What's underneath a van that can be damaged, and where?

[AMonger]

When my owner put this van on the road, the carrier installed plywood in the cargo area, as you might expect. He told us it would probably last a few months before we'd have to put a different sheet in. Well, it lasted over a year, about 16 months, actually, and just got ripped out today when a slat from a skid hooked it as it was being pulled out.

So for the new piece, I'm thinking, to combat that, why not get a bigger piece of plywood, one that runs all the way up to the seats? Heck, it would give better noise and temperature insulation than the 8-footer, too, and provide a better platform for my air mattress so they don't pop as often.

But when the original piece was screwed down, I was kind of wincing, thinking he was going to go through an electrical line and I wouldn't have tail lights, or through a sensor, or fuel line or whatever. So what's under the cargo area in a Chevy 3500 extended that you would want to avoid, and where?

When my owner installed the fire extinguisher and screwed it into the floor next to the driver's seat, he screwed it into a wire that controls a switch to the door locks, so until I figured out what was happening and took it out, I'd be awakened by the doors unlocking on their own. I'd re-lock them and lie down again, only to have the doors unlock again somewhere between 10 seconds and 10 minutes later. So I know there are wires under there in various places.

 

[Brisco]

In all honesty, this is an "Odd" concern.

Just climb up underneath the van a look at what's underneath the floor directly where you want to drill the holes at. You may be thinking "is there a space between what you see above "In" the van and what's "outside" the van when you're underneath it, and the answer is No, there's not. There is no hollowed out spaces where wiring is ran.

So, just climb underneath it and judge for yourself where you can and cannot drill new holes to bolt the new plywood down at.

Just a hint also, as you're underneath the van attaching the bolts to the nuts, use some strong water proof industrial sealent caulking and cover the before you push the bolt through, cover the bolt once it's through and before you screw the nut on. Then once it's all good and tightened up down there, go ahead and seal it again for good measure.

 

[Brisco]

And, I find it odd that wiring in the floor next to the front drivers seat had anything to do with what you described above. Most of the wiring for all the door controls (power locks-windows-heated mirrors) goes through the front of the door up there where the hinges are.

Sure you didn't have the remote in your pocket when you went to bed that night and every time you rolled over that was what kept locking and unlocking the doors???

 

[Dakota]

Just don't drill a hole in the fuel tank

 

[chefdennis]

Not sure what yr your van is or if it even makes a difference, but my 05 GMC had the main wiring harness for the rear of the van running overhead along the lt side wall at the ceiling in a black plastic conduit...

Your own hit that wire because the harness goes down to the floor and under the seat to the 2nd fuse box.

The only thing you need to be concerned with is using screws that might be too long and hit the gas tank, but the chances of that are pretty slim also....one thing to keep in mind..all of those old holes, they will need to be sealed with a silicone sealant..or you WILL get water in the van as you drive down the highway in the rain....

As for finding a 12 ft piece of plywood, I think you will find that that wll need to be a special order...I used 1 8ft piece and another piece that was close to 4 ft....

 

[Turtle]

I've had the same piece of plywood on my deck for 5 years, and from the looks of it it'll outlast the van. I have 9 feet of decking, but 12 feet would be the same, where you put the smaller piece onto the end of the 8 foot piece, and then fill the gap with wood filler and sand it down really well. You want that seam to be, well, seamless and smooth, so nothing can catch on it. Counter-sink the heads self-tapping screws (I used 2½-inch self tapping screws) or the bolts that you use to secure the decking.

Don't have any exposed edges of plywood where a skid our a nail from a skid could catch it, especially on either side or the edge furthest towards the front of the van. If you have to screw in a 2x4 at the front edge of the decking, so be it, but you don't want a skid sliding forward and dropping off the front edge of the deck.

I do have an exposed edge at the rear of the van, and I've had a few skids or forks catch it and rip up small (and one time a large) chunk of plywood. But some regular old Bondo to fill it in, and then sand it down really smooth, works like a charm. I keep the deck coated with two or three coats of Minwax Polycrylic to keep it protected from oil spills and to keep it hard. Once a year I clean the deck with a scrub brush and put down two or three new coats. If I have a gouge where a nail rips the deck, I'll either fill it with wood filler or Bondo and sand it down, or I'll fill it with Polycrylic and let it dry in several coats.

 

[paullud]

As Chefdennis said just don't use really long screws so that you end up poking a hole in the tank, all your wiring and lines run inside the frame rail in the back. On a side note use the 8ft piece up front that way if your plywood gets damaged by a forklift you can just replace the short section.

Posted with my Droid EO Forum App

 

[AMonger]

And, I find it odd that wiring in the floor next to the front drivers seat had anything to do with what you described above. Most of the wiring for all the door controls (power locks-windows-heated mirrors) goes through the front of the door up there where the hinges are.

Sure you didn't have the remote in your pocket when you went to bed that night and every time you rolled over that was what kept locking and unlocking the doors???

Yep. There's no remote. After I figured out what was going on, I could even duplicate the problem by stepping on the the screw-holes left from where the bracket was. I step, and <click>, they'd open.

 

[greg334]

Use one or one and a quarter inch screws and you won't have a problem.

 

[AMonger]

I've had the same piece of plywood on my deck for 5 years, and from the looks of it it'll outlast the van. ... and then fill the gap with wood filler and sand it down really well...
. But some regular old Bondo to fill it in, and then sand it down really smooth, works like a charm. I keep the deck coated with two or three coats of Minwax Polycrylic to keep it protected from oil spills and to keep it hard. Once a year I clean the deck with a scrub brush and put down two or three new coats. If I have a gouge where a nail rips the deck, I'll either fill it with wood filler or Bondo and sand it down, or I'll fill it with Polycrylic and let it dry in several coats.

<chuckle> That sounds like a lot of maintenance for a $4 piece of plywood, or maybe $6 if I have to get another piece to lengthen it. 'Course, got to have something to do while passing the days in Laredo... May as well do that, I suppose.

 

[Turtle]

<chuckle> That sounds like a lot of maintenance for a $4 piece of plywood, or maybe $6 if I have to get another piece to lengthen it. 'Course, got to have something to do while passing the days in Laredo... May as well do that, I suppose.

I suppose it sounds like a lot of maintenance, but it's not. You're supposed to keep the decking clean anyway, free of debris, dirt, oil and oil stains, and spending 15 minutes once a year scrubbing it, and then another 15 or 20 minutes laying down 2-3 coats of Polycrylic makes keeping it clean throughout the year much easier and quicker. Overall, it's far less time and effort to do that than it is to have to rip out the old decking and lay down anew.

In any case, you must let me know where you buy your plywood for $4.

 

[AMonger]

In any case, you must let me know where you buy your plywood for $4.

I don't remember 'zackly how much it was, but I remember it being far less expensive than I thought it was going to be. If it was more than $4, it wasn't much more. And I think it was at Lowe's.

 

[chefdennis]

While not expensive...4x8x 3/8 in good one side plywood will cost from $13-$20 per sheet...at lowes and most any lumber yard...and you want "good one side"....

 

[geo]

that's why love my rollers
always before drilling look and check to make sure you cause more probems