Service a new truck?

Doggie Daddy

Veteran Expediter
I just recently bought a new, never been titled 2000 FL70.This truck has only 1600 miles on it, but i see by the sticker on the door jamb that it was built in june of 1999. Would it be a good idea to change the oil and filters on this truck before taking it out on the road? I believe that this is still the original oil and filters from the factory.
 

RichM

Veteran Expediter
Charter Member
Oil does not deteriorate with age,look at how long it!s been in the ground.But it would be a good idea to run it for about 5000 miles then get your first PM,also the filters should be ok. It is also a good idea to purchase and carry along with you a complete set of spare filters and a filter wrench plus a small quanity of fuel in a container in case you get some contaimented fuel on the road. Good Luck,don!t believe all the negative comments about the FL 70.If you are good to it,it will be good to you.
 

Weave

Veteran Expediter
Charter Member
I agree with Rich, my '95 FL70 had 650k on it when I traded and it was still running quite well. And that was off a Cummins B 5.9 230 HP. They do get the job done. If the oil looks clean on the stick, run the new engine for a bit, but it's never a bad investment to change it if you feel unsure. If you have a CAT 3126, I do recommend frequent oil changes and would add Howes or STP oil treatment after the change. These addatives cut back on sulphuric acid that builds up in the oil between changes. Don't bother with synthetic oil, just change every 10k miles and add STP to be safe with the smaller diesels. I am even using a bit of STP in my 12.7 Detroit.
-Weave-
 

RichM

Veteran Expediter
Charter Member
To add to my previous post I would be concerned about the fuel that has been sitting in the tanks and lines for some time. It would probably be a good idea to load up on a fuel system additive for a while to clean out the lines and filters. I use Howe!s Meaner Cleaner religiously and get an extra 1 MPG with it. Power Service or some of the other products sold in the Truck Stops will also work.
 

Weave

Veteran Expediter
Charter Member
Carry with you a spare secondary filter too. It's the one that will clog.
I used a Webb 525 fuel heater/dryer on my old FL70, and will add this system to my new truck (from the south and just has a can primary fuel filter with no water remover). To make diesel injectors and pumps last, you gotta get the water out of the fuel. Most of the water develops from condensate in your own truck's fuel tank(s).
How many of you remember when GM came out with auto diesels in the late 70's? Roosa Master fuel pumps with no water removal on a stock GM gas 350. What a nightmare!
Hey, the same rules apply here. Clean oil. Clean, water free fuel. A cooling system that is working right. A diesel that's built right to begin with. You can go like crazy and even beat the thing a bit and not have to worry!
-Weave-
 

RichM

Veteran Expediter
Charter Member
To add the nightmare that was GM Auto Dieesels in the 80!s,a friend of mine was a GM Tech rep in that era for the SouthEast. The engines were breaking crankshafts at 20,000 miles and no one could figure out why. This was back in the days of 12,000 mile warraties and people that bought big Buicks and Oldsmobiles were not happy about buying new engines.One day he was at a dealer in Waycross GA and there were 3 Buicks in with broken crankshafts. The Dealer was livid and was threatining all kinds of legal action etc. In looking at the cars he finally saw something in common.They all had a trailer hitch on the rear bumper. The dealer called the owners and they all said they towed boats and trailers. He checked with other dealers and other tech reps and that was the one common thing that all of the blown engines had.
So they figured out in that since GM has always had that real soft GM ride that the weight of the towed unit was pulling the rear of the car way down allowing the front to go up,so not enough oil was flowing to the front of the block,thus resulting in a broken crankshaft while under heavy loads.
Interesting thing is that the tech reps reported this to GM in Detroit,reccommened either no towing or a towing package with stiffer shocks in the rear. The Corporate GM folks took their usual arrogant stance and refused to alter the ride or rule out towing. The Dealers finally were telling customers not too tow anything if you had a diesel engine which POED GM but the dealer wants repeat business. If I recall right that engine was the basic 350 block strengthened to and modified to be a diesel.. This guy quit GM in the late eighties as he could no longer take the mentality that went on in Detroit.But I think they learned their lesson and now seem to be building some good products.
 
G

guest

Guest
Then there was the problem of head gaskets the didn't last.. I used to be a mechanic and I saw a lot of them. I owned two Olds' myself and did gaskets on both of 'em. I could never see their logic in the 22.5:1 compression ratio when larger engines were less than 18:1.

If you consider that back then, Detroit Diesel was still part of GM, they had access to better technology, beside they also were working with Isuzu as well.
 
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