Big Truck I work on Hino trucks. I'll answer any questions I know the answers to.

[greasytshirt]

UD uses the same programming as Hino. I use my UD software on the Hino trucks as well. The log I attached earlier shows that I'm getting target to actual is pretty close for the VNT and EGR. I've already checked the VNT linkage visually, that it movies when the truck is turned on. I'll check it again to see if I can move it by hand with the truck off. And check for shaft play and stickyness on the turbo.

I'm starting to suspect the turbo after looking at the logs a bit more. At wot when the engine is cold VNT is around 40% after its warmed up at wot VNT is +60%. Cant hear the turbo at all till after the truck is warmed up. My guess is they limit boost to lower when the engine is cold and the effect is more pronounced with a bad turbo.

Thanks for all your help so far.

Interesting, thank you for the feedback. These turbos aren't all that great.

Is scv current target/actual scv current matching? This can also cause periodic low power, but not quite as bad as you're describing.

Interesting factoid: Hino made a great deal of effort to improve the injectors in their engines, putting diamond-like carbon on many of the wear surfaces. They extended the injector warranty on many trucks well past what they had advertised, we just had to clear it with the TSM.
UD did not get any of these upgraded injectors. However, they will still work. You may not be able to program them in (the ecu won't recognize codes starting above a certain number), but it'll run well regardless, without a CEL (in my experience, anyway).

 

[Jag17]

Hey greasytshirt, I'm impressed with all your knowledge of the Hino trucks & I've read many of your posts over the past year. I think I saw in one of the post you work for a Hino dealer in VA but I'm not sure which one. Is this correct? I'm in NC right now & going to NJ. If you are in VA I would like to stop by the dealer to have my truck looked at.

I have a 2008 Hino 268 with 730,000+ miles. The truck seems to be ok for the most part but would like to have things checked over by someone knowledgeable. The truck has always been worked on by various types of mechanics & not always a positive result. This past summer my truck was out of commission for 5 weeks. Not good. At the moment I would like to have a PM service, Have things looked over to warn me of any future problems & I have a very bad squealing problem from time to time. Yesterday was the worst 500 miles of squealing. In the past year I've had the belts changed 3 times, alternator changed 6 months ago and tensioner replaced a year ago.

I hope you're able to reply soon. If I can set up an appointment I will stop in VA tonight and wait to bring it in.

Please let me know.
Thank you, Anthony

 

[greasytshirt]

Hey greasytshirt, I'm impressed with all your knowledge of the Hino trucks & I've read many of your posts over the past year. I think I saw in one of the post you work for a Hino dealer in VA but I'm not sure which one. Is this correct? I'm in NC right now & going to NJ. If you are in VA I would like to stop by the dealer to have my truck looked at.

I have a 2008 Hino 268 with 730,000+ miles. The truck seems to be ok for the most part but would like to have things checked over by someone knowledgeable. The truck has always been worked on by various types of mechanics & not always a positive result. This past summer my truck was out of commission for 5 weeks. Not good. At the moment I would like to have a PM service, Have things looked over to warn me of any future problems & I have a very bad squealing problem from time to time. Yesterday was the worst 500 miles of squealing. In the past year I've had the belts changed 3 times, alternator changed 6 months ago and tensioner replaced a year ago.

I hope you're able to reply soon. If I can set up an appointment I will stop in VA tonight and wait to bring it in.

Please let me know.
Thank you, Anthony

Sending you a PM.

 

[Maxx]

Hey greasytshirt How are you I have a 2011 Hino 338 While driving today after 220 miles the check engine light came on. I had the Hino explorer software with me at that moment so i connected to see what it was. It gave an inactive code P2214 (Abnormality in downstream NOx sensor characterstic). I cleared the code and the check engine light went away. I drove another 60 miles and the truck drives fine without the light. The truck had been sitting for a month and a half before i drove it today. Do you think i should replace the sensors wait to see if the light comes again. I know there are two open recalls on the truck for ECU reprogramming and BCU update. Would those help?

 

[greasytshirt]

Hey greasytshirt How are you I have a 2011 Hino 338 While driving today after 220 miles the check engine light came on. I had the Hino explorer software with me at that moment so i connected to see what it was. It gave an inactive code P2214 (Abnormality in downstream NOx sensor characterstic). I cleared the code and the check engine light went away. I drove another 60 miles and the truck drives fine without the light. The truck had been sitting for a month and a half before i drove it today. Do you think i should replace the sensors wait to see if the light comes again. I know there are two open recalls on the truck for ECU reprogramming and BCU update. Would those help?

If the sensor's part numbers end in either 0020 or E0450, yes, replace them. The newest sensors end with E0451. If you have the new sensors, well, things get a little more vague. DEF quality, DEF injector spray pattern/leakage need to be evaluated. Air getting pulled into the DEF pump is a possibility, among others. Even dirt buildup on the Mass airflow sensor's elements can cause this.

The NOx sensor's output needs to be evaluated also. Certain behaviors aren't acceptable, but it can be somewhat difficult to tell what exactly they're doing. Expect a spike of several volts the moment they both go online, which should taper off to under a volt and stabilize. Oscillations or voltage climbing to above 1 volt are unacceptable. They're kind of expensive, not the kind of thing you'd replace on a whim.

Definitely get the updates done. These are for improving burner reliability, especially as fuel injector health begins to degrade, and if the exhaust brake is used extensively.

 

[paradisecustom]

Hi greasyshirt, Can you tell me the micron rating required for a 2008 Hino 258ALP fuel filter? It has a DAVCO fuel filter

 

[greasytshirt]

Hi greasyshirt, Can you tell me the micron rating required for a 2008 Hino 258ALP fuel filter? It has a DAVCO fuel filter

Not sure. I think it's 3 micron. It's small, keeps water droplets from passing through.

 

[coalminer]

Well I found my next thing to tear apart, I am leaking fluid from the rear axle, have had a couple of times where my abs light came on and the problem was the left rear wheel, when I got under there to tap the sensor in, I saw it was wet with oil, does not look like it is pouring out but it is leaking for sure. I sure hope the hino dealer in Wichita ks has parts in stock.....

 

[greasytshirt]

Well I found my next thing to tear apart, I am leaking fluid from the rear axle, have had a couple of times where my abs light came on and the problem was the left rear wheel, when I got under there to tap the sensor in, I saw it was wet with oil, does not look like it is pouring out but it is leaking for sure. I sure hope the hino dealer in Wichita ks has parts in stock.....

The axle is a Meritor. Any truck place should be able to fix it. You don't have to use a Meritor seal, a Stemco will work fine. A lot of truck shops have a pile of these in stock.

 

[coalminer]

The axle is a Meritor. Any truck place should be able to fix it. You don't have to use a Meritor seal, a Stemco will work fine. A lot of truck shops have a pile of these in stock.

True didn't think of that, I wonder if the bearings are worn that may have caused the seal to start leaking?

 

[greasytshirt]

True didn't think of that, I wonder if the bearings are worn that may have caused the seal to start leaking?

That is always a possibility. It's hard to quote a wheel seal repair, as half the time you find trashed bearings too.

 

[coalminer]

That is always a possibility. It's hard to quote a wheel seal repair, as half the time you find trashed bearings too.

I have a feeling they are bad, the abs light comes on when turning and applying the brakes at the same time. And to top it off it looks like the pinion seal is leaking a little also.

Probably going to top off the fluid and try to get a load home so I can tear into it. Looks like this is not going to be an easy job.

What would be your guess as to how many hours labor to do the bearings and seal on one side?

 

[greasytshirt]

I have a feeling they are bad, the abs light comes on when turning and applying the brakes at the same time. And to top it off it looks like the pinion seal is leaking a little also.

Probably going to top off the fluid and try to get a load home so I can tear into it. Looks like this is not going to be an easy job.

What would be your guess as to how many hours labor to do the bearings and seal on one side?

Air or hyd brakes?

Either way, you're gonna need to put that corner on jackstands, get the wheels off, the axle out. If hyd brakes, you're gonna need a 30mm wrench to get the rear caliper off. Set it on a 5 gallon bucket so you don't mangle the hose. If air brake, back the slack adjuster all the way off then pop the drum once with a sledgehammer. Slide drum off.

Getting the seals out can be a pain. A lady foot pry bar sometimes works well. Driving damaged races out is a bear unless you have a huge punch that's about a foot long.

This is gonna take you 2 hours minimum, assuming that you have all of the tools you need right there and you don't have to go to the parts store ten times.

If turning sets the ABS lamp, then I'd get the wheel seal, both bearings and races all at the same time. That's super loose.

 

[coalminer]

Stopped at a loves and they didn't have the seal, going to try to make my deliver and head to the closest shop to see what I can do. I have the 30mm socket to get the bracket off but don't have a big torque wrench or the socket for the bearings.

 

[coalminer]

No luck on finding the seal, will drive to Wichita tomorrow and hope that the hino dealer there has one. When I was under there I tapped the sensor in and the light has not come back on even though I tried to see what would make it turn on.

The tone rings are really bad on the rotors so next time I am home, it's getting new bearings, rotors, pads and seals.

 

[greasytshirt]

No luck on finding the seal, will drive to Wichita tomorrow and hope that the hino dealer there has one. When I was under there I tapped the sensor in and the light has not come back on even though I tried to see what would make it turn on.

The tone rings are really bad on the rotors so next time I am home, it's getting new bearings, rotors, pads and seals.

I don't know why no one has the seal.

The tone rings will totally rust away over time.

 

[Maxx]

If the sensor's part numbers end in either 0020 or E0450, yes, replace them. The newest sensors end with E0451. If you have the new sensors, well, things get a little more vague. DEF quality, DEF injector spray pattern/leakage need to be evaluated. Air getting pulled into the DEF pump is a possibility, among others. Even dirt buildup on the Mass airflow sensor's elements can cause this.

The NOx sensor's output needs to be evaluated also. Certain behaviors aren't acceptable, but it can be somewhat difficult to tell what exactly they're doing. Expect a spike of several volts the moment they both go online, which should taper off to under a volt and stabilize. Oscillations or voltage climbing to above 1 volt are unacceptable. They're kind of expensive, not the kind of thing you'd replace on a whim.

Definitely get the updates done. These are for improving burner reliability, especially as fuel injector health begins to degrade, and if the exhaust brake is used extensively.

I did get both the recalls done. The truck has been running fine since then and the light hasn't come back on. The truck does have the newest sensors.

I also have a 2010 Hino 338 which has been acting up since yesterday. While driving yesterday the regen light came on. I pulled the truck of the highway and pressed the regen button. The truck took over 50 mins but the regen would not complete. I did see smoke coming out of the exhaust while doing the regen. I therefore did reset the DPR function with the laptop as it was late in the evening yesterday as i had another 300 miles to drive. The truck runs fine but now the DPR goes from 1 bar directly to 5 bars and then asks for a regen. I did not perform the regen this time and kept driving. The truck would perform an automatic regen while driving and goes back to zero bars from 5 bars. It does the exact same thing every 30-35 miles. It does not get 2 or 3 or 4 bars.

 

[coalminer]

I don't know why no one has the seal.

The tone rings will totally rust away over time.

The loves that I stopped at to put the seal in didn't even have the proper numbered tool to install the seal, but he was able to put it in without screwing it up. He had never done one with hydraulic disc brakes before I had to explain that the caliper has to come off first, he was going to try to use that dolly that holds the tires that are still attached to the hub.

The bearings looked good could tell they were worn but the tone rings on the rotors are really bad, going to have to change them soon. At least now I know what size socket I need for the bearing nuts, 3 1/2 inch.

When I get home next going to replace pads rotors bearing and seals. I think the next time I am in your area I will bring it to your shop to get the pinion seal replaced, if your not too busy that is.

 

[greasytshirt]

The loves that I stopped at to put the seal in didn't even have the proper numbered tool to install the seal, but he was able to put it in without screwing it up. He had never done one with hydraulic disc brakes before I had to explain that the caliper has to come off first, he was going to try to use that dolly that holds the tires that are still attached to the hub.

The bearings looked good could tell they were worn but the tone rings on the rotors are really bad, going to have to change them soon. At least now I know what size socket I need for the bearing nuts, 3 1/2 inch.

When I get home next going to replace pads rotors bearing and seals. I think the next time I am in your area I will bring it to your shop to get the pinion seal replaced, if your not too busy that is.

Unlike everywhere else, im sure we have that seal in stock.

 

[greasytshirt]

I did get both the recalls done. The truck has been running fine since then and the light hasn't come back on. The truck does have the newest sensors.

I also have a 2010 Hino 338 which has been acting up since yesterday. While driving yesterday the regen light came on. I pulled the truck of the highway and pressed the regen button. The truck took over 50 mins but the regen would not complete. I did see smoke coming out of the exhaust while doing the regen. I therefore did reset the DPR function with the laptop as it was late in the evening yesterday as i had another 300 miles to drive. The truck runs fine but now the DPR goes from 1 bar directly to 5 bars and then asks for a regen. I did not perform the regen this time and kept driving. The truck would perform an automatic regen while driving and goes back to zero bars from 5 bars. It does the exact same thing every 30-35 miles. It does not get 2 or 3 or 4 bars.

Check itv for wear and proper modification.
This sounds like a failing dpr temp sensor, or a break in the harness side of one of the temp sensor connectors. Inlet side harness wires most prone to breaking internally, generally within an inch or two of the connector. Vibration causes the wires to weaken, or the insulation rubs off and corrosion sets in. Check that very carefully. You may see wide temp discrepancies with dx, but not always.

Either that or the DOC has melted into a blob. Whats the max dpr outlet temp recorded in system protection data?