are probably looking at an inframe. Sorry….. If luck is on your side and the tip snapped off during removal, (yes this dose happen) and is lying on the piston you will need the injector cup or the head pulled. Free warning most important part is you stop and deal with it. If you brush it off you will destroy your engine, enough said.
10. Most International engines the head is flat and the combustion chamber is in the piston crown. So you basically have a bowl of fuel and oil to remove. manually turn each cylinder to T.D.C.
PAY ATTENTION Use a small hand pump and small diameter tubing about 1/8 inch O.D. I used some extra plastic fish tank airline tubing to remove the oil/fuel otherwise, you will lock the head and possibly destroy the engine. pass tubing into cylinder through the injector cup bottom hole for the tip get as mush as you can out of the cylinder.
11. Inspect the injector this will also give you an idea of the general health of the engine. Similar to the tale spark plugs tell you. A washed injector tip you might have a leaking head gasket cracked or broken lack of fuel or dry starting after running out of fuel or changing the filter.
12. Clean the injector tubes with a soft bristle brush I also used lacquer thinner and a scratch free Blue Scotch Brite they’re tough enough to clean the residue off the cups but wont scratch the injector cups. Cut off a section 1 inch by 1 inch and carefully work it in the cup with a screw driver the cup must be as clean as possible so you get a good seal. Wipe out the cup with a lint free rag soaked in lacquer thinner.
