What is killing all my walmart fridges?

henboy1

Expert Expediter
I am on my 4th fridge that I have been buying from either walmart or Lowes in the past 2yrs.All the fridges seem to stop working after about 4-7months.Some of the symptoms are ..........the compressor will kick on and then off again.I am not sure if I am not getting a true sine wave from the output of the inverter when the truck is running or just the constant pounding from driving and vibration.I am also on my second inverter as there was nothing wrong with the first.The current inverter is 3000 watts and which a surg protector is plugged into.The fridge and other accessories is then plugged into the surge protector.I know most would tell me to go buy a $450 RV fridge but there has to be a cure for this.
My protable AC unit works fine and I have had it for 2yrs although that only works off my generator. I still think if the problem was rattling and vibration of any freon components in both, then they should both be deing.
Anyone with any cheap walmart fridge in their truck, and how long has it lasted running off the inverter?
 

greg334

Veteran Expediter
The problem with some of the fridge compressors is simply they can't take voltage swings that these inverters produce. I burned up a few with the low voltage at the input of the inverter. I would start with checking the voltage at the input of the inverter and get a line meter to measure the voltage out of it.

Since I have gone through a few that were given to me and worked well before they went into the truck, I finally gave up and have a custom fridge going into the truck that uses a 12 volt swing compressor so I won't have to worry about it.
 

henboy1

Expert Expediter
The problem with some of the fridge compressors is simply they can't take voltage swings that these inverters produce. I burned up a few with the low voltage at the input of the inverter. I would start with checking the voltage at the input of the inverter and get a line meter to measure the voltage out of it.

Since I have gone through a few that were given to me and worked well before they went into the truck, I finally gave up and have a custom fridge going into the truck that uses a 12 volt swing compressor so I won't have to worry about it.

So Greg, you've gone through the same thing huh?I also noticed, when I start driving, the fridge gets much colder in about 4hrs and when I park for a while, the fridge temp is not as cold.So the output is the problem and not the bumps from the road?.I also bought an AC to Dc converter to it in the cig plug.Even if I checked the Dc input with a meter, I know it will fluctuate since I have a high output alternator on the semi.
Don't they also sell like an AC line regulator for a smoother sine wave output from an inverter?I may just have the fridge run when I park and then unplug at night to prevent running down the battery.
 

greg334

Veteran Expediter
Well the inverter is supposed to stabilize the voltage, maybe Turtle can come in here and tell you how it works. All it is, is a big switching power supply but....

You should check your cables to the inverter first, then look at the voltages.

If you run the thing and the battery goes flat, some of the inverters will actually go into a brown out mode and put out 90 volts which burns up the compressor.
 

guido4475

Not a Member
I had the same setup in my 10-wheeler.I used a fridge from lowes, which I would get a little over 2.5 years out of trouble free. The inverter I used was from the Petro, it was a Sima 3,000 watt continuous, 5,000 watt peak.I ran the fridge off the inverter when I was going down the road, and off the gas generator when I was waiting for a load.No problems, performed perfectly. It is still running, in my garage now, keeping a bunch of Labatts cold.And Klondike bars in the freezer frozen.
 

RLENT

Veteran Expediter
I am not sure if I am not getting a true sine wave from the output of the inverter when the truck is running ...
Are you sure it's actually have a true sign wave inverter ...... and not a square wave ? (or modified square wave or whatever)
 

henboy1

Expert Expediter
the first inverter I had was a 2000watt Vector.The second, I am not sure but it is a 3000watt inverter.Now that I am home I will get a multimeter and test both ends.
 

nobb4u

Expert Expediter
Go to Walmart and buy battery back-up unit will keep A/C current even, cost about $60.00. Also good to use on other sensitive electronic like phones and computers.
 

greg334

Veteran Expediter
Go to Walmart and buy battery back-up unit will keep A/C current even, cost about $60.00. Also good to use on other sensitive electronic like phones and computers.

I've tried that and it quickly eat one of the compressors. I found out that the inverter in that unit is worst than the cheap ones you buy because it can't handle the spike when the compressor starts.
 

brownie4042

Seasoned Expediter
Guys, I think you might reding too much into this problem. I went through 2 Home Depots, and 2 Lowe's (small bar frig. 120 volt), and never had them in a truck or hooked up to an inverter. Most lasted to about 6 months. Only time I every took the extened warrenty's, so painless replacements. I live in very old house with my mother, so when I travel my bedroom can get cold. One theory I heard was these frigs. do not do well in cold weather. Could when your trucks are not use be cold? Just a thought. Or is the real problem just cheap s#$%. not made in the US.

Brownie 4042
 

hz909

Seasoned Expediter
Oh, man...I just put one from Lowe's in my van. Bummer.

I wonder if, maybe, it wouldn't be better to buy a vintage one off of craigslist or eBay? I would have, but I was limited to specific dimensions...makes 'em a little harder to find.
 

RLENT

Veteran Expediter
Oh, man...I just put one from Lowe's in my van. Bummer.
I have a Frigidare from Lowes in mine ..... admittedly I usually don't run it during the hottest summer months (use the battery capacity to run a 12v AC) .... the fridge/freezer is around 2 years old and still works fine .......
 

Turtle

Administrator
Staff member
Retired Expediter
There's a bunch of what-if's here, bunch of unknowns. Is the inverter running off a dedicated house bank, or off the regular truck batteries? How many? Total amp hours? The compressor kicking on and off can be caused by two things, one is low or no refrigerant (freon), the other is low voltage (which over time will kill the compressor). It may be the inverter, as pure sine wave is better for motors, and that particular motor (in those refrigerators) really wants pure sine and not modified sine. If the inverter is a true sine wave inverter, it'll output a true sine wave whether the truck is running or not.

The fact that the fridge runs better (cools quicker, and colder) when driving, then doesn't stay cool when parked, that one screams low voltage. When the truck is running the alternator is supplying plenty of voltage, which the inverter can piggyback off of, but when parked the batteries must hold that 12.2 volt or higher, and it sounds like when the truck is running the batteries are giving he inverter 12.6 or 12.8 volts (maybe more), but when parked the fridge draws the batteries very quickly down to less than 12 volts, which will cause the compressor to run extremely hot and very inefficiently.

This can be bad batteries (or the wrong kind for this type of application), or it can be battery cables that are too small for the load (or too long between the batteries and the inverter). For a 3000 watt inverter (3000 watts divided by 12 volts = 250 amps), the cables between the inverter and the batteries should be 3 feet max, and AWG 2/0 in size. Even if you never use more than 1500 watts, it would still be 125 amps minimum cabling, so it would need to be 3 feet max and #4 AWG cable, but that still be too small for the nearly constant draw the fridge requires. #2 AWG would really be the absolute minimum to keep the cable from getting too hot. Properly crimped cable lugs is also a hot spot, literally, since an improperly crimped lug causes excessive resistance, and thus increased heat, and a voltage drop to the inverter.

FWIW, I have a 3000 watt pure sine wave inverter that needs repair, for a year and a half now. I'll get around to it eventually. In the meantime I'm using a POS Cobra 1500 watt modified sine wave inverter that I know can't be good for the refrigerator's compressor. I've got a house bank that consists of four 125-amp hour "hybrid" marine batteries (essentially the same as "truck" batteries), and have high dollar Cobra Cable Ultra-Flex cables, 2/0 in size, and even higher dollar Panduit cable lugs. I run a MicroFridge Combination Model 4.8MF-7TP (mine is a little older than the new ones with the "Dual Charging Station", which is two electrical outlets on the front of the microwave) and have had it in the van for a little over 3 years. Over these 3 years it's been unplugged and off power for perhaps a month in total. Still works great. Haven't had to change the temperature setting, freezer is till frost-free and it keeps ice cream frozen hard. It is sitting on top of a some carpet with a heavy carpet pad underneath, and it's bolted to the wall. It ain't movin'.

Batteries
IMG_0291.jpg


MicroFridge
IMG_0312.jpg
 

Falligator

Expert Expediter
Anyone got a spare battery?? Anyone?? LOL guess turtle has.....i need to get my van like that but since it's a ford I'll have to suffice
 

Dreammaker

Seasoned Expediter
I've bought several 4.3 cu ft G.E. refrigerator/freezers from Sam's Club. I ran through 4 of them in a year. Was really puzzled about why they kept on dieing. Inverter? Bad refrigerator? Finally, I spent $20.00 for a custom made floor mat to sit my refrigerator on. Since I got the mat, the refrigerator lasted for 4 years. Just died. Got a new one from Sam's. It appears to be doing fine. As the Shelled One mentioned, the fluctuations in battery voltage to the inverter may be a problem. Batterystuff.com has a voltage alarm you can set for any level of voltage. It alerts you audibly and visually when your battery charge drops below the level you set. Might help if you don't have a system which automatically turns your truck or gen set on when the battery charge drops below a certain level.
 
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