Don_vincentio
Seasoned Expediter
I've got a 2012 so I should be good there hopefully.
Big Truck I work on Hino trucks. I'll answer any questions I know the answers to.
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Don_vincentio
Seasoned Expediter
Haven't played much with it, I bought a laptop to use it on, and within an hour had a virus on it from a program I downloaded, this laptops going back after I get my other laptop working, and no lights to really diagnose on the truck, hopefully it stays like that.
The first thing you'll want to do is to figure out the backdoor way of triggering a regen. There's a function for checking the dpf by forcing a regen, but you can't see what the burner is doing when using this method. You'll have to find (it's been a while) the line under the engine ecu's customization menu for the volume of soot in the dpf, change that to a number that will allow you to push the button on the dash and start one, then go into the BCU's diagnostic menu to monitor several things.
If you can figure out how to do this, then you can monitor a regen via the BCU, then you can email me the .txt file, then I can graph it and post it so there's a visual representation of what's going on. This is super, super useful for troubleshooting and for catching problems before they bite you in the ass.
If it hasn't been done already, every 2011-2013 truck you have needs to have the BCU software updated to 25FA. This is covered under an emissions recall. The reliability of this system has improved by leaps and bounds simply by altering its behavior through computer reprogramming. Every time they put out new software, the trucks get better.
Don_vincentio
Seasoned Expediter
I'll have to look into that when I get the software fully up and running, I was told about the software update when I bought the dpf injector a couple weeks ago, Haven't had it done yet. Knowing of the update, what are the chances the older dx software will still work after the update to the truck? I'm sure there's about two updates that need to be done if not more.
The updates will not affect the way the software functions. Then again, the version of DX (I don't remember any of these specifics) may affect some of its capabilities.
I said on here before, if someone was determined enough to buy it and learn to use it, I would help with that. Since you have, pm me your email address.
Hi guys,I have a question about a 2013 hino truck, AC only works if I supply an earth to the ac relay ,the compressor etc all come on and AC gets cold
The diagram I have has something called a "lock amp" which if I'm correct supply's the earth to the relay? Any ideas?
The diagram I have has something called a "lock amp" which if I'm correct supply's the earth to the relay? Any ideas?
Don_vincentio
Seasoned Expediter
I really appreciate that, one thing I am is always determined, if I can do something myself why go to a dealer or someone and spend money with them if I can do the same thing with some research myself. I think I owe you a steak if you're ever in the Chicagoland area.
I feel the same way, I'm determined to do everything myself. I'm teaching myself how to diagnose and fix my house's heat pump.
Hey guys, new to the forums here. Lets get started...
I drive a 2012 Hino 258 tow truck (flatbed). It has 179k miles and is in decent shape.
When I took it over, the atomizer was in the process of being replaced.. and our mechanic got it all in working order with no check engine lights / service engine lights on, and the regen worked.
About a week after my purge valve on my air dryer was acting up, and the check engine light came on again. Purge valve got replaced, all was good again.. no lights, air leaks, etc..
Now to the point of this post. The company I work for, the mechanic is very skilled and knows what he is doing but does not have a scanner / computer or any technological equipment to diagnose the trucks.
So I went to Autozone and bought a $100 special, and got the code:
P2202 - NOx sensor circuit low Bank 1.
I'm anal about my equipment and I cannot stand the engine light being on, and knowing that there is something up with my truck.
Is this something that needs to be done by the dealer and reset, or is it as simple as replacing the sensor? I can't stand our authorized hino repair people where I'm at.. kind of assholes when it comes to helping.. and have to leave my truck for a week or so.
Our mechanic is everywhere with a few different trucks and if I can help get mine done without bugging him too much, easier for everyone.
I drive a 2012 Hino 258 tow truck (flatbed). It has 179k miles and is in decent shape.
When I took it over, the atomizer was in the process of being replaced.. and our mechanic got it all in working order with no check engine lights / service engine lights on, and the regen worked.
About a week after my purge valve on my air dryer was acting up, and the check engine light came on again. Purge valve got replaced, all was good again.. no lights, air leaks, etc..
Now to the point of this post. The company I work for, the mechanic is very skilled and knows what he is doing but does not have a scanner / computer or any technological equipment to diagnose the trucks.
So I went to Autozone and bought a $100 special, and got the code:
P2202 - NOx sensor circuit low Bank 1.
I'm anal about my equipment and I cannot stand the engine light being on, and knowing that there is something up with my truck.
Is this something that needs to be done by the dealer and reset, or is it as simple as replacing the sensor? I can't stand our authorized hino repair people where I'm at.. kind of assholes when it comes to helping.. and have to leave my truck for a week or so.
Our mechanic is everywhere with a few different trucks and if I can help get mine done without bugging him too much, easier for everyone.
You will eventually need advanced diagnostic software to successfully diagnose the truck. You're only able to see the NOx sensor codes because they communicate directly to the ecu vs the dosing control unit (dcu).
For this particular problem, remove the two bolts holding the little aluminum box on the end of both NOx sensors. Turn the sensor over. If the part number of either sensor end in 0020 or E0450, replace them. Both sensors need to be E0451. The 0020's were terrible. The E0450's were only marginally better.
Do this before it evolves into a full-blown SCR malfunction because dealer software is mandatory to clear the memory. It's beyond clearing the codes at this point.
If you ever see scr malfunction, do not shut off the engine. You have 90 miles to make it to the dealer. It will be severely derated, but past that mileage or a certain number of engine starts you will be limited to 5mph.
I'm working on a model 236 hino. 08 ym. A month ago the truck had to have the DPR regenerated several times a week toward the end twice a day. I removed the DPR and had it cleaned at the local Kenworth dealer. It was fine for a month now were back to daily regens. No check engine light or codes. Any advise would be great.
Things that can cause automatic regen problems in 08-10 trucks (which you are experiencing):
Engine injectors have degraded (common)
Intake throttle valve sticking shut (are you also experiencing low power? Also common)
Turbocharger worn out or is passing a ton of oil through it (less common).
Engine ridiculously overfilled with oil. Much more common than one would think.
Things that can cause manual regen problems:
Everything above, plus the exhaust brake is out of adjustment.
There are other reasons, of course, but these things are the reason 80% of the time. At least half the time, injectors are the root cause of regen issues.
What you can do right now is modify the ITV. I describe how to do this in this thread. If it's worn out (sticks, has shaft play), replace it and modify the new one. This will solve some cases of low power during regen and a few other issues.
You will want to check and see if the A8440/A8510 recalls are open on your truck.
Is there black soot in your tailpipe? If so, the DPF is toast.
Thanks for getting back so soon. To answer your questions there isn't very much soot in the tailpipe. Hasn't been a complaint of low power. When I had the DPR off a month ago the inlet pipe was pretty normal no excess sludge from turbo leaking. But I do like your injector theory when I started the truck very strong smell in the air.
Owners of 11-14 conventionals: seriously consider replacing the flame temp sensor every 75k. At the same time, spray carb cleaner or brake cleaner through the burner nozzle for 20-30 seconds. Do not wipe the carbon off of the tip. I have seen that simple move mash carbon into the tiny ports and clog it. Just remove it, spray through it, verify an even spray pattern through it, and reinstall.
Remove the igniters and clean carbon off with a rag and brake cleaner. Reinstall, torque to 20 ft lbs. The gap between the tips is supposed to be 2.5-3.5 mm. Theres a special tool to check this, but you can make one. 6 inch piece of wire, 1/4 inch 90 degree bend on each end. File one end down to 2.5 mm, the other to 3.6. If you can get the small end through but not the big one, the gap is good. If its bigger than 3.5, flip the igniters side to side. If still too much gap, replace the igniter with the most wear.
These simple things will help reliability of the burner system. Also make sure the BCU and ECU software are up to date. The current burner software as of this posting is 25FA. ECU software depends on the individual truck. This reprogramming is covered by Hino.
While it's there, have the exhaust brake adjusted, especially if you use it often.
Treat the exhaust brake like a one time event. Dont leave it on all the time, but use it if needed. It interferes with the regen process. If the DPR graph is three bars or higher, it's doing a regen.
Remove the igniters and clean carbon off with a rag and brake cleaner. Reinstall, torque to 20 ft lbs. The gap between the tips is supposed to be 2.5-3.5 mm. Theres a special tool to check this, but you can make one. 6 inch piece of wire, 1/4 inch 90 degree bend on each end. File one end down to 2.5 mm, the other to 3.6. If you can get the small end through but not the big one, the gap is good. If its bigger than 3.5, flip the igniters side to side. If still too much gap, replace the igniter with the most wear.
These simple things will help reliability of the burner system. Also make sure the BCU and ECU software are up to date. The current burner software as of this posting is 25FA. ECU software depends on the individual truck. This reprogramming is covered by Hino.
While it's there, have the exhaust brake adjusted, especially if you use it often.
Treat the exhaust brake like a one time event. Dont leave it on all the time, but use it if needed. It interferes with the regen process. If the DPR graph is three bars or higher, it's doing a regen.
Don_vincentio
Seasoned Expediter
Greasytshirt, I know you've told me block heaters aren't your thing, maybe you've seen this issue, I had my pops plug my Hino in after he parked it, and after plugging it in, it sparked from under the truck, as if it was short circuited, have you seen anything like this before?
Most of these block heaters are pretty similar. Is the end of the cord plugged all the way into the heating element? Is there corrosion in the connector?
From what I've seen (not on Hinos, no one uses them around here) is that the heating element burns up and simply makes no connection anymore. If you see sparking, you've either got a loose connection or a short circuit somewhere.
Well it looks like there are aftermarket AC condensers:
05 to 07
UAC CN 22039PFC New AC Condenser Parallel Flow w/ Drier Fits 05-07 Hino New
08 to 10
NEW AC CONDENSER Fits Hino 2008-2010 ND, NE, NJ, NV Trucks 88460-E0120
05 to 07
UAC CN 22039PFC New AC Condenser Parallel Flow w/ Drier Fits 05-07 Hino New
08 to 10
NEW AC CONDENSER Fits Hino 2008-2010 ND, NE, NJ, NV Trucks 88460-E0120
hey there new to the group really very interested in learning more bout these hino whole new breed of truck to me
quite a few of my rollbacks are having lots of issues with the brake lights, the strobe lights , the beacon not working and the fuses are not blown ive overheard conversation by the dealer bout some kinda of computer module in link to it but not sure where or what it looks like??? little help please
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