Ill try to have the valve set up and reassembly up soon
Bob Wolf.
CHUNK 2
For most parts cleaning I like lacquer thinner because it dries without a residue. most decent middle quality carburetor and brake cleaners are lacquer thinner. Save a few bucks and buy a gallon.
Bench cleaning the injector is pretty straightforward you don’t take the injector apart you are simply replacing the external O rings, visible carbon from the tip and crud from the body and seal surfaces.
If you have recently replaced any injectors, cash flow wont allow you to replace all of them at once and they pass a proper diagnosis, you can have them professionally cleaned at a diesel shop or if in excellent condition and are reasonably clean you can do a quick clean up and reseal yourself. In a pinch and if luck is in your favor you might be bale to get another few thousand miles on the old tired injectors by cleaning them. However you might also waste twenty bucks on seals and they don’t work or die tomorrow. Bottom line, it’s a craps shot. Yes, its better to replace them all at once and some vendors wont warrantee the replacements if you do a partial replacement. I have heard you can shim a weak injector and rebuild them yourself but to obtain the tools and internal parts is almost impossible. Add in the parts cost, time to rebuild, lack of a flow bench, and other tools, as expensive as they are its worth buying a remaned unit.
IMPORTANT This is not a rush job light hands are required. If you damage the Solenoid, body, nozzle or tip you can ruin the injector. Also keep a clean area for the injector as it is a lubricated close tolerance part. Have a padded box or suitable container with bubble wrap to avoid breakage.
Injector Cleanup and EXTERNAL seal replacement
I use Liqui Molly Diesel Purge to do a flush every 25,000 miles or when I change the fuel filter. I also used it in the bench cleaning.
PAY ATTENTION LIFE / SAFETY WARNING.
MAKE SURE YOU USE THIS CLEANER OUTSIDE AND WITH PLENTY OF VENTALATION LIQUI MOLLY IS VERRY FLAMABLE AND VOLITILE. WEAR NITRILE GLOVES.
13. First remove the rubber Q rings and metal seal on the body with a small awl or pick set. Be careful not to scratch the oil and fuel galleries or drop the injector as you will have diesel and oil weeping out of the injector making it slick. I recommend laying the seals out in the order they came off the injector or photograph it so you reinstall them correctly.
14. First you use a razor knife to CAREFULLY scrape the carbon off the injector tip. Be careful so you don’t gouge the nozzle or tip it will help to soak the injector tip in cleaner before scraping. Next use a blue Scotch Brite to clean any remaining crud from the tip.
15. use a razor knife to remove the chamber seal start by scraping between the seal and injector body and then GENTLY pry the seal off be careful not to gouge the nozzle or tip. Note what material the chamber seal is. It will be either copper or stainless steel. Always replace this seal and make sure you use the same material or they wont seal right, and you will be redoing the job.
16. Use a magnifier a razor blade and pick set to knock loose any visible carbon do not force any tool into the between the tip and body, just gently scrape what you can and polish the body, tip and with a blue scotch brite.
17. Apply a thin coat of Marvel or gun oil to the tip and slide the new chamber seal onto the injector until it contacts the injector body. Its going to drag a little but if it feels like its sticking remove the seal and make sure the tip is clean or you can damage the tip or plug the injector. Make sure the seal bottoms out on the injector.
BAFORE INSTALLING THE INJECTORS BRING EACH CYLINDER TO T.D.C. AND CHECK FOR FUEL AND OIL BY CAREFULY PLACING A SCRWEDRIVER INTO EACH CYLINDER YOUR FAILURE TO DO SO WILL RESULT IN YOU DESROYING YOUR ENGINE.You wont get every last drop out you want to almost all of the raw fuel and oil out.
I recommend adjusting your valve lash before installing the injectors as its easier to manually turn over the engine and determine Top Dead Center.
Valve adjustment procedure is the same regardless of injectors being removed or installed.
Check with the dealership or injector vendor to confirm the proper torque for your new injectors.
Injector Install.
18. Apply a thin coat of marvel or gun oil to the injector body and o rings you only want enough so the O rings don’t snag and tear as you tighten them down.
19. Line up the injector with the connector the connector facing the rear DT466E or the direction the originals faced line up the bolt holes in the head with the bolt holes in the injector hold down bracket. And with firm steady downward HAND pressure set the injector into the cup and the nozzle/tip into the cylinder. The injector will still stick out make sure you have the injector positioned correctly as removing may damage the o rings.
20. Install the hold down screws in their correct locations and use the hold down bolts to press the injector into the cup by alternating between the two bolts ½ turn at a time so you don’t **** the injector when you feel resistance get out the inch pound torque wrench Torque the injectors to 70 INCH POUNDS
I prefer to add ¼ turn to any fastener I torque unless I’m told otherwise.
21. If you plan to reuse the old internal injector wire harness clean it and check each wire for continuity on the terminals from injector plug to connector that passes through the valve cover. If it doesn’t zero out or shows any resistance replace it. Make sure you move the wires and connectors to make sure you don’t have a hidden break in the wires.
NOTE The “new style” is actually a comeback from the 1994 1999 injector harness Alliant power 634364 available at AP distributors. In late 2009 Navistar converted to the metal rail due to breakage of the plastic clips this part also covers the HT 530 and engines. Oil deflectors are also integrated into this design and eliminates breakage the need to remove the harness assembly when servicing the injectors.
Dealer cost around $350.00 - $400.00 D/W Diesel 250.00 What’s the difference between them you ask? The box.
Alliant makes them for everyone.
Valve Timing.
OK, First a quick basic understanding of how an engine works, and what and why valve adjustment are needed.
All cars and trucks have a 4 stroke engine. 1 Intake, 2 Compression 3 Power 4 Exhaust.
T.D.C. Top Dead Center the highest the piston will travel in the cylinder bore. There are 2 TDC positions compression , and exhaust stroke., I will leave TDC as is to keep things simple.
B.D.C. Bottom Dead Center the lowest the piston will travel in the cylinder bore. There are 2 BDC positions 1 at the end of the intake starting the compression and end of the power stroke, starting the exhaust stroke
Intake stroke. The intake valve opens the piston travels down into the block drawing in air and fuel mixture in a gasoline engine. In a newer diesel this should be only air. The piston reaches BDC intake valve closes completing the intake stroke both intake and exhaust valves are closed.
Compression. The piston moves up to the head compressing the air fuel mixture, this results in heat and high pressure.
Both valves still closed.
Power. At TDC compression a gasoline engine uses a spark to ignite the air fuel mixture a diesel dose not compression values are high enough to spontaneously combust. The air fuel mixture ignites forcing the piston down into the block.
Both valves still closed.
Exhaust. the piston again moves upward, the exhaust valve opens and exhaust is expelled. When the piston reaches TDC the process begins again starting with Intake.
Yes the actual timing of valve and ignition in real world differs slightly and nothing would happen without a crank shaft and cam shaft but Im trying to keep it simple. Try and do keep it simple are two different things.
Now, the valve springs do two main jobs. They keep the valves in the head and seal the valves to the seats maintaining compression. Too much gaping at the rocker you starve and/ or suffocate the engine valves too tight results in power loss, poor mileage. Too little gapping you risk, cam shaft, lifter wear and possibly deforming the valves also a collision between the valve and piston. Any out of spec valve lash or premature valve, keeper, and spring wear, and failure and the engine swallowing the valve.
PAY ATTENTION
Piston collision and swallowing a valve will destroy the engine. Please consider this as a warning Any questions of skill take this to a shop.
Bob Wolf.
CHUNK 2
For most parts cleaning I like lacquer thinner because it dries without a residue. most decent middle quality carburetor and brake cleaners are lacquer thinner. Save a few bucks and buy a gallon.
Bench cleaning the injector is pretty straightforward you don’t take the injector apart you are simply replacing the external O rings, visible carbon from the tip and crud from the body and seal surfaces.
If you have recently replaced any injectors, cash flow wont allow you to replace all of them at once and they pass a proper diagnosis, you can have them professionally cleaned at a diesel shop or if in excellent condition and are reasonably clean you can do a quick clean up and reseal yourself. In a pinch and if luck is in your favor you might be bale to get another few thousand miles on the old tired injectors by cleaning them. However you might also waste twenty bucks on seals and they don’t work or die tomorrow. Bottom line, it’s a craps shot. Yes, its better to replace them all at once and some vendors wont warrantee the replacements if you do a partial replacement. I have heard you can shim a weak injector and rebuild them yourself but to obtain the tools and internal parts is almost impossible. Add in the parts cost, time to rebuild, lack of a flow bench, and other tools, as expensive as they are its worth buying a remaned unit.
IMPORTANT This is not a rush job light hands are required. If you damage the Solenoid, body, nozzle or tip you can ruin the injector. Also keep a clean area for the injector as it is a lubricated close tolerance part. Have a padded box or suitable container with bubble wrap to avoid breakage.
Injector Cleanup and EXTERNAL seal replacement
I use Liqui Molly Diesel Purge to do a flush every 25,000 miles or when I change the fuel filter. I also used it in the bench cleaning.
PAY ATTENTION LIFE / SAFETY WARNING.
MAKE SURE YOU USE THIS CLEANER OUTSIDE AND WITH PLENTY OF VENTALATION LIQUI MOLLY IS VERRY FLAMABLE AND VOLITILE. WEAR NITRILE GLOVES.
13. First remove the rubber Q rings and metal seal on the body with a small awl or pick set. Be careful not to scratch the oil and fuel galleries or drop the injector as you will have diesel and oil weeping out of the injector making it slick. I recommend laying the seals out in the order they came off the injector or photograph it so you reinstall them correctly.
14. First you use a razor knife to CAREFULLY scrape the carbon off the injector tip. Be careful so you don’t gouge the nozzle or tip it will help to soak the injector tip in cleaner before scraping. Next use a blue Scotch Brite to clean any remaining crud from the tip.
15. use a razor knife to remove the chamber seal start by scraping between the seal and injector body and then GENTLY pry the seal off be careful not to gouge the nozzle or tip. Note what material the chamber seal is. It will be either copper or stainless steel. Always replace this seal and make sure you use the same material or they wont seal right, and you will be redoing the job.
16. Use a magnifier a razor blade and pick set to knock loose any visible carbon do not force any tool into the between the tip and body, just gently scrape what you can and polish the body, tip and with a blue scotch brite.
17. Apply a thin coat of Marvel or gun oil to the tip and slide the new chamber seal onto the injector until it contacts the injector body. Its going to drag a little but if it feels like its sticking remove the seal and make sure the tip is clean or you can damage the tip or plug the injector. Make sure the seal bottoms out on the injector.
BAFORE INSTALLING THE INJECTORS BRING EACH CYLINDER TO T.D.C. AND CHECK FOR FUEL AND OIL BY CAREFULY PLACING A SCRWEDRIVER INTO EACH CYLINDER YOUR FAILURE TO DO SO WILL RESULT IN YOU DESROYING YOUR ENGINE.You wont get every last drop out you want to almost all of the raw fuel and oil out.
I recommend adjusting your valve lash before installing the injectors as its easier to manually turn over the engine and determine Top Dead Center.
Valve adjustment procedure is the same regardless of injectors being removed or installed.
Check with the dealership or injector vendor to confirm the proper torque for your new injectors.
Injector Install.
18. Apply a thin coat of marvel or gun oil to the injector body and o rings you only want enough so the O rings don’t snag and tear as you tighten them down.
19. Line up the injector with the connector the connector facing the rear DT466E or the direction the originals faced line up the bolt holes in the head with the bolt holes in the injector hold down bracket. And with firm steady downward HAND pressure set the injector into the cup and the nozzle/tip into the cylinder. The injector will still stick out make sure you have the injector positioned correctly as removing may damage the o rings.
20. Install the hold down screws in their correct locations and use the hold down bolts to press the injector into the cup by alternating between the two bolts ½ turn at a time so you don’t **** the injector when you feel resistance get out the inch pound torque wrench Torque the injectors to 70 INCH POUNDS
I prefer to add ¼ turn to any fastener I torque unless I’m told otherwise.
21. If you plan to reuse the old internal injector wire harness clean it and check each wire for continuity on the terminals from injector plug to connector that passes through the valve cover. If it doesn’t zero out or shows any resistance replace it. Make sure you move the wires and connectors to make sure you don’t have a hidden break in the wires.
NOTE The “new style” is actually a comeback from the 1994 1999 injector harness Alliant power 634364 available at AP distributors. In late 2009 Navistar converted to the metal rail due to breakage of the plastic clips this part also covers the HT 530 and engines. Oil deflectors are also integrated into this design and eliminates breakage the need to remove the harness assembly when servicing the injectors.
Dealer cost around $350.00 - $400.00 D/W Diesel 250.00 What’s the difference between them you ask? The box.
Alliant makes them for everyone.
Valve Timing.
OK, First a quick basic understanding of how an engine works, and what and why valve adjustment are needed.
All cars and trucks have a 4 stroke engine. 1 Intake, 2 Compression 3 Power 4 Exhaust.
T.D.C. Top Dead Center the highest the piston will travel in the cylinder bore. There are 2 TDC positions compression , and exhaust stroke., I will leave TDC as is to keep things simple.
B.D.C. Bottom Dead Center the lowest the piston will travel in the cylinder bore. There are 2 BDC positions 1 at the end of the intake starting the compression and end of the power stroke, starting the exhaust stroke
Intake stroke. The intake valve opens the piston travels down into the block drawing in air and fuel mixture in a gasoline engine. In a newer diesel this should be only air. The piston reaches BDC intake valve closes completing the intake stroke both intake and exhaust valves are closed.
Compression. The piston moves up to the head compressing the air fuel mixture, this results in heat and high pressure.
Both valves still closed.
Power. At TDC compression a gasoline engine uses a spark to ignite the air fuel mixture a diesel dose not compression values are high enough to spontaneously combust. The air fuel mixture ignites forcing the piston down into the block.
Both valves still closed.
Exhaust. the piston again moves upward, the exhaust valve opens and exhaust is expelled. When the piston reaches TDC the process begins again starting with Intake.
Yes the actual timing of valve and ignition in real world differs slightly and nothing would happen without a crank shaft and cam shaft but Im trying to keep it simple. Try and do keep it simple are two different things.
Now, the valve springs do two main jobs. They keep the valves in the head and seal the valves to the seats maintaining compression. Too much gaping at the rocker you starve and/ or suffocate the engine valves too tight results in power loss, poor mileage. Too little gapping you risk, cam shaft, lifter wear and possibly deforming the valves also a collision between the valve and piston. Any out of spec valve lash or premature valve, keeper, and spring wear, and failure and the engine swallowing the valve.
PAY ATTENTION
Piston collision and swallowing a valve will destroy the engine. Please consider this as a warning Any questions of skill take this to a shop.