Humming Noise???

teacel

Veteran Expediter
Charter Member
OK!!! Here is what happened. The week we had the big snow, I was sinning the wheels 2 or 3 times because of poor traction. One of those times I spun the wheels I had a 1600lb load on but did come out of it. Since this I put another 3000 miles on the van. It is a Chevy 3500 Ext. cargo van with a 5.7 (350). !0 days or so after that trip I smelt rear-end grease when standing in the back of the van. A gear-head buddy told me it was an axle seal or the pinion seal leaking. I didn’t do anything then. About a week later I was driving down the road doing about 65mph, and I heard a bang come from the back of the van. Only had about 500lbs on at the time. Stopped looked around, and took off again. When I got to 65 I took my foot off the gas and I would hear a humming. If I gave it gas it would quit. Was close to Youngstown so I had a shop check it and the guy told me the rear-end was empty. He filled it and wished me luck, for he didn’t have time to do anything else, but did tell me the pinion gear may be bad. I ran another 100 miles or so. I went to Erie Pa then to Mentor Ohio. About then I started to hear a grinding of metal on metal. I found a shop to work on the van. He tore it apart and sure as (you know what) I needed a new front pinion gear. It was shot. He replaced it. Told me the middle and rear gears looked and felt okay. There was still a humming noise, after he replaced the front gear. He said it may be one of the other gears, but those would be very costly to replace (shims and balancing and all that other good stuff). I ask if it could be the drive shaft, and he said that seamed to be okay. He did also replace the pinion seal, and dust cover. Time run short and I didn’t want to loose any time. He told me it should be okay to run the van, so I did. Now I have this humming noise driving me crazy and making me very nervous.

MARK! and anyone else that may have an answer or a suggestion. My questions are: When I drive the van and apply gas I don’t hear anything. When I use cruse control, I still don’t hear the humming noise. If I take my foot off the gas to coast or to apply the brake I hear the humming. If I am coasting and apply the gas I will sometimes hear a clunk, then nothing, until I start to coast again. Sometimes when I shift from park to drive and apply gas I will hear it clunk. Is it the U joints? I priced the new U joints and they will cost $115.00 just for the parts. Do I need to start looking for a rear axle, so I can replace mine? I may be able to get a used one with 10K for about $650.00. If I have a gear-head replace or rebuild the rear-end it will cost about $1200.00, or maybe more.
 

D Green

Expert Expediter
From my experience with Chevy C3500 p/u's, it sounds as if you may have two problems.

The clunking, when putting into gear, sounds like loose u-joints. BUT, if the mechanic that replaced the pinion gear (only the pinion? no ring gear?) did not get it set correctly (depth of the teeth into the ring gear) it will clunk from the resulting slack, if set too loosely.

The hummimg you spoke of, is usually common if a rear has been run too low on oil. All the gears/bearings get rough or galled spots on them that are impossible to see with the naked eye, & even when filled with oil, will "sing" to you as you drive. Never had a rear-end fail on me from this problem, as long as oil level is maintained. A pint or so of Lucas Oil will help, as will a 100watt amplifier for the stereo. ;-)

Dennis
 

Weave

Veteran Expediter
Charter Member
If you have clunking when shifting from park to reverse and vice versa while stopped the U-Joints are probably bad. Even if worn out a little they don't usually make noise when the vehicle is moving.
What happened when the rear end was ran dry everything in it started wearing very quickly, and although only the pinion gear all-out failed, the other parts of the differential suffered a lot too. I agree with D Green in this case completely- try putting Lucas in it, it will more than likely quiet it down, and you should get some additional life out of it before having to rebuild or replace it- just run it till it drops!
-Weave-
 

OntarioVanMan

Retired Expediter
Owner/Operator
Couldn't those gears be taken out and be sanded ever so lightly to take out the rough spots? If that were the problem.

I once had a steering pump ripping out seals because the gear had burrs from high miles dealer said I needed a new one said it was UNFIXABLE Went to my fav wrecking yard to get a used one and they knew a guy who would take the box apart and take off the burrs for a fraction of the price AND guess what it WORKED!!

Also I once broke the rear yoke of the drive shaft everyone said I needed a new one a good friend of mine was a licensed arc welder and in his garage took about 3 hours and 6 beers he welded it ever so carefully we installed the universal and drove it another 100,000 k's!
The welding procedure was like a surgeon at work.
 

teacel

Veteran Expediter
Charter Member
Thanks for the replies to the post. I guess by best bet is to replace the U-joints and hope for the best. I will also add some Lucas.

I did do a search for a used rear axle assemble with housing at car-part.com. It asks me if I need the one = 3500 series SRW or = 3500 series DRW.

I don’t know what the SRW, or the DRW stand for so I did a search on the both of them. The SRW is $650, and the DRW is $1250. Why is there so big a price difference in the “SRW” and the “DRW”

Can someone please tell me what those letters stand for? And do you know off the top of your head which one I will need, or will the VIN # reveal that info?

I will take your advice and run it till it don’t ran no more, but want to know where I can get a replacement when the time comes.
 

pellgrn

Expert Expediter
Should be a metal tag on the differental, the numbers on the tag should reveal which one you have.
 

teacel

Veteran Expediter
Charter Member
That makes sense! If that is what it means. Thanks OVM. You too pelle, in fact! thank you all for your help.

This raises another question. If I’m replacing the entire axle, swapping one for the other. I have the brake lines, park brake cable, and the drive shaft that gets connected, maybe some wires?

Does it matter if I put a single wheel drive, or a dual wheel drive in its place? Say I have a dual wheel drive axle on the van now, can I replace it with a single wheel drive axle?

I could see maybe not putting a single wheel drive in place of a dual, but would it really matter if I go from a dual to a single?

What is the difference between the 2?
 

D Green

Expert Expediter
The difference between the two rears will be the over-all width. The axle designed for dual wheels will be narrower by a few inches.

Chevy used some Dana axles in the heavy vans/pu's. Dana rears had a dual outer wheel bearing set-up. The center "cap" protruded thru the wheel, & axle removal was accomplished by removing the eight nuts in the center. GM axles hubs are flat faced, single outer wheel bearing, look like a 1/2t axle, except for the eight lug nuts.

Be sure your gear axle ratio is the same. Quick eyeball test, turn the wheel/drum one single turn, while counting the number of complete turns the yoke does. If nearly four turns, = 373, slightly more than four turns,= 410

It's a pain to find a shop that can recalibrate the speedometer, not to mention that the computer controlled tranny will shift a little differently, with a different ratio axle.
 

teacel

Veteran Expediter
Charter Member
Dave if you are still on line can you please give me a call. I will send you a private message with my 800 # . Thanks. I was just under the van and I don’t think the U joint is bad. There is some play coming from the yolk coming out of the rear-end. I don’t think the guy that replaced the pinion bearing did it properly. If you can give me a call I’ll be home for the next 2 or 3 hours.
Look for the private message!
 

teacel

Veteran Expediter
Charter Member
You guys may want to kill me after all this help you gave me, But I really screwed up. The mechanic replaced the front pinion bearing, not the gear. He said to replace the gears would be a big job and he couldn’t do it. The bearing was all chewed up not the gear. SORRY - SORRY - SORRY!!!!!!!!!!

Anyway I just checked the U joints and they are real tight. However there is some play in the drive shaft. When I put the van in gear and get under it I can move the drive shaft about 1/8 of an inch before it will catch. Is that normal? Seams like the yolk in the rear-end has too much play in it, but then what do I know?

All the other info in my post is correct. The humming, and the clunk.

If you can find it in your hearts to forgive me for being such a dummy and after you bust a gut from laughing at me, does this change any of the advice you all gave me? If it does can you or would you inform me of the info I now need?
 

pellgrn

Expert Expediter
Hey Teasel don't sweat it,for what it's worth i hand a ford van with a dana rear end that started whinning during acceleration and stopped or lessened while at a steady speed, put 300,000 on it that way and may still be going.
 

D Green

Expert Expediter
Tony..may have missed ya, sent PM

Check the u=joints with the van in neutral, WHEELS CHOCKED. (I had a good friend killed a few years ago, by his truck rolling back over him as he was checking underneath. It does happen)

With the van in neutral, you will be able to move the shaft both directions to check for loose joints.

Pinion bearing? ;-) makes a difference. As long as the mechanic removed the rear cover & cleaned out the shavings, added new seal, gasket & oil, even with the humming, you should be ok. But, do try the Lucas, and ask the service man to check the differential at oil changes. I've never had them charge me.

Dennis
 

Weave

Veteran Expediter
Charter Member
The Lucas will probably get rid of the gear whirring/humming noise, and keep further wear from occuring. I'd just take these other guys advice and run it until it is completely shot, as might just last the rest of the life of the van-- not broken, don't fix it:)
-Weave-
 
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