That sounds exactly like the symptoms of a sticking expansion valve, or a system with moisture in it. Which is rare.
Big Truck I work on Hino trucks. I'll answer any questions I know the answers to.
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That sounds exactly like the symptoms of a sticking expansion valve, or a system with moisture in it. Which is rare.
Truckbizz
Rookie Expediter
its weird, first week it would blow the air so cold I honestly couldn't stand it LoL! This Friday though out of nowhere it blew warm air, so I turned it off and restarted the air conditioner. It kept blowing warm air and once in awhile cold air. Is there something I can check? Or should I have the dealer look at it? It's brand new, just picked it up 1/22/2015 thank you for your help in advance.
It's under warranty, so I'd let them take care of it.
It's also possible that it somehow developed a leak, but that's unusual. Generally they run without incident for years, then the compressor grenades. The lines don't leak, the evaporators don't leak, the expansion valves are generally very trouble free too. The compressors are better quality than on many other trucks, imo.
Acme RoadRunner
Rookie Expediter
Hello, I'm in process of purchasing a new 258LP box truck, mostly for hauling pre-fabricated duct work which can maximize the load capacity of the truck. We only put about 20,000 miles a year on one, so I plan on having it for the next 15 years. I believe I should go with the 2500 transmission, but I'm undecided between the 200hp and the 260hp engine. What are your thoughts? My main objective in this purchase is reliability and longevity. What's the average lifespan of these engines?
aalbert800
Rookie Expediter
Hello Ive been working on a hino 2006 268 JO8E engine with hydraulic brakes and can not seem to figure an issue out with the engine. I also have the hino software and I get a engine code U1001 Can Communication error and also the abs light is on and the blink code is 7-4, retarder relay. The truck runs fine for a random number of minutes until the engine is derated, turning off the truck fixes the problem sometimes for 1 minute to 1 hour. The truck also under heavy load will stutter and turbo will should like its trying to blow off pressure.
Thanks in advance for any help or if there is something else you need to know just ask.
Thanks in advance for any help or if there is something else you need to know just ask.
The 260hp engine is different in a few ways. It has steel pistons instead of aluminum, it has different injectors and ecu, and a few other things. Its longevity should be about the same as that of the 220hp, but the steel slugs may survive a catastrophic overheat better than the aluminum ones.
I can't really comment on lifespan, honestly. They can run a million miles. I've seen them blow up with less than 200k on them, but these were treated horribly. I mean, if someone makes an air filter out of chicken wire and a t-shirt, you can't really blame the truck when it ****s the bed, right? 500k should be easily obtainable. I've given a ton of clues in this thread on how to care for these things, and with these things done you should be good to go.
If you have Hino software, test the VNT. Actual VNT position should follow target to within 5%. Any deviation from this makes the VNT controller suspect. If you see deviation, spray the upper and lower VNT links, and the lever going into the turbine housing (which is impossible to see) with Loctite Nickel Antiseize from an aerosol can.
The turbo sounding like it's blowing off pressure...does it sound like this?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LZUbo_mNDZM#t=16
If so, remove the turbo inlet junk and reach down in there and wiggle the shaft. Any in/out play? If so, replace. Radial play excessive to the point where the compressor blades hit the housing? If so, replace. Spin the turbo. Press the shaft sideways just slightly and try to spin it. Does it seem like it gets stuck? If so, replace. That last one, that sticking is something that I almost always find on a turbo that's worn out, and the first clue is compressor surge like that in the video when the engine is decelerated or shut off.
The most common codes indicating turbo failure are P0045 VNT malfunction and U0073 CAN communication error, engine ecu. The second one presents itself when the engine ecu cannot communicate with the VNT controller.
Another U-code is possible when EGR valve failure is present. It's not the one you have though. I don't remember what it is off the top of my head.
Pre-2008 trucks frequently have the U1001 code present, along with other u-codes. Generally they don't really mean much of anything, even if they simply never go away and can't be cleared. I strongly recommend cleaning all of the ground connections, especially the left rear cab to frame ground. Take both ends down to bare metal. Another occasionally pesky ground is inside the cab, far right side, between ecu stack and the cab. Pull the fuse cover, upper fusebox cover/dash thing, right speaker cover and right dash corner all off (much simpler than it sounds). Pour enough coffee and Mt Dew on any ground point and it'll eventually degrade.
Automatic transmission? Do NOT drive with ABS light on.
Code 7-4 retarder relay...these don't have retarders or a retarder relay. I don't like the flash code method, I find it's inaccurate. With that said, another question: Do you have accessories wired into the fuse panel by sticking wires into empty slots, or by pushing wires into a slot with a fuse, or anything like that? (Everyone does it, lets be honest). A couple of years ago I ran into a nightmarish problem with a brand new truck that had the ABS light come on at random. Random meant anywhere from 10 to 100 miles. It was a rollback, and typical of rollbacks it had a bunch of accessories wired into it. One of the things was a power inverter. Inverters are supposed to be wired directly to the batteries. This one was not.
The ABS does a self-check every time it powers up. It looks for inputs on a number of wires to see what it's equipped with. This specific truck kept thinking it was equipped with a retarder, and it wasn't. What I found (after hours and hours of searching) was that wire had about 20 millivolts on it. 20 millivolts was on every leg of that fuse bus, too. Guess what else was attached to that fuse bus? An old, faulty power inverter that was backfeeding into the circuit, and the ABS was interpreting that as an installed engine retarder, and then it would set a code for not seeing the retarder after the engine started.
That debacle was all covered under warranty, despite nothing actually being wrong with the truck itself.
So take a look at all the GPS, qualcomm units, power inverters, portable coffee makers, etc and figure out where they are connected and see if that's actually the best way to do it or not.
I guess a bad cab ground could also manifest as inexplicable ABS faults too, if a similar scenario unfolds.
I've been meaning to take a picture of that modern art masterpiece. It's in the parts dept somewhere.
aalbert800
Rookie Expediter
Thanks for the quick response... I check the vnt turbo using the software and it does follow target vnt by 5%. However I also did have a inactive code of the u0073.. I check the pulse rate on the it and it was 0 to 6.43 volts (above the 0-5 volts the troubleshoot says not sure if that tells you if its vnt or bad ecu or normal).
The video is the exact noise that the turbo makes but it makes that noise when accelerating and deceleration. Ill take the inlet off tonight and check the wobble like you describe.
I have not be able to check any of the abs stuff but it is the Allison auto transmission and I dont know why I getting the retarder relay code.. .maybe have the wrong code book... Ill also clean all the connections tonight and the only thing I have plug up to the fuse box is an air compressor to fill up a mini tank, ill disconnect that and see if that gets the abs light off.
I think your vnt controller is dying. It is not available separately. You're probably going to have to replace the turbo if cleaning the grounds doesn't help.
That pretty much means that the ecu is trying to communicate to the VNT but it's not being successful. Classic vnt fail, as long as ecu grounds arent compromised.
JGMMDURAMAX
Rookie Expediter
I have a 2008 Hino 185 when on the hwy accelerating into a cross wind or a head wind there is definitely a lack of power , what can be done to get more power from the engine.
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Sell it and get one with a six cylinder?
The 4 bangers are pretty much slugs. They like to rev though. What rpm are you turning at say, 60 mph in high gear?
The exhaust manifold studs like to break (especially if some of the exhaust hangers are missing) and this causes exhaust leaks. Very common. If there's an exhaust leak, energy that would go to the turbo to make boost is lost.
If the gearing is totally inappropriate, high gear will be useless.
If the ITV has a ton of junk in it, it may not open properly. This will cause an airflow restriction.
If you are looking at modifications or big turbos or injectors or anything like that, nothing exists from Hino, no one makes this stuff for Hino, and I'm assuming the ecu will punish most attempts to do so.
JGMMDURAMAX
Rookie Expediter
I can't sell it I just bought it and it's replacing my F550 6.0L straight truck what a big change to having power to no power
At 60 mph around 2100 rpm and at 75 mph 2800 rpm empty with a tail wind
as for exhaust leaks at the manifold all sounds ok
The one problem is the red coolant light in the dash going on with a very load siren alarm , deafening
At 60 mph around 2100 rpm and at 75 mph 2800 rpm empty with a tail wind
as for exhaust leaks at the manifold all sounds ok
The one problem is the red coolant light in the dash going on with a very load siren alarm , deafening
You have a coolant leak. Does the coolant return from the overflow tank to the radiator when it cools off? If not, test the radiator cap. Also, has the hose on the bottom of the overflow bottle cap fallen off? It needs to be fished out of the tank and reattached. It's also possible to connect the overflow cap hoses backward, so the radiator sucks in air when it cools off.
Cold leaks around the radiator hoses are common. More common where they attach to the engine, less common at the radiator.
Check the seams around the radiator. After a number of years, the seal between the core and the tanks gives up. You can try to gently crimp it tighter with a pair of pliers, but that's generally temporary. They actually sell the side tanks separately, but good luck getting them to seal. If leakage around the side tanks is found, the short answer is you need a radiator.
Check around the oil cooler. The six cylinder trucks are famous for puking coolant from three seal rings between the oil cooler and block. I don't recall ever having to re-seal a four cylinder, but I'm sure it happens.
Check the water pump weep hole. Coolant residue indicates a leak.
Greetings everyone.
I have a 2005 268 6 speed with 479,460 miles on it.
A few weeks ago I took the truck to a dealer for a PM and had a ECM report done. ECM report was done as couldn't remember what the term for the dx report was at that time and couldn't find it on this thread. Difference this time was that the dealership used a Baldwin brand fuel filter. Previous fuel filters had only been Hino brand.
The following day the truck ran normally, without any issues for one day, 172 miles. However on the second day following the PM, going into town I noticed what seemed grey smoke while on a freeway ramp, it was early morning and still dark outside, barely noticable and only at that time 65mph with response normal. I fueled up didn't see any smoke on my way to the warehouse to load up. Once loaded it started up, it idled for 30 seconds then shut off. I had only experienced this with improper sealing of fuel filter a while back and thought this was the case.
Truck started up normal and idled normal. When put in gear, there would be no throttle response. I was able to move down the warehouse parking lot in gear and it practically idling forward. In neutral engine would only creep up to and be limited to 900-1000 rpm when pressing down on the throttle. Then would shut off after blowing out white bluish smoke from tail pipe and the EGR leak location at the flex joint above the exhaust flange.
Dealership did some sort of test on the fuel pump and showed it doing 1499 PSI instead of the 7000PSI needed (was showed a window screenshot printout). They've suggested they need to "replace fuel pump, due to no fuel pressure, internal pump failure, need to flush fuel system, check fuel tank, change filters" as well as needing to "replace all 6 injectors due to possible metal contamination" There is a portion on the estimate for additional repairs/diagnostics "once engine is running"
The Hino service manager explained the fuel pump go bad from the inside and so it is possible metal fragments could have made it to the injectors.
Questions:
-Does this seem plausible?
I do not know if dealership started up the truck or if it was able to idle for them. "once engine is running" portion. I could see a fuel pump replacement if it is indeed an high pressure output failure, but unsure about the metal fragments into injectors. Almost sounds like an injector up sale but explanation seems to have some legitimacy.
-Are there any Baldwin Filter vs Hino Filter issues?
Service counter guy made a case for the specs being the same. If not, would metal fragments get passed the filter to the injectors? I recall 7 microns being said, Part Number: PF7748JAB
-Does it really take one hour to connect to hino, download and print ecm report?
-Anything else that can be done to reinforce the diagnosis of a dead pump? I saw your troubleshooting with Delmolino Posts #552-560 and 576-577. I realize mine is not the same, but I noticed the fuel pump condemning portion. I'm not sure how to ask a dealership on possible other alternatives of diagnosing a dead pump and not sure if they have done any other alternatives. Unsure about wiring and connector condition. Truck was washed 3 days prior but ran normal.
Tangents:
With the EGR leak, the air filter gets in some of the exhaust and is black. I replaced the air filter 30k miles ago and rotated it 16k miles. I don't know how much of this variable is affecting the two EGR valve sticking counts stored in the ECM report. Engine runs hot during the hotter months here in Arizona. I baby the truck once it goes beyond the running hot mark. Normal running is 1/4 between the middle two gauge marks, running hot mark 1/2 between middle two gauge marks. I avoid overheating it (needle entering mark before red) and even run heater when needed for the marginal help. No A/C belt. Radiator spaces have been cleaned, water pump, fan clutch, fan all replaced. Familiar with inline engines and head gaskets from 87-92 Supra issues, so I watch needle movement alot. I have always done warm up and cool down idles if engine is going to be turned off.
Truck has been good to me with minor issues and I am now at a sell mileage vs repair cost crossroads if it is indeed. Chassis is clean and still in good condition save a leaf spring beginning to sag. A few of the folks at the dealership were impressed by the mileage. Are there many 500k+ 268s still around?
TL&DR:
Known issues:
-No throttle response, limited to 1000rpm
-EGR leak @/near exhaust manifold
-Air filter in need of replacement
-stored EGR valve sticking 2 times per ECM report
-stored Crank sensor codes per ECM report
-Runs hot during Arizona summer
Conditions:
-Washed 3 days prior (450 normal function miles afterward)
-Recent PM
-Fresh fuel (only refueling station last 100k miles)
-Idled normal, no CEL prior to dealership
-Hino filter swapped in but no change
Thank you in advance.
I have a 2005 268 6 speed with 479,460 miles on it.
A few weeks ago I took the truck to a dealer for a PM and had a ECM report done. ECM report was done as couldn't remember what the term for the dx report was at that time and couldn't find it on this thread. Difference this time was that the dealership used a Baldwin brand fuel filter. Previous fuel filters had only been Hino brand.
The following day the truck ran normally, without any issues for one day, 172 miles. However on the second day following the PM, going into town I noticed what seemed grey smoke while on a freeway ramp, it was early morning and still dark outside, barely noticable and only at that time 65mph with response normal. I fueled up didn't see any smoke on my way to the warehouse to load up. Once loaded it started up, it idled for 30 seconds then shut off. I had only experienced this with improper sealing of fuel filter a while back and thought this was the case.
Truck started up normal and idled normal. When put in gear, there would be no throttle response. I was able to move down the warehouse parking lot in gear and it practically idling forward. In neutral engine would only creep up to and be limited to 900-1000 rpm when pressing down on the throttle. Then would shut off after blowing out white bluish smoke from tail pipe and the EGR leak location at the flex joint above the exhaust flange.
Dealership did some sort of test on the fuel pump and showed it doing 1499 PSI instead of the 7000PSI needed (was showed a window screenshot printout). They've suggested they need to "replace fuel pump, due to no fuel pressure, internal pump failure, need to flush fuel system, check fuel tank, change filters" as well as needing to "replace all 6 injectors due to possible metal contamination" There is a portion on the estimate for additional repairs/diagnostics "once engine is running"
The Hino service manager explained the fuel pump go bad from the inside and so it is possible metal fragments could have made it to the injectors.
Questions:
-Does this seem plausible?
I do not know if dealership started up the truck or if it was able to idle for them. "once engine is running" portion. I could see a fuel pump replacement if it is indeed an high pressure output failure, but unsure about the metal fragments into injectors. Almost sounds like an injector up sale but explanation seems to have some legitimacy.
-Are there any Baldwin Filter vs Hino Filter issues?
Service counter guy made a case for the specs being the same. If not, would metal fragments get passed the filter to the injectors? I recall 7 microns being said, Part Number: PF7748JAB
-Does it really take one hour to connect to hino, download and print ecm report?
-Anything else that can be done to reinforce the diagnosis of a dead pump? I saw your troubleshooting with Delmolino Posts #552-560 and 576-577. I realize mine is not the same, but I noticed the fuel pump condemning portion. I'm not sure how to ask a dealership on possible other alternatives of diagnosing a dead pump and not sure if they have done any other alternatives. Unsure about wiring and connector condition. Truck was washed 3 days prior but ran normal.
Tangents:
With the EGR leak, the air filter gets in some of the exhaust and is black. I replaced the air filter 30k miles ago and rotated it 16k miles. I don't know how much of this variable is affecting the two EGR valve sticking counts stored in the ECM report. Engine runs hot during the hotter months here in Arizona. I baby the truck once it goes beyond the running hot mark. Normal running is 1/4 between the middle two gauge marks, running hot mark 1/2 between middle two gauge marks. I avoid overheating it (needle entering mark before red) and even run heater when needed for the marginal help. No A/C belt. Radiator spaces have been cleaned, water pump, fan clutch, fan all replaced. Familiar with inline engines and head gaskets from 87-92 Supra issues, so I watch needle movement alot. I have always done warm up and cool down idles if engine is going to be turned off.
Truck has been good to me with minor issues and I am now at a sell mileage vs repair cost crossroads if it is indeed. Chassis is clean and still in good condition save a leaf spring beginning to sag. A few of the folks at the dealership were impressed by the mileage. Are there many 500k+ 268s still around?
TL&DR:
Known issues:
-No throttle response, limited to 1000rpm
-EGR leak @/near exhaust manifold
-Air filter in need of replacement
-stored EGR valve sticking 2 times per ECM report
-stored Crank sensor codes per ECM report
-Runs hot during Arizona summer
Conditions:
-Washed 3 days prior (450 normal function miles afterward)
-Recent PM
-Fresh fuel (only refueling station last 100k miles)
-Idled normal, no CEL prior to dealership
-Hino filter swapped in but no change
Thank you in advance.
That's one hell of a question! I like it.
Idk why they used a Hastings filter. The easiest thing to do is put a Hino filter back on and see if it helps.
It takes 10 minutes to do a dx report. Add half an hour to warm it up and do fuel system evaluation tests.
If injection pump is confirmed bad, which I'm not convinced of yet, it's a simple process to then evaluate injectors. This part sounds hella scammy, to recommend injectors when the truck doesn't run well enough to test them.
I really, really want them to do an 'scv test', then email you the .txt file. Email it to me and I will graph it and post the results.
Possible no rev, often accompanied by black smoke at idle, indicates turbo vnt failure, accompanied by P0045 or U0073 codes. The second code can trick one into thinking of ecm failure. See either of these codes before, maybe in dx report?
The radiators collect an impressive amount of crap in the fins that remain completely concealed unless the intercooler is removed.
The fan clutch has to work properly. You will hear it roar when it comes on. If you don't, replace it. If the belt chirps, replace the belt and tensioner at the same time.
If fan clutch works, belt doesn't slip, thermostat opens correctly, radiator fins cleaned, no evidence of combustion gas in cooling system, abd it still overheats, replace radiator.
Oh, any P0087/P0088 codes? Low/high fuel rail pressure? Any codes set at all during this episode?
During this episode after dealership verified turbo was good and fuel related, put in a Hino filter with same result.
The print out has a cover page with a header of "Troubleshooting report" then has VIN, Work date, Operator right below it and then Vehicle Information. This report was taken two days prior to episode during the PM. Do not know if they pulled codes when they received it this last time. Unsure how the PSI test done or tested.
DTC information: (order listed)
U1001
P0404
P1401
P0500
P0704
The Month, Day, Hours, Minutes columns on all the codes are 0, Year is 1985 on all. I'm not sure if this is a default setting. At work start and At the end of work are 0 for these columns.
Order of Freeze frame information:
P0404 EGR value 1 sticking (187 coolant temp, 1868 rpm, 54mph)
P1401 EGR value 2 sticking (183 coolant temp, 1706 rpm, 52mph)
P0500 Malfunction of speed sensor (Low)
Coolant temperature : 178
Engine revolution: 2211
Injection Quantity: 91.02 mm3/st
Final accelerator opening: 80
Speed: 0 mph (zero mph)
P0704 Malfunction of clutch switch
Coolant Temperature: 183
Engine revolution: 747
Injection quantity: 11.55
U1001 Malfunction of CAN communication (vehicle)
Engine coolant temperature: 129
Can I safely assume the listing order in the information portion is the order they occurred? For instance is the order the two EGR first then speed sensor, then clutch switch, then CAN?
Looking at the speed sensor rpm, only time the engine rpm would go that high in neutral would be during emissions testing in July. Jaw dropped when I saw a Maximum Revolution of 3936.5 rpm in the "Information of Protected Data" Arizona emissions does a "snap test" and get the opacity reading at the tailpipe. Although I'm guessing speed sensor fault wouldn't pick up speed while vehicle is moving.
The clutch switch fault, that was last summer also. Whenever the plastic tightening nut loosens up, the truck doesn't start, no start as turn key and only get dash. I would sometimes get it to start by activating the switch with my finger and truck in neutral. Have had this happen before and have had a new one in a box inside truck for three years. I originally, three years ago, was going to remove the "old" one and noticed this. After securing it in place, the truck not starting went away.
There are no P0087/P0088 codes stored. Unsure if there is a maximum amount of codes stored though as I already have five. Again, I don't know if they pulled a dx report this episode. It's something I'll need to find out.
Initially when the episode happened I was thinking something with the turbocharger not making boost. But was no black smoke at all. It was whiteish blue close to grey. Didn't see a P0045 or U0073 listed. Dealership mentioned it was not the turbo. Turbo related info from report is Air flow sensor characteristic value = 1 and Meter correction coefficient = 1
Quite the concise trouble shooting flow chart of sorts. THANK YOU SO MUCH!
This is something I'll have to double check myself if new life is breathed into the truck. Stored values of number of overruns and overheat are zero, Max coolant temp 228, Max fuel temp 180. A thought to something you had posted a while back about headgasket and #6 cylinder.
Could this be something of a function of:
-How the coolant flows through the head and warms up, warmer at back than front
-Residual heat generated by turbo elbow transferring to exhaust manifold #5 and #6 runners thus keeping back cylinders marginally warmer than front.
Homework:
-Get scv test done and pass on results
-Get current dx report
-Stalk Greasytshirt, find out Virgina shop location, this man needs some free lunches. So much information and assistance freely given. Saved people lots of money, downtime, parts, headaches and headache relief.
The print out has a cover page with a header of "Troubleshooting report" then has VIN, Work date, Operator right below it and then Vehicle Information. This report was taken two days prior to episode during the PM. Do not know if they pulled codes when they received it this last time. Unsure how the PSI test done or tested.
DTC information: (order listed)
U1001
P0404
P1401
P0500
P0704
The Month, Day, Hours, Minutes columns on all the codes are 0, Year is 1985 on all. I'm not sure if this is a default setting. At work start and At the end of work are 0 for these columns.
Order of Freeze frame information:
P0404 EGR value 1 sticking (187 coolant temp, 1868 rpm, 54mph)
P1401 EGR value 2 sticking (183 coolant temp, 1706 rpm, 52mph)
P0500 Malfunction of speed sensor (Low)
Coolant temperature : 178
Engine revolution: 2211
Injection Quantity: 91.02 mm3/st
Final accelerator opening: 80
Speed: 0 mph (zero mph)
P0704 Malfunction of clutch switch
Coolant Temperature: 183
Engine revolution: 747
Injection quantity: 11.55
U1001 Malfunction of CAN communication (vehicle)
Engine coolant temperature: 129
Can I safely assume the listing order in the information portion is the order they occurred? For instance is the order the two EGR first then speed sensor, then clutch switch, then CAN?
Looking at the speed sensor rpm, only time the engine rpm would go that high in neutral would be during emissions testing in July. Jaw dropped when I saw a Maximum Revolution of 3936.5 rpm in the "Information of Protected Data" Arizona emissions does a "snap test" and get the opacity reading at the tailpipe. Although I'm guessing speed sensor fault wouldn't pick up speed while vehicle is moving.
The clutch switch fault, that was last summer also. Whenever the plastic tightening nut loosens up, the truck doesn't start, no start as turn key and only get dash. I would sometimes get it to start by activating the switch with my finger and truck in neutral. Have had this happen before and have had a new one in a box inside truck for three years. I originally, three years ago, was going to remove the "old" one and noticed this. After securing it in place, the truck not starting went away.
There are no P0087/P0088 codes stored. Unsure if there is a maximum amount of codes stored though as I already have five. Again, I don't know if they pulled a dx report this episode. It's something I'll need to find out.
Initially when the episode happened I was thinking something with the turbocharger not making boost. But was no black smoke at all. It was whiteish blue close to grey. Didn't see a P0045 or U0073 listed. Dealership mentioned it was not the turbo. Turbo related info from report is Air flow sensor characteristic value = 1 and Meter correction coefficient = 1
Quite the concise trouble shooting flow chart of sorts. THANK YOU SO MUCH!
This is something I'll have to double check myself if new life is breathed into the truck. Stored values of number of overruns and overheat are zero, Max coolant temp 228, Max fuel temp 180. A thought to something you had posted a while back about headgasket and #6 cylinder.
Could this be something of a function of:
-How the coolant flows through the head and warms up, warmer at back than front
-Residual heat generated by turbo elbow transferring to exhaust manifold #5 and #6 runners thus keeping back cylinders marginally warmer than front.
Homework:
-Get scv test done and pass on results
-Get current dx report
-Stalk Greasytshirt, find out Virgina shop location, this man needs some free lunches. So much information and assistance freely given. Saved people lots of money, downtime, parts, headaches and headache relief.
- Status